Trip Report
Bloody Corner on Mount Russell - Car to Car 14 hours
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Wednesday September 5, 2012 9:55pm
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JSpencerV
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About the Author
JSpencerV is a trad climber from Santa Monica, CA. |
Comments
gonzo chemist
climber
the east coast, for now.
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Climbed it with a good buddy c-to-c a couple years ago. Can't believe it doesn't get done more often. The crux, five-star mega classic dihedral pitch is un-f*#king-real good!
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Gal
Trad climber
going big air to fakie
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wow looks awesome!!! great job-I'd need 3 days for that, ha!
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Matt
Trad climber
it's all turtles, all the way dooowwwwwnn!!!!!
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good stuff fellas!
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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SuperTopo, home of some of the best TR's and pics, and this is no exception.
Much appreciated.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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the money pitch looks like it has a mini stem box finish? sweet!
any chance you've done western front on russell? I'm curious how that money pitch on bloody corner stacks up against the long sustained corner pitch on western front- pitch 5 i think.
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JSpencerV
Trad climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Author's Reply
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Sep 6, 2012 - 02:39am PT
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The crux pitch was awesome. We joked that a good way to train for it would be go to Taquitz and do five laps of El Camino Real.
Snowhazed: I have not done Western Front yet - so I can't compare - but when I climb it, I'll let you know.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
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KICK ASS! Way to get after it...That looks like so much fun.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Those cracks look perfect. Great job to both of you.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Whoa...that looks good! Just put it on my short, short list.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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If this route was somewhere in the Cascades or Bugaboos would be in 50 classics for sure! Another one of those rarely done gems. Thank you for posting!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Holy buckets of Jamz Batman!
Wow, does that look awesome. Who's going to take me up it? Huh?
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Dang, that corner looks good!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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You know there's an easier way up that mountain, right?
But I guess yer way did make for some dramatic photos, aside from the goofy ones. ;-)
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Proof again that we are all, in our own way, just trying to catch up with Al Bartlett.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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thanks for the report. One of the reports you want to climb the thing after reading.
I remember we climbed Mithral Dihedral 2005 - and someone climbed Bloody corner around arete. We did not see them , but hear terrible grunting , song of pain and terror, which scare me from this route for years.
now I want it back
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cowpoke
climber
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Nice! That money pitch looks so sweet!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Beautiful looking corner, thanks!!!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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I hate you (:
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Sep 10, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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...song of pain and terror...
The poetry of climbing. That's a tune I can now sing in my sleep for having sung it so many times.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Sep 10, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
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Man, reading that trip report makes me want to give my kids the awareness of how much cool stuff there is to do in the world so they get out there and taste deeply of it. I'm doing my best on that front.
Cool report, thanks for sharing the life with us!
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mountain dog
Trad climber
over the hills and far away
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Sep 18, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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I really want to climb this.
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