Trip Report
Beneign Peak FA The Cancer
Tuesday November 29, 2011 1:36am
Here's one I did with Kevin Ditzler last January on the West Face of Beneign Peak. We spent a day skiing in and sat around all of the next day, it's a long approach. On the third day we left the base with enough food and fuel for 2 days.

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We third classed a few hundred feet at the start.

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A short bit later it steepened up so we pulled out the ropes. We climbed for maybe 20 hours or so and made a bivi ledge.

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Here's Kevin on the crux.

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I remember not sleeping very long, maybe four hours or so. The next day was the same.

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we topped out in the middle of the night and decended to the saddle seperating Beneign and Bellicose Peaks. We tried to rest for awhile in the saddle but after we made water we were both to cold so we finished the decent making it back to our camp at the base by early/mid morning.

The Cancer took us 48 hours round trip from a camp at the base. It's 3,200 feet long and goes at WI5 M6.

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  Trip Report Views: 1,932
johnkelley
About the Author
johnkelley is a climber from Anchorage Alaska.

Comments
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  Nov 29, 2011 - 01:42am PT
Some winter fun!

Thanks for sharing!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Nov 29, 2011 - 02:37am PT
Great looking route, congrats! Can you draw the line of your climb plzzzz?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Nov 29, 2011 - 03:00am PT
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
  Nov 29, 2011 - 03:10am PT
I'm surprised to see you opening up to the demons of the Taco. Nevermind that, this forum could always use more trip reports.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Nov 29, 2011 - 03:25am PT
Kelsey Gay/prezwoods - go eat a bucket of dicks you pathetic retro bolter
Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Nov 29, 2011 - 09:07am PT
Looks like some serious stuff, and beautiful. To do that with so few hours of daylight each day --- hard core!
YoungGun

climber
North
  Nov 29, 2011 - 09:42am PT
Nice climb. Too bad you're still an as#@&%e.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 29, 2011 - 09:54am PT
Beautiful looking route!

Well done!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Nov 29, 2011 - 10:31am PT
Nice moderate route, to bad John Kelly is such a lame ass, attacking other people on a regular basis. Maybe you need to climb more John, and pound your chest and shoot your mouth off less.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
  Nov 29, 2011 - 10:32am PT
nice photos, rad looking route. Interesting comments though...climbing with Beyer makes more sense to me now...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 29, 2011 - 10:47am PT
Climbing with Beyer? Hater talk?

I guess I didn't keep up with the venom about the sewer highway bolts.
Is that what this is about?

I lived in AK for 30 yrs and Anchorage area for 16 and none of the stuff on the sewer seems worth getting too bent about one way or the other. I guess it's good someone cares.

At least it'll get more attention to your thread John.


Is John the new Pate?


At least he posted up some good climbing stuff.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Nov 29, 2011 - 11:36am PT
Survival - This is the norm in the Alaska climbing scene nowdays. If you put in new lines you're an as#@&%e. If you don't agree with all of the retro bolting that's happened you're an as#@&%e. If you report any of your new lines you're a chest thumping as#@&%e. Being called an as#@&%e by some nonparticipants using a fake name is classic. Being told I need to climb more after putting up 8 grade V and VI lines within the last year is classic.

I like Pates big trout thread, check out my photos, but I'm just an as#@&%e. What would I know?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 29, 2011 - 11:49am PT
Alaskan = opinionated

Climber = opinionated

Alaskan climber = WATCH OUT!!

At least you're climbing. Feel free to keep reporting.

Being called an assh*le around here is no big deal...HA!!

edit: Although I would encourage you to not be one any more than necessary. Personally I get tired of all the hate and name calling, even though I stoop myself from time to time....
climbski2

Mountain climber
The Ocean
  Nov 29, 2011 - 11:55am PT
Screw em. You are not a climber in Ak until a bunch of folks don't like you. It's just a weird community up there. Dosn't seem like it's changed at all. Taco seems similar. Maybe it's just what happens when focused competitive hardcorp folks get around each other

There are not many out there that can do what you are doing. You just keep scoring sweet and serious alpine lines.

Keep the TRs coming. This stuff is great.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Nov 29, 2011 - 12:03pm PT
It's a good thing I moved. I wouldn't have wanted to be associated with
somebody who did impressive routes like this and reported them in a
decidedly understated manner. Just to make ya feel appreciated I'll
call you a name: STUD! There, take that!
Murzerker

climber
Away from Walhalla
  Nov 29, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
Keep these sweet alpine TR's a comin'
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 29, 2011 - 09:23pm PT
John, you are on a fricking roll, thanks for some climbing content!!!

What does the name "the cancer" refer too?

Cancer took my father at age 35, I was 7 years old.
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
  Nov 30, 2011 - 02:43am PT
Comparing the "scene" up here to Supertopo is actually pretty accurate! Although I don't think its as bad as it seems over the net. Then its really just the ones who allow them selves to get roped into an argument that nobody can win.

Being an as#@&%e has nothing to do with putting up new lines, usually it comes from being an as#@&%e.

Theres no insult intended in my previous message John. This forum really could use more trip reports.

My name is Kelsey Gray by the way, Gray like a mix of black and white.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2011 - 02:58am PT
Kelsey Gay / Prezwoods - you can go f*#k yourself!
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
  Nov 30, 2011 - 03:06am PT
Thanks John! I appreciate the compliment. I've been looking forward to having a civilized chat with you for a while and I am really glad to see we could finally make that happen. I'll keep your ideas in mind as I progress forward, it's always better to listen to the advice of others and keep it in mind. So thanks again.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2011 - 04:22am PT
Kelsey Gay - Considering our history anytime you post to any thread of mine it's insulting. Are you really that dumb? Write your own TR bitch. You could do one about slackline bolts or the retro bolts you were so proud of drilling on Crack in the Woods, or how you love to suck cock. I don't care just f*#k off. Leave me alone as#@&%e.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 30, 2011 - 01:40pm PT
Bromance in action. Love to see it.....NOT!
C'mon John, try to keep a civil tongue in your noggin'.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
  Nov 30, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
These boys have something special here. I think its going to work out between them.


It's awesome to see such close relationships forming on the net.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Nov 30, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
Hahaha, this is great. First, guy posts up a sweet alpine report, recieves adoration from the taco. Then he goes on showing us all that no matter what he climbs or how strong he is, he is just a dick waving jerk. Oh and Kelsey, sick photos of the Valley, next time you make it down here I'd be happy to rope up with you. Hahaha, now people are talking about Kelsey on your Trip Report when it should have been all "Oooohhh...Ahhhh you are a badass...Oooooo"
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Nov 30, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
lol, sh#t talking on this site is just plain ol fun aint it! Sounds like if JK wants his balls licked you are ready MT00000!
Zander

climber
  Nov 30, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
Nice. The TR that is.
Z
Prezwoodz

climber
Anchorage
  Nov 30, 2011 - 03:30pm PT
Thanks karod! Next time were down I'll have to give you a call!

hoipolloi - It is something special isn't it? And I shall always treasure it as such!

mt10910 - I think you bring up a good question about trip reports and the posting of routes and information. I think everyone who posts up trip reports is looking for something. Perhaps seeking either acceptance or adoration. I don't think there's anything wrong with either of those things and I think that I post trip reports mainly for acceptance. I love taking photos and writing about climbing. Not as much as I love to climb in itself but its all part of the game for me. When I take pictures I don't always take them for myself, I started taking pictures so that I could share the images with my family and friends so that has carried over to sharing them with other climbers as well. I think that a discussion on Why we post trip reports could be a really good and informative read. I'd love to think it is more then just ego.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Nov 30, 2011 - 04:32pm PT
This thread has turned into a cancer.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Nov 30, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
This thread has it all! Killer climbing. Saucy photos. A true alpine experience and some slander drama. Its apparent these dudes have some history, but the language is so aggro and childish its kind of a turn off. I enjoy witty insults, but this is pretty retarded sounding.

John, I hope you keep shredding in the hills and posting up. I'd love to see youake your insults more thoughtful and less vulgar, its more fun that way for us goodie goodies. Try sarcasm, inuendo or passive aggressiveness. Its sneakier and more potent if you ask me.

Thanks for posting the rad stuff up there.

Over and out.
MNut
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