Hello. My name is David and I am a whore, a google earth whore. I ignore those around me as I glare into the screen of knowledge to find new rock to climb. Many have my addiction.

Me: “Hey Paul. So I was checking out this dome on google earth and I think it will be sweet! I can’t find a name, not sure if ever climbed and only about 1.5 miles in. It looks 500’+ tall.”

I showed Paul a picture I found of the rock from the top of Squaw Dome and sent him google earth snaps.

Paul: “Hell yah. Let’s go for it.”

Plan in motion, leave 07/01 and drive to the Balls, climb Book of Revelation for a warm up and then set out Saturday. As always the waiting to leave on a trip really sucks. I made a few inquiries to people I know may know if there were any routes on it. Reports said it was a broken up piece of rock and nothing went all the way to the top. The stone was called Miller Rock and there was no reported routes. Game On!

Paul picked me up Friday morning and we were out. Before we made the Bass Lake turn off we were set on going straight for Miller Rock in case we needed multiple days to make a route go. We headed in and found after we crossed Cassidy Bridge there was a nice trail.

It took us around the base from left to right. As we worked our way around the dome was indeed broken up into sections.

The good news is the big portion was on the E-SE side. The trail began to head down into trees and topography kept the big portion of rock on the E-SE side hidden from view.

Off the trail we went for some rock hopping and some class 3 bushwhack up to our necks.

Made the base with spirits lifted as we see the face of a nice long piece of granite. We sat to re-fuel and pick a line. Several look appealing and we chose a ramping starting in the middle of the lowest section heading up left toward a book. We rack up and tie into the 60m twin ropes.

I start up easy climbing that soon has my attention as I place a cam before it transitions into a flaky dusty 5.8 face. I end placing 4 bolts for the next 70’. There were some cool quartz nobs and pockets that allowed a good drill stance. I found a ledge and placed a two bolt anchor. Paul came up the 140’ (5.8) and we re-set.

I realized I had just used six bolts on the first pitch and only had 4 more that I had brought. When in doubt………

P2 headed up to a book that had no pro. I got up to a spot where I could clean with my nut tools a place for a nut that seated nicely. Above was a sea of bushes. Moving up was fun with feet high on the right with shoulder on the book. Transitioned onto face and moved out right away from the bushes. I found myself on a series dikes angling up right separated by 5’ between them. The climbing was easy but at 80 or so feet above the nut I place another bolt. I continued up another 80’ and placed a 1 bolt anchor since I was out of rope (5.6R). Paul made quick work of it. His reaction to the one bolt anchor is a classic calm, “Cool.”

P3 was easy 5.4 or less climbing. Went up and found a tri-cam pocket for pro then up to where the book to our left curved right. Place another cam and headed up a white quartz dike/ramp toward the left should of the dome. I found a nice stance and place a 1 bolt anchor. Paul was at the anchor in no time.

P4 continued left and up the ramp to the shoulder. A few strange off balance moves were well protected. At one point I was using an under cling and cleaning it with my finger of the moss I felt. Turns out I was petting a bat….aggressively. Two bats came out greeted by our laughter of it all. I continued up around the corner and found it transitioned to a face. It was the same flaky dusty 5.8 stuff I had on P1 but this had a descent whipper potential below over a ledge. I scratched my way up to a hollow flake for some mental pro. A little further bit further gained me a solid cam. I headed up a head wall to a flake which turned out to be dirty and crappy. I was able to get a small cam in but I didn’t think it would hold. I had a good enough stance so I placed my last bolt.

As soon as I placed my last bolt I stared at it and worried I may have needed that higher up and possibly just made us have to come back to finish the route. I belayed Paul up to me because I was too much of a chicken to head up the .10a’ish move straight up since I could not tell what was above it and if it was just face then I would be stuck, have to down climb and knew I would whip onto the ledge below. Paul came up and liked the spice of it all. Once Paul was there I decided to traverse 15’-20’ on some 5.7 knobs to see what the left corner had to offer. I made the moves easily and was SO stoked to see the top out boulders 30’ up. I headed up and set a natural anchor. Paul followed and came up the direct way. Paul reported the move straight up was a .10a/b move and 5’ to the right would go at 5.9. We called the pitch 5.8+ 180’.

We unracked and scrambled up a couple boulders to the top top. There was a piece of quartz placed in honor of the top which gave a grand view of Balloon, Disappearing, Squaw, 333 (Secret) Domes and many others. OH the amount of rock out there.

The hike out, we headed down the north side of the mountain and met up with the Cassidy Bridge Trail. We realized we cut off about more than ½ a mile and all the bush whacking this way and will be our return approach. We made it back to the truck just as the black set in. Beer never tastes as good as after a day in the hills.

The following morning we split a beer and had tri-tip & egg burritos to celebrate the route. Bats in the Belfry: 5.8+R, 4P 650’ with pro to 3”. FA: David Fries / Paul Amico 07/01/16.

We hiked around and scouted and got into a position on another ridge to get an actual picture of the east face of Miller Rock for a topo. We climbed a few other small things on Sunday and headed down for a must meal and beer at South Gate Brewing in Oakhurst. Hard to beat the adventure.