Trip Report
Bastille Buttress June 2010
Friday June 18, 2010 5:12pm
I've been holding out on posting any Supertopo Trip reports. I've been just a little intimidated by the company here and your exploits. However, I finally feel I've got a worthy route to report on. We did the Beckey Route on Lone Pine Peak's Bastille Buttress yesterday (6/17/2010) and it really is kick ass! I once eavesdropped on a Fred Beckey conversation and heard him say that this route is "the best rock climb in Southern California" Whatever that means, and how he might have overlooked anything at The Needles, is besides the point. The Man's endorsement, plus the outright sex appeal of the feature, had me drooling over this for a while. Now a few pictures and unsolicited beta:

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Reed on the approach. So bored he's sleeping.  Actually, the approach ...
Reed on the approach. So bored he's sleeping. Actually, the approach can be pretty chill. Use the Lewis/Croft beta from Bishop Area Rock climbs, and stay higher than you think.
Credit: jedster
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Reed on pitch 2.  Pitch 1 (simul-climb 300ft, according to Bishop ...
Reed on pitch 2. Pitch 1 (simul-climb 300ft, according to Bishop Area Rock Climbs. We simuled, but I was a bit miffed about being told what to do :-)) is grainy. It gets real good here! And one can't complain about the setting.
Credit: jedster
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Pitch 6 is indeed the money!  Splitter finger crack (200 feet long...
Pitch 6 is indeed the money! Splitter finger crack (200 feet long! When you get to that belay-on-the-dike they tell you to use, skip it, keep going to a little hole) to the sky.
Credit: jedster
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Pitches 7, 8 and 9 are grainy. Up above it gets way splitter again, brah.

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Up high.  Thanks Reed, for starring in this photo essay.  No thanks to...
Up high. Thanks Reed, for starring in this photo essay. No thanks to Reed for fouling up (or missing entirely) all the pictures of me :-).
Credit: jedster
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The descent is ok.  Starts out with full value 4th class scrambling, u...
The descent is ok. Starts out with full value 4th class scrambling, up along the ridge, then bombs down sand, gradually getting easier and easier and less and less brushy. We made it out to the car in full sunlight!
Credit: jedster
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In summary, it's excellent. Every type of climbing: steep face, low angle friction, steep cracks, bolt ladder, a bit of alpine ridganeering. Runout and thought provoking but the hard bits are very well protected. Suitably serious and remote, but doable in a day from a warm bed. Killer views, cell service the entire way.

Stats and info:
-Original grade: V 5.8 A2.
-newest guidebook: IV 10c A0
-15 long pitches.
-1.5-2 hours for the approach.
-7-10 hours on route.
-2-3 hours descent.
-Beta in the Lewis/Croft book is spot on.
-Summitpost page

  Trip Report Views: 5,312
jedster
About the Author
jedster is a climber from Bishop, CA.

Comments
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jun 18, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
Sounds like you must have some suitable adventures leading up to one like this! Let's see some more. Don't be shy!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jun 18, 2010 - 06:53pm PT
Nice work Jedster!

You got a couple beautiful pix there.

Keep it up. Don't worry about this crowd, we just like climbing pictures....
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
  Jun 18, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
Good stuff!
thanks that looks like a great day out

Aloha,
wil
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
  Jun 18, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
Awesome, can't tell you how many times I have stared at that. Might have to jump on it now, thanks for the inspiration
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX
  Jun 18, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
Good on you guys! Looks like an awesome route - been wanting to do it for a while now...
TwistedCrank

climber
Released into general population, Idaho
  Jun 19, 2010 - 03:51pm PT
Great TR. More please.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jun 20, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
MMmmmmm More TR'S. Nice work.
reederfaceguy

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
  Jun 21, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
Sorry about that Jed. I thought I did well by taking that video, but I even messed that up. When we go to the Hulk, things will be different.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 21, 2010 - 06:31pm PT
Pitch 6.

It looks incredible.
jedster

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 30, 2010 - 03:37pm PT

My wife stitched up a little video from the climb. Check it out linked here

Enjoy.
Mungeradomas

Gym climber
Deep State of Philosophical Mind Bending
  Jun 30, 2010 - 03:55pm PT
awesome, thx for posting up
Neil K

climber
  Sep 20, 2010 - 11:32am PT
Excellent route, be ready for heads up slab climbing! Double rack to #2 BD C4 Camalot, one #3; the #4 wasn't necessary.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 30, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
In honor of Donini's thanks thread!

I try and say well done on most TR's, just to encourage people to keep it up.
Climbing AND posting TR's that is.

Anyway, this thread has a couple pix that I just love, plus I have a HUGE soft spot for high and moderate.

Thanks again guys!!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 1, 2010 - 12:02am PT
Awesome Job,
Thanks!
Technogeekery

Trad climber
Sydney, Australia
  Oct 1, 2010 - 01:22am PT
Is 10c slab "moderate"? I guess it depends on who is talking... not in my books :-) Nice climb, great pics, thanks for the TR.
Prod

Trad climber
  Oct 1, 2010 - 09:29am PT
Sweet!
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