Trip Report
Bastille Buttress June 2010
Friday June 18, 2010 5:12pm
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I've been holding out on posting any Supertopo Trip reports. I've been just a little intimidated by the company here and your exploits. However, I finally feel I've got a worthy route to report on. We did the Beckey Route on Lone Pine Peak's Bastille Buttress yesterday (6/17/2010) and it really is kick ass! I once eavesdropped on a Fred Beckey conversation and heard him say that this route is "the best rock climb in Southern California" Whatever that means, and how he might have overlooked anything at The Needles, is besides the point. The Man's endorsement, plus the outright sex appeal of the feature, had me drooling over this for a while. Now a few pictures and unsolicited beta:
Pitches 7, 8 and 9 are grainy. Up above it gets way splitter again, brah.
In summary, it's excellent. Every type of climbing: steep face, low angle friction, steep cracks, bolt ladder, a bit of alpine ridganeering. Runout and thought provoking but the hard bits are very well protected. Suitably serious and remote, but doable in a day from a warm bed. Killer views, cell service the entire way.
Stats and info:
-Original grade: V 5.8 A2.
-newest guidebook: IV 10c A0
-15 long pitches.
-1.5-2 hours for the approach.
-7-10 hours on route.
-2-3 hours descent.
-Beta in the Lewis/Croft book is spot on.
- Summitpost page
jedster
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About the Author jedster is a climber from Bishop, CA. |
Comments
nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jun 18, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
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Sounds like you must have some suitable adventures leading up to one like this! Let's see some more. Don't be shy!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 18, 2010 - 06:53pm PT
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Nice work Jedster!
You got a couple beautiful pix there.
Keep it up. Don't worry about this crowd, we just like climbing pictures....
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Nohea
Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
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Jun 18, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
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Good stuff!
thanks that looks like a great day out
Aloha,
wil
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jun 18, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
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Awesome, can't tell you how many times I have stared at that. Might have to jump on it now, thanks for the inspiration
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jfailing
Trad climber
PDX
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Jun 18, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
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Good on you guys! Looks like an awesome route - been wanting to do it for a while now...
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Jun 19, 2010 - 03:51pm PT
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Great TR. More please.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Jun 20, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
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MMmmmmm More TR'S. Nice work.
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reederfaceguy
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 21, 2010 - 06:26pm PT
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Sorry about that Jed. I thought I did well by taking that video, but I even messed that up. When we go to the Hulk, things will be different.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 21, 2010 - 06:31pm PT
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Pitch 6.
It looks incredible.
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jedster
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 30, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
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My wife stitched up a little video from the climb. Check it out linked here
Enjoy.
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Mungeradomas
Gym climber
Deep State of Philosophical Mind Bending
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Jun 30, 2010 - 03:55pm PT
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awesome, thx for posting up
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Neil K
climber
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Sep 20, 2010 - 11:32am PT
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Excellent route, be ready for heads up slab climbing! Double rack to #2 BD C4 Camalot, one #3; the #4 wasn't necessary.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 30, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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In honor of Donini's thanks thread!
I try and say well done on most TR's, just to encourage people to keep it up.
Climbing AND posting TR's that is.
Anyway, this thread has a couple pix that I just love, plus I have a HUGE soft spot for high and moderate.
Thanks again guys!!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Awesome Job,
Thanks!
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Technogeekery
Trad climber
Sydney, Australia
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Is 10c slab "moderate"? I guess it depends on who is talking... not in my books :-) Nice climb, great pics, thanks for the TR.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sweet!
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