Thursday we attempted to get a day-of-issue permit to enter Agnew Meadows at the Mammoth ranger station, but settled on Rush Creek instead. It promised to be a long approach .. 10 miles and ~4000' of elevation gain. We were not disappointed on that account either :)
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 Rush Creek trail, Carson Peak in background Credit: rhyang |
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 Justin hiking up the steep trail to Spooky Meadow from Agnew Lake Credit: rhyang |
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We took the PCT to Thousand Island Lake to avoid a reputed deep creek ford at the Garnet Lake outlet. I was pretty beat by the time we got to Garnet Lake.
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 Banner Peak, above Garnet Lake Credit: rhyang |
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We camped off the JMT above the south shore. We knew our approach would be longer in the morning, but oh well. I'd been wearing light mountaineering boots instead of my usual approach footwear, so my feet were a little sore.
Friday morning at 4:30am arrived all too soon. We got moving before dawn and traversed around the lake.
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 Justin on the approach Credit: rhyang |
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Above the lake the snow was runnelled and suncupped, making for a strenuous approach. We aimed for the saddle between Banner and peaklet 11440'. This saddle can also be approached from the Lake Ediza side.
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 Approach was mostly snow above the lake Credit: rhyang |
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 Garnet Lake, from the start of the route (loose chute) Credit: rhyang |
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The chute was loose, as advertised. We made our way up and spied the chimney with a chockstone lodged in it, guarded by a tongue of snow. The fourth class to the right of it was not bad, though I started to curse myself for not wearing my approach boots. Justin had no complaints in his Trangos though.
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 Looking down fourth class section of chute Credit: rhyang |
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We stopped at a decent-looking platform where someone had rigged a bail sling & ring. Looking down the other side we saw some more bail slingage, so we figured we couldn't be that far off. Justin led up the first pitch and we swapped from there.
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 Justin on first pitch Credit: rhyang |
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 Thousand Island Lake, from second pitch Credit: rhyang |
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 Third pitch Credit: rhyang |
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The fourth pitch seemed to have the "crux" traverse. I clipped a Cassin piton (and backed it up with a nut :) and it felt pretty reasonable. The steep climbing above the traverse felt harder, and I felt the weight of the crampons & mountaineering boots in my pack. Hey, I can make excuses with the best of them :)
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 Me on fourth pitch traverse Credit: Justin Marion |
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Did I mention how great the views were ?
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 Clyde Minaret and Cecile Lake, from the route Credit: rhyang |
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 Mt. Ritter, from the route Credit: rhyang |
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There was another traverse around an overhang on a tower, and as luck would have it I got this pitch too.
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 Me on another traverse pitch (#6 I think) Credit: Justin Marion |
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 Looking down pitch 6 Credit: rhyang |
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We continued meandering up, and like bearbnz started to wonder how long this thing actually was ..
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 Looking up pitch 7 (Justin's lead) Credit: rhyang |
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 Looking down pitch 8; Garnet Lake in upper left, Nydiver Lakes in upper right. Credit: rhyang |
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On a big ledge I spied the remains of a rusty old tin can. You know they didn't just bring that for snacks :)
Justin led the ninth pitch, which had some really nice climbing. I was getting quite fatigued at this point, but fortunately there was only a half pitch of easy fifth to the summit. And muchly we rejoiced.
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 Me perusing summit register Credit: Justin Marion |
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 Justin on summit; Mt. Ritter's north face in background Credit: rhyang |
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It was about six-ish, and Justin strapped his headlamp to his helmet, knowing full well what the descent could entail. We made our way down the scree and talus of Banner's SW slope to the Ritter / Banner saddle and made use of our snow gear.
I'd been up the R/B saddle about 7 years ago from the Ediza side and remember it as being kind of steep in places. The top hundred feet or so reinforced that recollection. I'd lamented my choice of footwear for most of the climb, but now I was glad. The lower part was obnoxiously runnelled and suncupped.
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 Me descending Ritter / Banner saddle Credit: Justin Marion |
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 Full moon, and did we ever need it Credit: rhyang |
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Our headlamps switched on around 8:30pm. As we neared the moraine below we contoured northeast along steep snow slopes toward the saddle where we'd started the route. We were both pretty beat. Thank you Moon Goddess for your unearthly light, for we are grateful.
The way back to camp in the dark on alternating snow slopes, talus, slabs, bushes and through the woods was "interesting", to say the least. Generally I bring along a small GPS just for making & navigating to waypoints and otherwise use map & compass, but in this case the device meant the difference between a long walk back to camp and a forced bivy.
Oh yeah, another great time in the mountains :) We turned in after midnight and slept in the next morning. And what an outstanding morning it was.
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 Taking in the beauty of Garnet Lake Credit: rhyang |
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Gear notes:
6 or 7 trad draws (shoulder length) double-length sling 2 cordelettes Wild Country Rocks 1-8 cams from WC zero #5 up to 3.5 tech friend (basically 0.6" - 3") 9.5mm x 60m ropeYeah, I know .. we brought too much :)
