Trip Report
Australia 2 Months!!
Wednesday May 16, 2012 3:56am
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taipan wall
taipan wall
Credit: crazy horse
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Just got back from Australia. Flew out there on the 18th of March and just got back the 14th of May.

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check
check
Credit: crazy horse
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did the sydney thing...headed up to the blue mountains for like 7 days. The first route i did was rope solo 'the eternity' at Mount Piddington, it's 18 which is like 5.9 or 10a. The trigger wires blew when I was 1/2 way up the route. I later put them back together with fishing wire and white tape.

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the eternity
the eternity
Credit: crazy horse
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Did another super classic flake crack it was ~5.8. Really fun and a harder top rope to the right of it.

camping out at night in the free area in the blues.
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the supergenius cooking system.
the supergenius cooking system.
Credit: crazy horse
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cool plants
cool plants
Credit: crazy horse
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awesome climbing
This one was like the crux on top of steck salathe but with jugs and bolts grade 19 so 10a or so.
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Credit: crazy horse
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cool wall way up there
cool wall way up there
Credit: crazy horse
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sweet traverse on bolts
sweet traverse on bolts
Credit: crazy horse
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Decent weather and cool smith rocks style routes. Everything from trad to sport to routes bolted with all carrots which are just ground down machine bolts hammered into a hole with some epoxy back there some of the time. if you forget bolt plates (removeable hangers) you have to throw a nut over the top and cinch it up. Locals call the nut/carrot combo 'scareys'.

headed off to bungonia gorge. Killer limestone bolted routes, no fee camping that includes a communal cooking shelter/barbecue, nice flush toilets, and hot water showers. The most dialed campsite in all of Oz i think.
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Credit: crazy horse
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sweet limestone
sweet limestone
Credit: crazy horse
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lower down is way out in space!! <br/>
lower down is way out in space!!

Credit: crazy horse
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working on doing FA's of freshly bolted routes. A real treat after attempting to get strong in the blues. Lots of hard overhanging routes with ribs, tufas, cauliflowered limestone.

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neil monteith, getting totally rad on his route death starred
neil monteith, getting totally rad on his route death starred
Credit: crazy horse
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Neil got his redpoints!! Yeah bro!!

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was awesome climbing with Lee
was awesome climbing with Lee
Credit: crazy horse
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You can find out about these routes in the australian route register

actually more than a few routes up this mega wall!!
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Credit: crazy horse
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down to mt. buffalo. reminiscent of the needles but less bolts and granier rock.
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climbed some granite up at mt. buffalo.
climbed some granite up at mt. buffalo.
Credit: crazy horse
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picked my buddy Bram up in melbourne and hit up arapalies for easter weekend. it was a mad house, but it was also really rad for meeting up with random cool people, film festival called goatfest, etc

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wheatfields on fire on the way out
wheatfields on fire on the way out
Credit: crazy horse
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Credit: crazy horse
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Credit: crazy horse
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cool climbing.
cool climbing.
Credit: crazy horse
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tons o fun
tons o fun
Credit: crazy horse
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got a fair bit of the pre trip information from chockstone

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totally rad
totally rad
Credit: crazy horse
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really cool climbing
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little solo up the via ferratta
little solo up the via ferratta
Credit: crazy horse
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little chain link up
little chain link up
Credit: crazy horse
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cool bolted routes. This is 'have a good flight' ~12b. You can see whe...
cool bolted routes. This is 'have a good flight' ~12b. You can see where the name comes from if you look at the gap between the bolts
Credit: crazy horse
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grampians
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kangaroos everywhere
kangaroos everywhere
Credit: crazy horse
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hit up the grampians sport climbing
hit up the grampians sport climbing
Credit: crazy horse
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aussie home boy gary on a 19
aussie home boy gary on a 19
Credit: crazy horse
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Credit: crazy horse
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sandinista its supposed to be ~11b but it's pretty sandbagged I would ...
sandinista its supposed to be ~11b but it's pretty sandbagged I would say.
Credit: crazy horse
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cruised to moonarie after that
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bram on downwind of angels at moonarie
bram on downwind of angels at moonarie
Credit: crazy horse
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interesting pro. That's a #3 hb.
interesting pro. That's a #3 hb.
Credit: crazy horse
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casa blanca moonarie
casa blanca moonarie
Credit: crazy horse
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back to grampians
Dance of life...steep face climbing protected with gear on perfect blue/orange stone. The route was either thin crimps or big slopers. The grade went at ~12a.

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rapping off dance of life 24
rapping off dance of life 24
Credit: crazy horse
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and in araps for a few days more
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auto de fe 21 ~.10d. The crux was a little lower thin edging with a mi...
auto de fe 21 ~.10d. The crux was a little lower thin edging with a micronut for pro.
Credit: crazy horse
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love camping in the pines
love camping in the pines
Credit: crazy horse
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ate tastey food
ate tastey food
Credit: crazy horse
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checked out the city
checked out the city
Credit: crazy horse
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back in CA!!


  Trip Report Views: 2,649
crazy horse
About the Author
crazy horse is a climber from fresno, ca.

Comments
nopantsben

climber
europe
  May 16, 2012 - 04:15am PT
wow, awesome. thanks! the grampians look so cool!!!!
cheers
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  May 16, 2012 - 08:02am PT
Awesome!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  May 16, 2012 - 08:25am PT
Good on ya, mate!
Are you a Vegemite convert?
Have a cold VB for me....
cowpoke

climber
  May 16, 2012 - 09:09am PT
outstanding -- thanks for sharing the adventure. lots of cool looking rock!

reminiscent of the needles but less bolts = wow
Tork

climber
Yosemite
  May 16, 2012 - 09:43am PT
Nice Matt!

You got around
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
  May 16, 2012 - 11:15am PT
OZ has some amazing crags. The overall quality of the stone in the areas we visited was about as good as I've found anywhere. Araps and the Grampian's are not to be missed fo sho
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  May 16, 2012 - 11:15am PT
Awesome trip, looks like you had a very memorable time, tfpu
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  May 16, 2012 - 11:15am PT
Bueno!
Grampa

climber
from SoCal
  May 16, 2012 - 11:30am PT
Really cool TR! What does kangaroo taste like?
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
  May 16, 2012 - 11:43am PT
Kangaroo is delicious! Nice TR! I spent 5 weeks there in 2008 and your pictures brought back a lot of good memories. I still need to go back. The Taipan Wall is calling...

Josh
crazy horse

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Author's Reply  May 16, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
kangaroo tastes really good. I wish we had gotten a few pictures of the meat on the barbecue
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX
  May 16, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
Duuuude, awesome trip! Great pics! Jealous...
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  May 16, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
Did you guys get to eat at an Outback Steakhouse?

Great lookin' trip man.

Wy to siend thee roots mate.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 16, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
cool Matt, thx!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  May 16, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
Wow thAt rock looks so awesome, thanks for the report.

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 16, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
Awesome pics looks like the trip of a life time.

I have always wanted to hit arapalies!

Thanks!
bergbryce

climber
East Bay, CA
  May 16, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
Nice pics. Don't see much from Australia, thanks!
slabbo

Trad climber
colo south
  May 16, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
DUDE- i didn't see any stumpies ?
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
  May 16, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
Nice!

Someday.......
Kenygl

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
  May 16, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
Oz is a special place. I climbed there in the 90's with the mob from Paddy Pallin's Piddington, York, Point Perp, Organ Pipes in Tazie. Such cool people and an awesome scene.
Fish Boy

Social climber
Squeamish
  May 16, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
Nice...Araps and the Gramps were my local crags for several years, so thanks for the memories! Done most of those routes in the pics.

Araps has the most awesome bombproof quartzite sandstone...the only rock I've climbed in which tiny wires can be whipped on over and over again without a worry of them popping out, total trad heaven. Perhaps the best easy trad routes in the world in one place!

What did you climb at Buff? Hard Rain? Defender?
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