Trip Report
Adventures with Dave - part two
Sunday May 1, 2011 3:15am
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Brassnuts is still building back up from his bicep surgery and I was excited to have him come to town to drag me up some Red Rock routes I wouldn’t normally get to climb. He only had a few weeks before joining cubicle world. As the youngster of the team (a combined age of 112 with me exactly one decade older), I was happy to let the young guy rope gun for me on some classics. His trip last year was great with details here http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1185764/crimpie-and-brassnuts-escape-Boulder-TR-long-many-pics
Day 1 Tuesday – Pine Creek Canyon. It was moderate hiking up to about Cat in the Hat then it got a little more strenuous. But, I decided it wasn’t so bad when we heard quite a commotion ahead of us and were greeted by 20 Japanese hikers coming down.
Our first objective – Adventure Punks. 4 varied pitches of 10a/b followed by an offwidth pitch of 10d. We hadn’t brought any big gear so we planned on the first 4. Just as we are roping up another party shows up with the same goal. One, Simon, was a local Brit who was showing his visiting buddy from Wales the local fun stuff. They did another route nearby while waiting for us to get up a pitch or two. We were also informed, in a friendly manner, that we were actually doing “Adventure Yuppies” since we weren’t doing the last pitch. The first pitch was pretty sketchy with fragile rock and pretty sparse pro. Glad the youngster was on the sharp end.
Next up was “Challenger”. Due to the hour, we elected to just do the first two 10d pitches. The first was a roof with a “burly” undercling, according to the guidebook.
The next pitch was also quite a “challenge”.
Day 2 Wednesday– rest
Day 3 Thursday– Black Velvet Canyon – Texas Hold’em
I got to actually lead a couple of pitches on this climb, just not the “real rock climbing” ones.
Early on the climb we heard some pretty loud huffing and puffing from Epinephrine from the second climber on the team. Then we heard some sounds that were right out of a movie. You know where the guy goes in the bathroom and starts to puke. It never really sounds authentic. But in this case, magnify that sound by 10 and keep it going for probably a full minute. Dave looked at me then we both began to try to hide the fact that we were wanting to bust out laughing. I hope the poor guy didn't actually coat the chimney.
Pitch 5 is a 180 ft 5.10d. It starts with a technical roof to a crack followed by some pumpy face climbing. One of my favorite pitches of the trip.
Dave pulled the boulder problem off the belay on pitch 7 but the 11c move up higher gave him some issues.
So, we accepted a great day on the wall and headed down.
How to finish off a great day on Black Velvet?
Day 4 Friday – semi rest
After I finished a telecom, we decided on a short day in Calico. First up the Indian Creek like “The Fox”
Dave took the big stuff but never placed the #6.
I had followed this beauty one other time and had considered leading on this trip. What a mistake that would have been. I got up it clean but it kicked my ass.
Next stop, the direct start to Physical Grafitti. Nice 5.9+ start to a run-out slab.
Final stop for the day “Risk Brother’s Roof”
This 5.10d roof was just perfect for Dave. For me? I don’t have the mad crack skills that Dave has. Maura got off work in time to join us for a try. She looked great and got farther than I did but the final bit was a bit much for her “warm-up” climb of the day.
Day 5-rest day
Time to load up for Rainbow Wall so we head where?
We get inspired in the parking lot to see what happens if we can successfully lower our percent body fat.
What did we do get our $4.99 ?
Day 6 – The big day – Rainbow Wall!
Tough but steady hiking for 1:50 to rope up area. Thankfully someone was nice enough to replace the fixed rope up the lower slabs.
They sure go on for a long time.
Dave had put this off for a long time and now it was time to see what this wall was all about.
A party of three showed up as Dave was finishing the first pitch.
As Dave started up the second pitch (5.11d) the leader of the party below us was arriving at my semi-hanging belay. He had grabbed a draw to pull through the crux. At this point the guy on the ground calls up “LEADER, do you mind if we pass”. WTF. Party of 3 about an hour behind us, our leader already starting the second pitch and they want to pass? Dave is obviously perturbed since he is right at the crux of the second pitch. He says “whatever” or something to that effect. He then asks the guy that had just gotten to my belay “Is that guy some super strong climber that will climb right through?” The answer, “Nope, I will be the guy that will lead the next two pitches”. WTF!!! The guy on the ground was volunteering his buddy to pass us. Meanwhile the two other climbers were already climbing to our cramped belay station. Dave saw the obvious cluster about to happen so we decided to bail. Incredibly rude to not even wait for Dave to finish the second pitch and get me off the belay ledge and deciding to cluster their full team of three in the cramped belay stance with me. Not one of the three did the first pitch clean.
New objective.
So, Dave offered to have us traverse over below the slabs and jump on Nightcrawler! This was great news for me to get on something I had a chance to actually climb. I did my minor part and lead the first pitch. The next pitch was a stiff 5.9 that started with a tricky (for me) chimney then some stemming.
This was just a preview of the amazing next two pitches. These pitches, at 5.10c, would give 5.10 sport climbers nightmares. What amazing, delicate, technical, sometimes powerful moves.
After spending a few days in his camper at Camp Afghanistan with Pente, Dave move to my house for a couple of days at the end of the trip. This allowed Pente to get cozy with Kappy.
Another great week of adventures with Dave.
thedogfather
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About the Author thedogfather is a climber from Las Vegas. |
Comments
johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Sweet report! Great photos and narrative. Sorry those noobs necessitated a bail on rainbow.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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You guys are monsters! In a good and you-kick-arse sorta way.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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I hope the poor guy didn't actually coat the chimney.
That's one of the funniest climbing comments I've read on this site in a long time.
oh.... and GFYS is a perfectly fine answer to a pass request coming from a party of three from the ground.
Edit: Oh yeah... great Trip report. FlashyP and weld_it I'm sure are proud!
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philo
climber
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^^^ Well said Nature ^^^
Now that was a worthy Trip Report. Thanks for posting such a beautiful set of pics and engaging dialogue DogFather.
Unbelievably rude of that party of three. That would have been a good time to feign a bout of explosive diarrhea. "Yea hold on, don't come any closer, I just Gotta go".
BNuts, maybe if Crimpergirl sewed Pente' & Kappy matching outfits???
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Thanks Dog,
Loved the epi chimney comment.
I can't believe the party of 3 on the rainbow wall, what a bunch o punters!
TFPU!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Great TR! (And by the way, I think I'll wait a few years for the arid desert climate to dry out the Epinephrine chimney.)
Looks like you guys had a great time.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Great trip report. Thanks!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Kick A$$SSSss!!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Awesome trip report. I really like the shot of Eppi from Texas Holdem, never seen it from that angle before.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Wow, great TR. Way to ROCK Vegas. Thats a shitload of hard routes to tic off, you guys are animals! Nice job!!!!!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sweeet!!! Glad I was able to warm him up for you... :-)
Bummer about the Rainbow. From what I can tell, there aren't many courteous climbers left. I'm with nature... GFYS would have been the best response.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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I'm sure BN will get on soon and comment. I can say he's still pissed about the aiding noobs on Rainbow Wall. But he had a great time. I am actually surprised he came home since he has a bit of a reprieve until the cube farm gets him.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Way cool dudes! Thanks for sharing an awesome trip report.
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Bowser
Social climber
Durango CO
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Great TR! I will make it out to RR someday.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dang, those routes look fun!
Nice work.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Hey Father of Dog - thanks for taking the time to post up from our fun times in RR! Some great stuff for sure. Failure on Rainbow Wall was a bummer, but it was a stretch goal for sure. I needed to be fully 100% to get through that pitch and having those guys crowd Dick at the belay and ask to pass prematurely (and inconsiderately given I had my hands full at the time of their 'request'!) was just enough to blow my confidence and our enjoyment of the route. I thought their actions were rude for sure, but I pretty much held my tongue since I was bummed that I couldn't just fire the pitch, despite the distractions. Perhaps there will be another round at some point - cheers to Dick for being up for the adventure!
Edit: Philo - excellent suggestion about warning the party below about a potential gastric eruption - why can't I think of the good stuff like that at the right time? :-)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Lemme know if you want another shot at it BN.
I'll hoof up there with you and I can belay to like 5.16 or so.
Love that wall and it's such a cool place up there.
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Was Red Rock, now KANSAS
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Author's Reply
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May 1, 2011 - 04:18pm PT
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@steelmnky - actually, on Adventure Punks the Brits came up right after us and never asked to pass even though they had been on the route before and were probably going to be faster. Everyone was cordial and stayed out of each other's way. On Nightcrawler, there was a party there before us and it was all cool. We took out turn and didn't climb up their asses. There is a maturity factor that is not necessarily age related. The Brits were older but the guys on Nightcrawler were relatively young. But everyone was considerate and not presumptuous.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Awesome TR!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Got to see all the photos last night. Hopefully the two will share more. :)
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Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
Durango ColoRADo
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Excellent TR! Love the humor in the photos.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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The Dogfather getting psyched for "The Fox"
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Ha! That's a great one.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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This is (should be) what we all come here for, great report! You guys didn't shy away from doing a bunch of full value climbs. It was nice to see the pics of Texas Hold'em. I've been wanting to see pictures of that "Gambler" route. I know that it was one that John was pretty proud of, looks like it is a good one.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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You young fellas done good- excellent trip report!
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Way to go Ol' Timers!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Nice to see Dave on the mend and cranking again. After those slabs (been there, done that), "GFYS" would have been most people's reply, but I know the feeling about not enjoying it and extra pressure with someone crawling up your a*# the entire route, or worse letting them pass then wathcing them slow to a crawl.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Y'all savored some super high quality rock; really nice to take a peek !!!
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Was Red Rock, now KANSAS
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Author's Reply
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May 2, 2011 - 09:53pm PT
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@FortMental - I don't have the bodybuilder's phone number but I can contact her buddy in the picture below to see if he can set you up.
Per crimpie, a couple of more shots.
More Adventure Punks. I mistakenly uploaded the same pic twice. Here is the correct on for the third pitch.
More of Texas Hold'em
Dave on Rainbow Wall's first pitch.
Dave high on the last stemming pitch on Nightcrawler.
Finally, PENTE deserting Dave for, ironically, thedogfather
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Tha cat is a ho!
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Crag Q
Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
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Nice trip report. Thanks for posting it. Night crawler looks rad.
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Sergio Colombo
climber
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I see that some "old" friends are still kicking some young punks' asses. Good job guys!!
And remember that I can always belay you on your first pitch! :-)
Keep in touch.
The Lurker.
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stumpyelle
Trad climber
southern CA
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We met you on Physical Graffiti (my 9 year-old's first multi-pitch). Great TR!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Where's part I ?
(or is that my part?)
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Steekmonkey - you ought to put up your part of the TR. I've been bugging BN to do so. I'm not an effective nagger. (thank god). :)
Also, Stumpyelle, it'd be cool to see photos of the your 9 y.o.'s first wall...post up!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Mighty Fine.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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well, that answers my question, How was the Rainbow?
Way to get it done, boys. Team Silverback rallies again.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Yeah!!! the only thing better than a TR is a TR with a sequel!
total class in how you cats handled those kooks up on Rainbow.
TFPU!
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Really enjoyed that report. Well done and thanks!
People requesting to pass from the ground is so wierd, a part of 3 no less!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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A quick-draw-pulling party of three even.
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AE
climber
Boulder, CO
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Dave,
I'm disgusted at the poor etiquette of the RWall dudes; I blame it on the Ayn Randites who claim their "superiority" gives them privileges over the peons like the rest of us. Since they did not identify themselves as sponsored superclimbers on a tight schedule, the old mountain adage is "first comers" paid their dues by getting up earlier, etc. Now, if the later group cares to risk being below you, climbs fast enough to quickly catch up, efficiently accomodates your belay stations, and clearly displays the ability to pass and soon be out of your way, without risking later dangers like dropping rocks onto you, THEN they can politely suggest the possibility of being allowed to play through.
30 years ago Jean Ruwitch nearly died after a passing party dropped a basketball-sized rock onto her head in Yosemite. Old rules give the first party dibs, just like slow drivers - you may not like em, but they have the right of way, so get over your fast-is-superior mentality. At least you were gracious and recognized the potential "cluster" to come. Perhaps you dodged a serious event by deferring.
It still would have been gratifying to read that you'd waved your Ed Whimper autograph Belay knife and suggested they try their luck. ^!!^
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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May 11, 2011 - 09:24pm PT
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Thanks.
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Papillon Rendre
Social climber
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May 11, 2011 - 09:49pm PT
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Enjoyed the TR.
And Pente sure is a cutie... :)
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Frogjamm
Trad climber
San Francisco
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May 12, 2011 - 02:52am PT
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Awesome, looks like you guys got on some sweet lines. I just did my first trip to red rock; nightcrawler was sweet, not a bad "consolation prize".
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 13, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
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Dear lord, save us from: wow really?
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