R2D2 5.8 R

Currently 4.0/5

Low Profile Dome

Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

Trip Report

Addition to R2D2 aka - Crunchy Tapatio

Monday June 18, 2012 12:55am

We climbed R2D2 thinking there was a 2nd pitch and discovered there was a 2nd pitch, which we decided to name Crunchy Tapatio. From the belay anchors ascend either go up through a large pocket above the belay anchors or continue on the right a few feet up the ramp and ascend up holds. This pitch is a really hard 5.8 or a 5.9 with lots of run out. Once above the head wall move up and to left to a low angle area and search for a small pocket for a 00 Metolious cam for protection. Then there is 30 more feet of run out to a ledge where you can place crack protection. Belay from that point then ascend up the crack (5.5) to walk off the top to the left towards Tenaya Lake. The 2nd and 3rd pitch can be combined into one pitch but communicating would be very hard and can be done on (1) 60 meter rope. Placed no bolts on the ascent used natural protection. Bring approach shoes to walk off with.

Trip Report Views: 2,052

evan.halstead

About the Author
evan.halstead is a trad climber from Fresno,CA. This was my 2nd time lead climbing and found this climb pretty difficult, but very fun.

Comments

NaPeer

Trad climber

Fresno, CA

Jun 18, 2012 - 09:25pm PT

The previous poster is my girlfriends son and climbs very strong in the gym (5.12a) and is a new climber on real rock. This was his second lead having led every pitch of The Dike Route the day before. R2D2 was a good lead on the first pitch, with Evan leading and doing very well. We were under the impression there was a second pitch with a bolt or two for protection, so Evan boldly set off again. He clipped one of the rappel anchors high up and climbed a small ramp up and right to where it petered out, then moved up over the short headwall on small knobs. Once above the headwall he traversed left on more small holds to a sloping ramp and managed to place a 00 Metolious Tricam in a shallow seam to protect the next 30+ feet to a small ledge where it intersects a diagonalling crack. A couple cams in the shallow seam at the back of this crack made up the belay. It was a bold lead where a fall above the headwall would have resulted in going over the edge and hitting the ramp below the rappel anchors. My turn at this new pitch and I followed up the small ramp but did not go right as Evan did. I noticed a large pocket above and slightly left. I pullled up on this pocket and mantled into it. A short section of small knobs led up and left to the sloping ramp with the cam protection. The third member of our party, Will, a good friend to us both, followed Evans line above the rappel anchors. All in all we felt this was a very good extension of R2D2 with fun, challenging, and bold climbing. We hope others fund it fun as well.