Trip Report
A long trip to Peru: (mostly on topic).

by wbw
Wednesday September 7, 2011 1:55am
Most of the people that I know that have passed thru Lima seem to think that it is a dirty, chaotic, Third World city that is rather incomprehensible. While it is all of the above, occasionally when the sun comes out during the Winter season, it transforms itself into something rather exotic.
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A rare display of the sun in Lima in June.
A rare display of the sun in Lima in June.
Credit: wbw
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Having family there, and having spent a bunch of time during the Winter season there,(summer season in the USA), I've had the opportunity to notice how different things look when the sun is out.
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Anyone know what these are?
Anyone know what these are?
Credit: wbw
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Credit: wbw
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Credit: wbw
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Credit: wbw
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These pictures were taken at my in-laws place in Lima.

Speaking of family, I've got to be the luckiest man in the world. I have a wonderful family, get to spend a significant amount of time in Peru, and occasionally get to see some really beautiful parts of Peru with my family. This year, we spent my daughter's birthday in Huaraz.
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That's the birthday girl on the right, and a cousin from Huaraz, on th...
That's the birthday girl on the right, and a cousin from Huaraz, on the left.
Credit: wbw
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Her mother enjoyed a typical Peruvian dish, but I guess there's just too much gringa in my daughter to enjoy it. (I understand completely).
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Cuy picante as served in Carhuaz, Peru.
Cuy picante as served in Carhuaz, Peru.
Credit: wbw
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My father-in-law was born in Huaraz, so we got a chance to visit some of his large, extended family while we were there. (Read: bust out the pisco and roasted pig.) He's not a climber, but it is obvious that he gets that same excitement that I do when looking up at one of these.
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The awe inspiring south face of Oshapalca.
The awe inspiring south face of Oshapalca.
Credit: wbw
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Here's a picture of my family and my in-laws on my daughter's birthday.
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Notice the Huascarans in the center of the photo.
Notice the Huascarans in the center of the photo.
Credit: wbw
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To celebrate a birthday in the shadow of the Cordillera Blanca, and to be able to turn my family on to the beauty of Peru is a dream come true. My family is the most important aspect of my life. I only wish I was better at conveying that fact to my wife.

Climbing, as many of you know, does not always help with the family situation. When my family returned to Lima, I spent a couple of days wandering around Huaraz, feeling pretty lonely. I don't go on climbing trips as much as I once did. Saying goodbye to my wife and children is always difficult, which makes every climbing trip bittersweet. Hanging out in as interesting a place as Huaraz however, does help one to get into exotic-climbing-trip mindset.
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Fresh mango anyone? This street vendor would likely be in first grade ...
Fresh mango anyone? This street vendor would likely be in first grade if he was in school.
Credit: wbw
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Huaraz, with the Cordillera Blanca in the background.
Huaraz, with the Cordillera Blanca in the background.
Credit: wbw
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Huascaran Sur and Norte.
Huascaran Sur and Norte.
Credit: wbw
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The first peak that I attempted was with my Peruvian bro. We found mashed potatoes on the face above the glacier, as conditions did not hard freeze the previous night.
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Churup, a very visible peak from Huaraz.
Churup, a very visible peak from Huaraz.
Credit: wbw
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Approaching Churup in the rain, about 14,000 feet.
Approaching Churup in the rain, about 14,000 feet.
Credit: wbw
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Not wanting to get crushed by serac fall, and also not wanting to spen...
Not wanting to get crushed by serac fall, and also not wanting to spend the time negotiating the crevasses on the flat part of the glacier, we climbed the steep glacier ice in between.
Credit: wbw
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Climbing glacier ice on Churup.
Climbing glacier ice on Churup.
Credit: wbw
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At the top of the glacier.
At the top of the glacier.
Credit: wbw
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Once we found the conditions to be so soft, we bailed. Oh well, at least the descent was lovely.
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Our base camp is sitting on the nice white, sandy beach below.
Our base camp is sitting on the nice white, sandy beach below.
Credit: wbw
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The next attempt produced some nice photos, but no summits.
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Walking up the Santa Cruz valley, one senses the presence of huge, icy...
Walking up the Santa Cruz valley, one senses the presence of huge, icy peaks. This one is very famous; starts with a T.; sounds like . .
Credit: wbw
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Artesonraju showing one of her many moods.
Artesonraju showing one of her many moods.
Credit: wbw
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The lake above Alpamayo base camp.
The lake above Alpamayo base camp.
Credit: wbw
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The approach to Alpamayo high camp.
The approach to Alpamayo high camp.
Credit: wbw
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These peaks tend to look like some insane pastry chef went wild with t...
These peaks tend to look like some insane pastry chef went wild with the meringue.
Credit: wbw
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See what I mean about the insane pastry chef? I think the name of this...
See what I mean about the insane pastry chef? I think the name of this 6000 meter peak is Pucahirca.
Credit: wbw
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Another mood of Artesonraju . .
Another mood of Artesonraju . .
Credit: wbw
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Life can be so full of wonder and joy.
Life can be so full of wonder and joy.
Credit: wbw
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Fullish moon over the Blanca.
Fullish moon over the Blanca.
Credit: wbw
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Hiking down the spectacular Santa Cruz valley.
Hiking down the spectacular Santa Cruz valley.
Credit: wbw
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The Cordillera Negra, as seen from Cashapampa.
The Cordillera Negra, as seen from Cashapampa.
Credit: wbw
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There comes a time on some big trips, when the realization sinks in that all of those big climbs that have been dreamed of, are not going to happen on that particular trip. Normally, I spell that as
F-A-I-L-U-R-E.
However, on this trip, I spelled it as Hatun Machay. This is one of the most remarkable areas of stone I have ever been to.
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Must be some climbing out there somewhere.
Must be some climbing out there somewhere.
Credit: wbw
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While I've never climbed on Spanish or Thai limestone, my impression is that some of the features on the volcanic rock of Hatun Machay would be similar. Tufas, pockets, grooves of the wildest kind.
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Pockets, pockets and more pockets!
Pockets, pockets and more pockets!
Credit: wbw
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If you could humor me, tilt your head to climbers' left. (I haven'...
If you could humor me, tilt your head to climbers' left. (I haven't figured out how to rotate pictures on my new computer yet.)
Credit: wbw
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Okay, so the rock is pretty cool, but what else does this area have to offer the failed alpinist?
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High drama.
High drama.
Credit: wbw
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Great, low-key camping and a refugio with full cooking gear.
Great, low-key camping and a refugio with full cooking gear.
Credit: wbw
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The sheepherders that have been here for centuries apparently think th...
The sheepherders that have been here for centuries apparently think the camping is pretty good.
Credit: wbw
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Size does matter, and this place seems endless.
Size does matter, and this place seems endless.
Credit: wbw
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If I were twenty-something years old and owned a drill, I would go and...
If I were twenty-something years old and owned a drill, I would go and develop this part of Hatun Machay. As far as I know, it's untouched.
Credit: wbw
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Rock art from a culture that pre-dates the Incas.
Rock art from a culture that pre-dates the Incas.
Credit: wbw
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Interesting architecture.
Interesting architecture.
Credit: wbw
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Hatun Machay has to-die-for views. You're looking down 14,000 vertical...
Hatun Machay has to-die-for views. You're looking down 14,000 vertical feet to the Pacific in this picture, and it's less than 50 miles away.
Credit: wbw
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The incomparable Cordillera Huayhuash. The twin summited peak is Jiris...
The incomparable Cordillera Huayhuash. The twin summited peak is Jirishanka.
Credit: wbw
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This rarely seen peak is the 2nd highest in Peru. Anyone know its name...
This rarely seen peak is the 2nd highest in Peru. Anyone know its name?
Hints: it goes for years without getting climbed, and is spelled b-a-d-a-s-s.
Credit: wbw
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So yes, if one has to rebound after alpine failure, Hatun Machay is a pretty good way to do so.
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Hatun Machay.
Hatun Machay.
Credit: wbw
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After coming back to Boulder from such a wonderful and varied trip, it didn't take long for me to be reminded of how life can turn on a dime. Sometimes, I suppose a person just has to suck it up and feel the pain. While I am going through that experience now, occasionally I can escape in my mind to a better place.
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Cheers to a deep blue Andean sky, and to better times ahead.
Cheers to a deep blue Andean sky, and to better times ahead.
Credit: wbw
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  Trip Report Views: 4,435
wbw
About the Author
is a trad climber from across the Great Divide.

Comments
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Sep 7, 2011 - 02:04am PT
Nice.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Sep 7, 2011 - 02:06am PT
Amazing scenery, thank you!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 7, 2011 - 02:40am PT
Trip reports are the best!
kellyjennifers

Trad climber
City: Dallas,State:TX
  Sep 7, 2011 - 03:25am PT
wow,amazing!
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Author's Reply  Sep 7, 2011 - 11:07am PT
Whoops, I seemed to have lost a lot of my trip report. I'll see if I can find it.
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
  Sep 7, 2011 - 11:22am PT
Nice TR. I have passed through Lima, on my way to Huaraz, many times, never seeing the sun. Nice local color and otherwise. You are indeed a lucky man. I sure miss the CB and Huaraz.
Thanks for the memory jog.
TY
Double D

climber
  Sep 7, 2011 - 11:32am PT
Nice TR... miss that place.

Speaking of roast pig and pisco... here's a photo of Charlie Schreck that we took for our sponsors Nike and TNF that never really caught on for some reason:

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Sep 7, 2011 - 11:45am PT
What a trip and amazing photos!
I am left with questions, though...

Thanks for posting and best of luck.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Sep 7, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
One place I need to go to and appreciate the photos. Those mountains are steep!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Sep 7, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
Thanks for a well-rounded TR! But no hummingbird shots? Sheesh! :-)
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Author's Reply  Sep 7, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
Okay, I got the TR back up. Thanks for your comments.

I do believe Eduardo's is still in business, although I stay at Zarela's when I'm there. I've never been to the Tamboraju (honestly), but there is a place called El Buho that is a good place to drink too much and breath cigarette smoke.

I don't think this is a hummingbird, but it's the best I can do from the trip.
NFB

Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
  Sep 7, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
B-A-D-A-S-S peak in Huahuash is Yerupaja! also known as El Carnicero/the butcher.

The badass-ness of that peak can not be over-stated. We went there armed with a post card photo of the way it was when Patrick Vallencant skiied it's west face (one of if not the proudest ski-mountaineering feats of all time). When we got there, it was like the bride of Frankenstein. Schoolbusses and houses falling down the face day and night. Climate change skeptics should study this area for sure.

Thanks for the awesome TR. Trip reports are why I look at this website.
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
  Sep 7, 2011 - 03:28pm PT
I have always stayed with Zare as well. And a night at the Tambo can be far more dangerous than the mountains! With Marcello's Vaga gone now, I not sure where I will hang; prolly wherever Zarela takes me!
TY
WallMan

Trad climber
Denver, CO
  Sep 7, 2011 - 03:35pm PT
Wbw - great photos - thanks for sharing! Peru is a special place - I need to get back.

Hope to get out and climb with you sometime down the road.

Wally
David Wilson

climber
CA
  Sep 7, 2011 - 06:15pm PT
a few more pictures from the huayhuash






Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
  Sep 7, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
Thank you! Beautiful photos and interesting to see white mountains from somewhere besides the Himalayas.
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
  Sep 7, 2011 - 07:22pm PT
Not to take anything away from these great images,
but I would encourage everyone interested to visit my buddy's
web site www.andesmadness.com Beto is world class photographer and a good friend of mine. You will not be disappointed.
TY
just_one

Mountain climber
CA
  Sep 7, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
nice tr, thanks. i had a very similar trip there in may. hatun machay saved it for me as well :)
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Author's Reply  Sep 7, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
David, those are fantastic photos of the Huayhuash. I definitely aspire to get there one of these days. So many mountains, so little time!

Wallman, it would be great to get out and climb sometime.

TYeary, I totally agree about Beto's photos. He is a real pro. I actually met him at Zarela's this past trip. His black and white photos have a very special way of capturing what those big peaks are like.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Sep 7, 2011 - 09:36pm PT
Makes me want to travel!
TFPU
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Author's Reply  Sep 9, 2011 - 12:50pm PT
Schoolbusses and houses falling down the face day and night. Climate change skeptics should study this area for sure.

To anyone that does numerous trips to the mountains in Peru, it is obvious that things are melting away rapidly. The visual changes year to year are astonishing, and climate change skeptics would truly get their cage rattled if they were to study the glaciers there.

The American Alpine Club was involved with a number of various research projects this summer in the Blanca. It will be interesting to hear about some of the conclusions that are made. One interesting fact that I heard from a member of that team is that it's not just climate change that is melting the glaciers. Human caused particulates in the air that fall on the glaciers absorb solar energy and also contribute to melting.

I've met climbers in Huaraz who say that due to the rapidly melting glaciers, they would not return to Peru on a climbing trip. Peru has so much to offer the traveling climber, that I would seriously disagree with that sentiment. I also look at "change" as creating new opportunities for climbing that may not have previously existed.
Les

Trad climber
Bahston
  Sep 9, 2011 - 02:12pm PT
holy shit! Amazing TR! My wife's mother is from Peru (amazing cook!) and I've wanted to get down there for years now. Got to find a way to make it happen soon, apparently, before it's all gone. :-( That sport climbing place looks SWEET! (and I'm not even a sport climber!).
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
  Sep 9, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
TY
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 9, 2011 - 04:15pm PT
Frigging world class, thanks!
Beautiful pics!!!!!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Sep 9, 2011 - 04:22pm PT
Very nice report. Great pictures. the rock looks amazing.
philo

climber
  Sep 10, 2011 - 01:12am PT
Wbw, even though you don't know how to rotate a picture I have to say this was an absolutely fabulous trip report. Beautiful pics, wonderful unexpected adventures, rats on a plate for birthday dinner who could ask for anything more?
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Sep 10, 2011 - 10:23am PT
Thank you for great photos and a great trip report. More thanks to those that posted still more great photos.


We had a great 2007 Peru trek/trip.
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Author's Reply  Sep 13, 2011 - 12:50am PT
Thanks Philo for the compliments. Yes, cuy has always looked to me like a rat, face down in rice; regardless of it's (big surprise), tender, chicken-like taste.

Hope you're well.

Thanks to all for the nice comments, and for the gorgeous additional pix.
laurel arndt

Trad climber
phoenix
  Sep 14, 2011 - 07:38pm PT
I can't look it makes me sad to not know when I'll be bakc to climb there. Nice pics.
BTW, Urus trade route is just a dirt hike, backside has ice and snow still, and spicier!!
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