Trip Report
A long trip to Peru: (mostly on topic).
Wednesday September 7, 2011 1:55am
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Most of the people that I know that have passed thru Lima seem to think that it is a dirty, chaotic, Third World city that is rather incomprehensible. While it is all of the above, occasionally when the sun comes out during the Winter season, it transforms itself into something rather exotic.
Having family there, and having spent a bunch of time during the Winter season there,(summer season in the USA), I've had the opportunity to notice how different things look when the sun is out.
These pictures were taken at my in-laws place in Lima.
Speaking of family, I've got to be the luckiest man in the world. I have a wonderful family, get to spend a significant amount of time in Peru, and occasionally get to see some really beautiful parts of Peru with my family. This year, we spent my daughter's birthday in Huaraz.
Her mother enjoyed a typical Peruvian dish, but I guess there's just too much gringa in my daughter to enjoy it. (I understand completely).
My father-in-law was born in Huaraz, so we got a chance to visit some of his large, extended family while we were there. (Read: bust out the pisco and roasted pig.) He's not a climber, but it is obvious that he gets that same excitement that I do when looking up at one of these.
Here's a picture of my family and my in-laws on my daughter's birthday.
To celebrate a birthday in the shadow of the Cordillera Blanca, and to be able to turn my family on to the beauty of Peru is a dream come true. My family is the most important aspect of my life. I only wish I was better at conveying that fact to my wife.
Climbing, as many of you know, does not always help with the family situation. When my family returned to Lima, I spent a couple of days wandering around Huaraz, feeling pretty lonely. I don't go on climbing trips as much as I once did. Saying goodbye to my wife and children is always difficult, which makes every climbing trip bittersweet. Hanging out in as interesting a place as Huaraz however, does help one to get into exotic-climbing-trip mindset.
The first peak that I attempted was with my Peruvian bro. We found mashed potatoes on the face above the glacier, as conditions did not hard freeze the previous night.
Once we found the conditions to be so soft, we bailed. Oh well, at least the descent was lovely.
The next attempt produced some nice photos, but no summits.
There comes a time on some big trips, when the realization sinks in that all of those big climbs that have been dreamed of, are not going to happen on that particular trip. Normally, I spell that as
F-A-I-L-U-R-E.
However, on this trip, I spelled it as Hatun Machay. This is one of the most remarkable areas of stone I have ever been to.
While I've never climbed on Spanish or Thai limestone, my impression is that some of the features on the volcanic rock of Hatun Machay would be similar. Tufas, pockets, grooves of the wildest kind.
Okay, so the rock is pretty cool, but what else does this area have to offer the failed alpinist?
So yes, if one has to rebound after alpine failure, Hatun Machay is a pretty good way to do so.
After coming back to Boulder from such a wonderful and varied trip, it didn't take long for me to be reminded of how life can turn on a dime. Sometimes, I suppose a person just has to suck it up and feel the pain. While I am going through that experience now, occasionally I can escape in my mind to a better place.
wbw
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About the Author is a trad climber from across the Great Divide. |
Comments
johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Nice.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Amazing scenery, thank you!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Trip reports are the best!
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Author's Reply
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Sep 7, 2011 - 11:07am PT
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Whoops, I seemed to have lost a lot of my trip report. I'll see if I can find it.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Nice TR. I have passed through Lima, on my way to Huaraz, many times, never seeing the sun. Nice local color and otherwise. You are indeed a lucky man. I sure miss the CB and Huaraz.
Thanks for the memory jog.
TY
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Double D
climber
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Nice TR... miss that place.
Speaking of roast pig and pisco... here's a photo of Charlie Schreck that we took for our sponsors Nike and TNF that never really caught on for some reason:
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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What a trip and amazing photos!
I am left with questions, though...
Thanks for posting and best of luck.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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One place I need to go to and appreciate the photos. Those mountains are steep!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Thanks for a well-rounded TR! But no hummingbird shots? Sheesh! :-)
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Author's Reply
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Sep 7, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
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Okay, I got the TR back up. Thanks for your comments.
I do believe Eduardo's is still in business, although I stay at Zarela's when I'm there. I've never been to the Tamboraju (honestly), but there is a place called El Buho that is a good place to drink too much and breath cigarette smoke.
I don't think this is a hummingbird, but it's the best I can do from the trip.
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NFB
Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
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B-A-D-A-S-S peak in Huahuash is Yerupaja! also known as El Carnicero/the butcher.
The badass-ness of that peak can not be over-stated. We went there armed with a post card photo of the way it was when Patrick Vallencant skiied it's west face (one of if not the proudest ski-mountaineering feats of all time). When we got there, it was like the bride of Frankenstein. Schoolbusses and houses falling down the face day and night. Climate change skeptics should study this area for sure.
Thanks for the awesome TR. Trip reports are why I look at this website.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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I have always stayed with Zare as well. And a night at the Tambo can be far more dangerous than the mountains! With Marcello's Vaga gone now, I not sure where I will hang; prolly wherever Zarela takes me!
TY
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Wbw - great photos - thanks for sharing! Peru is a special place - I need to get back.
Hope to get out and climb with you sometime down the road.
Wally
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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a few more pictures from the huayhuash
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Thank you! Beautiful photos and interesting to see white mountains from somewhere besides the Himalayas.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Not to take anything away from these great images,
but I would encourage everyone interested to visit my buddy's
web site www.andesmadness.com Beto is world class photographer and a good friend of mine. You will not be disappointed.
TY
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just_one
Mountain climber
CA
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nice tr, thanks. i had a very similar trip there in may. hatun machay saved it for me as well :)
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Author's Reply
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Sep 7, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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David, those are fantastic photos of the Huayhuash. I definitely aspire to get there one of these days. So many mountains, so little time!
Wallman, it would be great to get out and climb sometime.
TYeary, I totally agree about Beto's photos. He is a real pro. I actually met him at Zarela's this past trip. His black and white photos have a very special way of capturing what those big peaks are like.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Makes me want to travel!
TFPU
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Author's Reply
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Sep 9, 2011 - 12:50pm PT
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Schoolbusses and houses falling down the face day and night. Climate change skeptics should study this area for sure.
To anyone that does numerous trips to the mountains in Peru, it is obvious that things are melting away rapidly. The visual changes year to year are astonishing, and climate change skeptics would truly get their cage rattled if they were to study the glaciers there.
The American Alpine Club was involved with a number of various research projects this summer in the Blanca. It will be interesting to hear about some of the conclusions that are made. One interesting fact that I heard from a member of that team is that it's not just climate change that is melting the glaciers. Human caused particulates in the air that fall on the glaciers absorb solar energy and also contribute to melting.
I've met climbers in Huaraz who say that due to the rapidly melting glaciers, they would not return to Peru on a climbing trip. Peru has so much to offer the traveling climber, that I would seriously disagree with that sentiment. I also look at "change" as creating new opportunities for climbing that may not have previously existed.
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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holy shit! Amazing TR! My wife's mother is from Peru (amazing cook!) and I've wanted to get down there for years now. Got to find a way to make it happen soon, apparently, before it's all gone. :-( That sport climbing place looks SWEET! (and I'm not even a sport climber!).
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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TY
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Frigging world class, thanks!
Beautiful pics!!!!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Very nice report. Great pictures. the rock looks amazing.
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philo
climber
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Sep 10, 2011 - 01:12am PT
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Wbw, even though you don't know how to rotate a picture I have to say this was an absolutely fabulous trip report. Beautiful pics, wonderful unexpected adventures, rats on a plate for birthday dinner who could ask for anything more?
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Sep 10, 2011 - 10:23am PT
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Thank you for great photos and a great trip report. More thanks to those that posted still more great photos.
We had a great 2007 Peru trek/trip.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Author's Reply
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Sep 13, 2011 - 12:50am PT
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Thanks Philo for the compliments. Yes, cuy has always looked to me like a rat, face down in rice; regardless of it's (big surprise), tender, chicken-like taste.
Hope you're well.
Thanks to all for the nice comments, and for the gorgeous additional pix.
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laurel arndt
Trad climber
phoenix
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Sep 14, 2011 - 07:38pm PT
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I can't look it makes me sad to not know when I'll be bakc to climb there. Nice pics.
BTW, Urus trade route is just a dirt hike, backside has ice and snow still, and spicier!!
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