Trip Report
A Very slow winter ascent of the Nose
Saturday April 2, 2016 10:47pm
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Credit: Andy KP
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Trip report from a very, very slow winter ascent of the Nose.

http://andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/no_better_knot

  Trip Report Views: 3,678
Andy KP
About the Author
Andy KP is a climber from the UK

Comments
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Apr 3, 2016 - 12:24am PT
Great TR. Congratulations!
BigB

Trad climber
Red Rock
  Apr 3, 2016 - 06:46am PT
Thanx for the TR! Congrats to you and Vanessa, love forged on(in) stone. :)
Has the guy (Cian) decided to keep climbing afterwards?
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
  Apr 3, 2016 - 01:53pm PT
Congratulations! You just embarked on about the only thing harder, scarier, and more rewarding than a bigwall.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Apr 4, 2016 - 07:04am PT
Read it again slowly. I'm not sure which takes more balls, soloing, or going up there in March with an inexperienced crew.
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
  Apr 4, 2016 - 07:28am PT
What a beginning to an ending!

Cheers!
Gunkie

Trad climber
Valles Marineris
  Apr 4, 2016 - 07:57am PT
If I had my wife with me... one of us would be dead right now, probably me. You have more fortitude than I. Well done.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Apr 4, 2016 - 08:52am PT
Right on!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Apr 4, 2016 - 09:24am PT
Great story, Andy and congrats!

I read that entire ripping yarn waiting to see a picture of Vanessa's fabulous hair that you described in the first bit, but no picture??!! I think you need to post one up.

Speaking of which...


This was me and Andy before the second bottle of Petite Sirah got the better of me. I wonder if it was Andy who made the blackmail movie of me on my camera?? Sheesh.

See you at the Bridge soon, eh?

Cheers,
PtP Pete

P.S. Note the Big Wall Stemware
Jim Herson

climber
Emerald Hills, CA
  Apr 4, 2016 - 03:48pm PT
We met you guys on the descent. I've never met a happier bunch of climbers after a day, no less ten days(!), on El Cap. Seriously, you guys must have had some great fun.

I had a funny encounter with Sinead.

me: "I think I have a couple of your draws."

Sinead (in a lovely, thick Irish accent): "Really! Oh my. Wouldn't that be embarrassing."

me: "Huh? I found them on the last pitch."

Sinead: "Thanks but I don't think I'm missing any."

me: "I think you are." (digging through my pack) "Here, are these yours?"

Sinead: "Oh!!! They are mine! What did you call them?"

me: "Draws. You know, quickdraws."

Sinead: "Oh my!!!! We don't have that word. I thought you meant 'undies'"

me: "I see the confusion. You seemed kind of casual about it. Just out of curiosity, how often do strangers offer to return your undies?"
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Apr 5, 2016 - 12:01pm PT
We were going for a Harding style ascent, and for every sigh or small trough of fear or anger or frustration there was a wave of laugher, friendship and love.

I'd come to that conclusion just reading what you'd written up to that point. What a blast! While there's much to be said for moving fast and light, I often enjoy more those ascents that take a while, because they give more time to enjoy the unique surroundings of a big wall.

Thanks for that entertaining, wonderful TR, and for having the willingness to undertake that climb in that company.

John
overwatch

climber
Arizona
  Jun 24, 2016 - 08:18am PT
good stuff, nice writing
couchmaster

climber
  Jun 25, 2016 - 07:25am PT


^^^ Haha! Andys story is excellent as always, but Hersons above is like great icing on a fine cake. Thank you both for sharing them. Great stuff.

"We met you guys on the descent. I've never met a happier bunch of climbers after a day, no less ten days(!), on El Cap. Seriously, you guys must have had some great fun.

I had a funny encounter with Sinead.

me: "I think I have a couple of your draws."

Sinead (in a lovely, thick Irish accent): "Really! Oh my. Wouldn't that be embarrassing."

me: "Huh? I found them on the last pitch."

Sinead: "Thanks but I don't think I'm missing any."

me: "I think you are." (digging through my pack) "Here, are these yours?"

Sinead: "Oh!!! They are mine! What did you call them?"

me: "Draws. You know, quickdraws."

Sinead: "Oh my!!!! We don't have that word. I thought you meant 'undies'"

me: "I see the confusion. You seemed kind of casual about it. Just out of curiosity, how often do strangers offer to return your undies?""
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jun 25, 2016 - 07:40am PT
Not To Be Missed !
How did it sneak by?
Wow this guy should
Write . . . . . . . a book








Thnx, for this A! K P !
'nd for da bump, ,, ,, ,, ,, overwatch, ' ' '. '. '. . . B^ },,
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
  Jun 25, 2016 - 03:51pm PT
Wow... great write-up. We want a picture of your fiancee. :)
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