It was another fine weekend in Tuolumne Meadows. Saturday at around 6-ish I and my friend Matthew started on our way to Matthes Crest. It was breezy and cool, with some clouds off to the east..

Fortunately they stayed there. Again I was sucking wind on the approach, but the views were fantastic -

Cathedral Peak

I managed to plod my way up to the base just before 9am, about 15 seconds ahead of the next party. As we roped up about four other parties arrived. It was a tad windy and chilly for me, but I took the first lead anyway. I wasn't feeling all that great and had some kind of allergies (pine pollen ?). By the time I yelled 'off belay' there were several parties climbing around and ropes crossing. It felt like Cathedral all over again ..

The climbing was easy of course, and Matthew took the next pitch up to the start of the crest.

Here we unroped and just walked / scrambled about halfway.

Matthew taking in the view

There were a few spicy downclimbs, and at some point we got the rope out so I could give Matthew a crude belay. We simulclimbed from there. Neither of us had done much simulclimbing, so the going was a little slow at times. We were too busy enjoying the views and the exposure though.

the Echo Peaks

We decided to bail on the south summit and go for the north. There was supposedly some exposed third class ledge system down the east side to the notch between the summits, but we didn't find it. We ended up doing what I think was the 5.2 downclimb .. next time I think I'd rather just go up and over the south summit.

Finally we got to the big ledges near the notch around 4-ish. I was feeling a little tired, but decided to try leading the 5.7 route up the north summit anyway.

I started up one way, then downclimbed, then tried another way, .. even had a look at the 5.8 crack. But I wasn't feeling very confident, my left hand was starting to cramp, and I was getting clonus in my left leg. In my eyes it all looked too steep, and the holds too small. My arms felt tired and weak. I downclimbed and apologized to Matthew.. I just couldn't pull it off :(

A sense of relief washed over me. I put my approach shoes on and scrambled down to the rap station with a rope end and fed it through the rings. It had been a fun ridge traverse, but I couldn't complete it, or even get to the high point. Oh well, that's life .. better than breaking my ankle(s) out there.

We rapped twice with our single 60m x 8.3mm rope and got to the class 2 ground below, then plodded back up over the shoulder of the Echo Peaks. Beautiful views. It was still windy. The hike back to the cars felt way too long. The muscles on my left side were aching.

Failure and humility are part of what makes climbing more honest to me I guess. Back at the trailhead around 8-ish Matthew and I talked about future alpine plans. I had thought to try Bear Creek Spire's N Arete, but I'm not sure so anymore .. maybe we'll just run up the NE Ridge again.

I headed up over the pass to get some comfort food at the Mobil Mart. Will type more later ...