Trip Report
A Montana Gathering....TRs, pics, etc.
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Tuesday June 17, 2008 11:23am
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My less than comprehensive reporting of the Batholith Bash '08 is thus:
The morning of Friday the 13th, the kids and I drove the 20 minute approach from Butte to secure our chosen campsite. The previous few days left the Continental Divide area with 3-6" of fresh wet snow. This proved fortunate because it dissuaded various AV user groups from nabbing all of the good camp location. No pictures here, as I did not want to depress the weather preceding the event.
TKingsbury arrived around 2:00 pm to relieve me, as the kids and I had a date in Missoula for water splash fun and to pick up Tarbuster. All was successful.
Some tents set up with the clear, sunny weather settled in.
Campfire topoing.
The band Archer's Mob warming up. Auditory redendings of Hippy-fusion-bluegrass--most enjoyable.
A unplugged late-nite fire session.
Band break.
Whatch doin', Tarbuster ?
The 9700w generator's noise was easily suppressed by mass crash-padding and the vehicle in front of it.
With everybody gone out climbing, the kids and I camp-chilled until some Bozeman folk showed up to sample the stone.
Ladies day.
Pat starting up a classic Fantasia crack route.
Getting into the thin-finger laybacking section.
Nearing the top.
More to follow from myself and others as Bashers return to their homes and 'puters.
edit: About 35ish people made the gathering the first weekend counting the band.
Topoans included:
Tarbuster
Mojede4
Kingsbury Brothers
Hard Rock
Liz R
Unimog
Extremecat
Scott Cole
others ?
mojede
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About the Author
mojede is a trad climber from Butte, America. |
Comments
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 17, 2008 - 12:54pm PT
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Nice! I wish I was there...
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jun 17, 2008 - 01:39pm PT
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You just couldn't miss Tar with that great pink jacquette!
Tar, you're a standout!!!!!!!
Wish I'd been there. . . mebbe next year?
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Jun 17, 2008 - 04:31pm PT
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Just arrived home. Wow is there ever some kick butt rock in Butte. I only took a few photos over three days so here is a tour and tease.Dom and Tom in the kitchen.
Scott Cole warming up on a pebble.
Kurt, father of a lot of the areas routes, still can get it.
Go Scott go.
Those silly Kingsbury boys working out the feet.
Some slabby footwork that was impressive.
And Pat's squeeze chimney was pretty good, too.
So in the afternoon of Day 1 we warmed down to a bouldering session until dark. Here is some of the approach to the biggest boudering areas I've ever been to. Saturday was I believe 17 hours of climbing. Nice warm up.
And that lazer cut crack we've seen posted before is sure fun. Everyone had to get on it and even had a couple near traffic jams.
Assembly line type sends became the most effecient. This was Day one. Warm up day. Stellar weather, great rock, and the best people I could have run into. More to come later. If you missed it, you missed a lot. I will try to post more later as I still have to unpack and cook some chow for the Mrs. that so graciously allows me to squander our life savings on these little camping trips.
Bob, one of the most gratefull climbers in Mt.
Edit to straighten out the pics.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Jun 17, 2008 - 09:29pm PT
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Great photos !
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 18, 2008 - 12:54am PT
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Keep pullin; the good pull!
sigh...
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Jun 18, 2008 - 01:38pm PT
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Here is my first attempt to upload.
Pat on the F.A. of a new classic on Saturday morning.
Scott
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Jun 18, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
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Well that worked. Here are a couple more.
Tom on the F.A. of the Tominator., and Pat on some wide fun.
Scole
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Sunny California
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Jun 18, 2008 - 02:36pm PT
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Mike
I don't get it.
Pics appear correctly on my monitor.
Scole
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 18, 2008 - 02:43pm PT
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Scott, I think he's referring to your first post.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 18, 2008 - 04:40pm PT
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Nice pics fellas!
Scott- I think you must of moved your first pic, so the address needs to be updated on the post. I can see the second two on here.
So I'm back in Bozeman for a restday. I know, I said I'd be vacationing out there for the whole time, but the allure of a bed, showers, and relaxing was too much for me. I'm also dumping pics from the first half, so here is a bit of the happenings...
I took alot of the day 1 pics on Dom's camera, so those are yet to be downloaded...
An evening session out in the Aspens...
Laps on a fun crack...
Tarbuster styles the Onion Slab
Relaxed Sunday morning at the Queen...
Archer's Mob played into the night...
Tarbuster, Scott Cole, Dom, and Cody discussing the finer points of life...
Mojede on steak duty...many steaks were served...
Unimog(hidden), Hard Rock, Mojede and xtremecat
We were hoping to have some sushi by Nature, but Albertsons ended up coming through...
911 Crack
As Pat eyed up the last section I ran outta battery life(DOH!) so xtremecat tagged me up his camera for the ending section...look for those later...
Chris on a Fantasia boulder...
We then spied a roof crack that struck Pat's interest...
It's ~15' to the lip...
the kick though...
Before I knew it, Pat pulled the lip and we were all smiles. Very smooth effort from the brother. Nice job Pat.
After a couple beers, I left Pat in good company and headed back for some rest. They are still out there cranking down...I'm headed back in the early AM to jump back in...maybe I'll see you there...
Cheers,
Tom
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Jun 18, 2008 - 06:03pm PT
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Wow...
These are a nice group of pictures. I really love the roof shots since they show some really impressive climbing!
Thank you for posting these!
AF
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 18, 2008 - 08:43pm PT
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Curious-why all the dead trees?
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Jun 18, 2008 - 10:44pm PT
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Ok then. Beetle kill it is. Here are some shots of sunday, seven of us went to the Humbug Spires and did the Wedge. We broke up into three different teams and went up via three routes.
The Wedge looking at it from the notch to the north.
And from the bottom looking up.
Some really good and cool rock with awesome views at every belay.
Oh yea, it is mandatory to have dogs to climb in Butte.
How can you be here and not smile.
Probably the best top out in Montana.
And who could that be doing the chimney pitch of the "Old Aid Route" with a red Trango helmet on???Someone famous? Maybe from a Trango ad?
A mandatory debreifing before heading back to camp.
These are shots of Pat on the 911 crack on Monday. Burly lieback and tips to fingerlocks. Awesome effort. Third pic was taken by "Tom" so give him the credit. Notice it contains a pinkie mono.
That's all the time for downloading pics today so until next year. By the way Tom I've burnt you a disk of everything, just e-mail me your info and it's yours. Liz might want some of the stuff too. I'm sure some of the Pat action shots are good also.
Enjoy.
Bob
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 19, 2008 - 07:30am PT
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Nice pics Bob! Glad to see some pics from y'alls day in the Humbugs...I'll send you my info when I get back in 'home' mode...I gotta head back out now though...
It's the beetle kill that you're seeing in those shots. The Butte area has been hit pretty hard unfortunately.
Just wanted to add that it's been great meeting all you folks so far. A super good time for sure. Well time to saddle up and head out. You folks take er easy
Tom
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Barto
climber
Minneapolis, MN
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Jun 19, 2008 - 12:25pm PT
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tkbry--
Your photographs are always a treat.
thanks for posting.
barto
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jun 19, 2008 - 01:16pm PT
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Looks like some great times and climbs.
Are there many people camping there during the week?
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jun 19, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
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Scuffy, the least amount of people bedding down in camp throughout the event has been 6 (counting my two kids), and the most about about two dozen.
The weather has been uber-good with clear, starry, moon-filled nights.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 19, 2008 - 01:30pm PT
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oh man, too cool I don't know where to start, that roof looks magnificent!
... so that's where the Albertson's that escaped Lucky™ hood ended up.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Jun 19, 2008 - 01:38pm PT
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Sure looks like a blast.
Has anyone gone out to the Endcap or Good Egg area?
Those two were on my list from Tom's maps.
Maybe soon...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jun 19, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
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Some camp shots--until the climbers return from the day.
Lyddie was motivated to make her own drum kit after watching the band.
Wednesday's fire group roasting micro-mallows.
Ladd seems to be shy and grumpy in the morning.
Tom, showing Lyddie and us the finer points of Hula-hooping.
His show-piece move.
More from the event as it continues to develop.....
edit: Was that the dog of Hard Rock's that ate Pat's entire dark chocolate bar, or the one that ran away as the rigs were runnin' and getting ready to head out to the 'Bugs ? :-)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jun 19, 2008 - 01:57pm PT
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Great stuff, folks, wish I didn't miss it!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 19, 2008 - 10:50pm PT
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'Love those photos of Patrick Kingsbury kicking out that roof!
Them thin crack photos ain't bad either.
Stunning action you caught here Tom:
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 21, 2008 - 01:38am PT
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How did this wonderful thread sink so far so fast?!
I need to get me one of them dayglo green cords!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 21, 2008 - 10:24am PT
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They are all out in the Batholith making more pictures for us Ed.
This thing should rise back up on Monday or so...
That cord is something like a 9.2mm X 80m ... quite like a piece of silly string, eh?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 21, 2008 - 10:35am PT
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jun 21, 2008 - 12:48pm PT
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Friday was a strange day--the Kingsbury bros got "lost" on the way following the gang to Roof Rock, and we didn't get to regroup until about 2 in the afternoon. Only time was lost, of which we had plenty, so without further adieu we ventured to the Bourbon Crag area--a small outcrop of unclimbed granite.
Liz on the Hidden Slammer Crack, just off Delmoe Road by the lake.
Katie on the same problem.
The event co-ordinators perched above the function's acreage.
Dom exploring some new territory.
Liz and Katie joining us on the summit of the pebble heap.
L and K playing on a side of the heap.
Dom, finishing out the day's climbing on a crack pebble.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 25, 2008 - 05:48pm PT
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Well I returned back to the Bozone on Sunday to find out that the party received some press:
though they got the dates wrong...heh
The mid week was a bit quiet, but visitors appeared daily/nightly for midweek sessions. Pat, Dom and Liz hung out for the duration...
It was pretty chill, a good vacation. It was really good meeting and climbing with all the different folks, and great just to be in the batholith for an extended period. I felt like I got to know the area a bit better, and was able to explore some of the areas had just previously dabbled in.
It helped that Mojede and the real Mojede were cooking up some really fine cuisine. Lots of steaks & ribs, and great breakfasts too...pretty deluxe to roll out of bed and have Mojede all motivated on the cooking scene. Dom & Liz had it on lockdown too. Liz's banana pancakes are AWESOME!
The surf & turf:
Camp Caroline:
A fair amount of shots that were taken that day by a buddy B-Hayes, including some of a really fun, thin corner...hopefully I round up those shots and post them up soon...keep an eye out for the bumpage...
Some bouldering from out there...
we also messed around on this thing...turned out to be hard!
Bourbon Crag:
Humped up the hill to check this thing out(see Mojede's pics too), good to mess around at, but I'm not too sure I'd return...Camp Caroline is a keeper though...
This route was pretty cool though:
Dominic on four no four...
[img]http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/4843/img3370smpp3.jpg/img]
We then returned to Fantasia...Dom wanted a go at the Hyperspace Roof
Pat took these ones...
We also checked out a new line potential...it's cool, but hard in that flaring sort of way...
That's all for now...I still need to get the shots from Dom and from Hayes, so keep an eye out for those...
Good times though folks.
If you made it, I'm glad you did!
If you missed out, maybe we can do this thing again next year!
If you're can't wait till then, you know where to find us!
Cheers and many many thanks,
Tom
Goatboy EDIT:
We didn't get down to those areas Erik...the first Saturday we hit the East Tracks(which is nearby) and it was pretty warm that low on the pass...decided to hold off on those...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jun 25, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
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Some fun "statistics"...
Longest distance travelled by air: Tarbuster--784
Longest distance travelled by ground: Unimog--725ish (ask him where he started from to get Tarbuster)
Road Warrior (xxx miles on Triumph X-country motorcycle from J-Hole): Scott Cole--285
Most nights camped-- open bivy (although he had crash pads): P. Kingsbury--9
Most nights camped-- tent: Liz R--9
New roped routes FA'd: 6 (names pending)--more?
New boulder problems sent: Oodles
Couples Award: Tahoetun and Meg
Biggest clan: mojede--4
Best bedroll: Hard Rock (Coleman pop-up trailer)
Most dogs at one time: 4?
...any I forgot ?
Since it WAS Father's Day on the first Sunday of the Bash--Dads: extremecat (G-pa, too) and moi.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 25, 2008 - 10:33pm PT
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Unimog AKA Sasha, travelled his 700 sumthin' mileage in fine style.
...From somewheres' fareaway like Vancouver or some such:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 25, 2008 - 10:39pm PT
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Montana rocks out huge-ish 'n funlike.
I'm ready for more!!!
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cowpoke
climber
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Jun 25, 2008 - 10:47pm PT
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damn, looks like a blast...thanks for all the pics!
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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Jun 26, 2008 - 10:45am PT
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On Tom's last photo - Roof Rock to the right of Liz's shoulder.
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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Jun 26, 2008 - 10:45am PT
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On Tom's last photo - Roof Rock to the right of Liz's shoulder.
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L
climber
Just livin' the dream
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Jun 26, 2008 - 11:24am PT
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SaaaaWeeeeeet!!!!
You guys know how to party!
Great photos one and all.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 11:42am PT
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You guys kick ass!
good times indeed, nice execution.
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Jun 26, 2008 - 04:17pm PT
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Thanks Tom, you folks are a class act.
Com a ti yi youpy, youpy ya, youpy ya,
Coma ti yi youpy, youpy ya
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 26, 2008 - 05:07pm PT
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Thanks for the updates, amazing stuff. You floss tycoons know how to live! I think the photo that will stick with me the longest is the one of Mojede's daughter, the drummer.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jun 26, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
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Nice to hear, Jaybro. That photo took place the next day after the band played. The drummer had left a used pair of sticks lying around camp (maybe for the kids?). After I showed them to Lyddie, she started banging on things, eventually ending up at the water bottles and coolers. She would count out 1234 really fast (Ramones style) and try to keep that beat going, but it wasn't working. I told her to go 1-2-1-2-3-4 and then wail away.
After a few minutes, she looked around, got up, and said, "I need a chair."
She grabbed a little cooler, sat back down, and had a good 15 minutes of fun there.
It put a warm fuzzy on me. :-)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 26, 2008 - 06:42pm PT
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Of course You, of all people know, how beyond cool that is, Moj! Cheers!
A related aside; myself and my daughter's mom, took said offspring to a Ramone's concert (it was outside, (Mesa, Az) no eardrums were destroyed) when she was 10 months old. She loved it! She could barely stand, but she was shouting and bobbing her head in an age aproppriate way. May explain her penchant for black T-shirts and jeans today, 18 years later. My ex and I find various things to disagree (actually not that many, all things considered)about, But all three of us seem to be in agreement that that that night was one of our collective, better moments!
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Hard Rock
Trad climber
Montana
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Jun 27, 2008 - 10:22am PT
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Kevein - I have 2 increases to count:
3 piece of chain for anchors carried in around the dog's necks.
2 routes on friends rock: Alex Left and Alex Right.
One trail GIS for the approach.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jun 27, 2008 - 11:09am PT
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Kurt, I was counting those two, but couldn't remember what you and Ken called them.
The routes :
"Hyperspace" (5.11+) Fantasia, FFA: P. Kingsbury
"Four No Four" (5.8+) Boubon Crag, FFA: Dominic, et al.
Liz and Katie's shorty cruiser--Bourbon Crag
"Alex Left" Friends Rock, Humbug Spires, FFA: Ken and Kurt
"Alex Right" Friends Rock, Humbug Spires, FFA: Ken and Kurt
Kurt's Finger Fun thing, (rating?) East Tony's Canyon, FFA: Hard Rock and mojede
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 27, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
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Nice tales there Jay and Hutch! Made me smile for sure.
Mojede - more routes were done at the Camp Caroline too.
-3 routes similar to Practice Chimney at the Queen. Fun, solid, cruisers.
-5.8 hand crack on the upper buttress
-5.6 flake on the upper buttress
-Caroline's Corner (5.10) Thin crack/corner thing in the hallway of the lower buttress(pics soon, I hope)
-5.7 hand crack on backside of the lower buttress
I guess that's 7 more new routes...we should go back there though, there are 4 or 5 more that I wouldn't mind going back for...plus that TR project.
I rounded up some more pics. I was using Dom's camera for the first day, since I spaced bringing my own...so here's some coverage from the first Saturday:
Roy and Scott getting the blood flowing on the Mastodon boulder...
Meg going for it on Recoil
Scott on the same
Roy pushing it to the top for the FKA
We then trucked over to King & Queen, for some more bouldering and routes...
Pat getting his Super Squeeze on...
Roy hikes a classic...
after that we ended up hitting the camp for some beers, and went out for an evening session...which is where my initial coverage started...Man, what a great day(s)...
Sunshine, sunshine, it's fine
I feel it in my skin, warming up my mind,
Sometimes you gotta give in to win,
I love the days when it shines,
whoa let it shine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvY38j7JdCk
Cheers,
Tom
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jun 30, 2008 - 02:08pm PT
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Jaybro, here's another Lyddie tale from the Bash:
Lyddie likes gum, plain and simple, yet Molly and I try to curb her intake as much as possible--usually reserving it for a bribe. At the camp fire sat Tom, Pat, Dom, Liz, Katie and myself chillin' on a weeknight. Lyddie was pimpin' the crowd for candy, but alas, none was to be found. I mouthed to Katie, "You got any gum?" to which she nodded "Yes".
Pieces were distributed to most of the crowd when Liz and Tom came up with the game of "Quiet". The rules were simple, if you talked you had to forfeit your gum. Lyddie has the will of a statue when she wants to and did not under any circumstance want to give up her precious gum. She was not letting anybody trick her.
As the chatting amongst the non-chewers continued, Lyddie tapped Katie on the leg and pointed to her own gam. Katie looked down at Lyddie's leg to see a burning ember on her fleece pants right on top of her thigh. Apparently, the pine logs burning in the fire spit out an ember the size of a BB and started to burn into the fleece wear. Not wanting to lose her gum, Lyddie reckoned that she should alert someone (without talking) to alleviate the situation.
My words to Lyddie were along the lines of, "Lyddie, in THIS game, and any other time, when you are on FIRE, it is OK to talk or tell someone."
She had no mark on her leg, and I realized how deep the will of this child ran.
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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Jun 30, 2008 - 03:12pm PT
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Thanks for posting y'all.
Is there gona be another climbing party next year?
-e
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 30, 2008 - 05:25pm PT
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that one had me laughing and crying at the same time, Mojede.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jun 30, 2008 - 05:38pm PT
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I was as proud as I was concerned--she's a learnin' me real good.
edit: Hey, Liz R , I found Katie's (sp?) shoes, chalk bag, 'biner and spaghetti sling at Camp Caroline on Sunday (29th) along with Tom/Pat's mini-traxion. Tell her it will be at Tom's after Wednesday night. Thanks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 30, 2008 - 05:42pm PT
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How Do, they do that?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 30, 2008 - 05:45pm PT
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Lyddie = old soul and one smart kid.
-not that i'm all wujie 'n spiritual, but i do know neato kid stuff when i see it!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jun 30, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
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A common practice of hers when first attending a new class is to check the scene out visually, join the group and/or follow the directions given, then look over at me and whisper, "You can go now, Dad."
I have yet to peek in without her seeing me, and when "her time" is over, it's back to being my daughter.
Molly and I came across a blurb proffering that a parents' role is being stewards (ital.) for their offspring--a pretty sound direction in our view, if only we can pull it off (in every way possible). :-)
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Couple of shots leaked by Hayes...
Messing around out in Camp Caroline...
EDIT: Anyone watch the "ninja warrior" show? there was some links posted here awhile back...anyways this chimney/hallway is perfect for the 'spiderwalker' or whatever they called it...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jul 11, 2008 - 03:45pm PT
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Bump-- 'cuz I found some pics on the old digi camera that we let Lyddie and Ladd use.
Her shots:
Morning amidst the trees
Tarbuster and ?
Road Warrior Scott
Dom
Fuzzy Pat
Mister Tom
Laddie and Daddie
Self-portrait
Rah-ray.....LYDDIE
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 11, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
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Nice shots Lyddie!
That's Joel in the picture with Roy. Another welcomed guest to the bash...
Looking at this thread again makes me want to get out there again soon...maybe Humbugs...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jul 11, 2008 - 04:16pm PT
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We have unfinished business in the 'bugs, kwim?
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 11, 2008 - 04:49pm PT
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The line left of Butte Hurt?
There is business all over that place...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Author's Reply
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Jul 11, 2008 - 05:35pm PT
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Yeah, that line left of Butte Hurt for sure, but I was thinking retrieval.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jul 11, 2008 - 05:37pm PT
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Very true...Where is my mind?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 17, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
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Mojede bump
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Oct 17, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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Thread BUMP!
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