Trip Report
A Deto first time
Wednesday August 2, 2006 4:22pm
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My sixteen yr old daughter Natalie has been climbing longer than she can remember.
inside and out, but neveer anything 'big.' So, when a hurried weekend trip to NE Wyo for her cousin's wedding came I said,
"Wanna Climb Devil's Tower?"
"Sure."
The Die was cast. Nat, myself and her Uncles, Chasbro & Barrybro would ascend on the last day of July.
a suitable first route, Bon Homme, 5.8+ 2 pitches was selected.
Charge
after the one hour drive which was Nat's intro to Firesign theatre, that the 'bro's knew by heart, she knew we were crazy!
Massive Exposure, sandbagged ratings, unfamiliar wyde crack technique and an exposed traverse and she still kept her enthusiasm and sense of humor.
Less sure how much fun Chasbro was having at the same point
though 'he got better,'
On, to pitch two
I topped out on that one and brought Nat up to the ledge,
and up into 'The Meadows'
While Barrybro Followed pitch one.
Meanwhile, the mighty Belle Fourche looked on,
after a short scramble, we were on to the summit prairie,
Time to head down for Ice Cream,
Of Course, No whirlwind trip to 'big wonderful' is complete without a stop at Vedauwoo on the way to DIA!
Natalie A, 16 - first time up the tower
Jay A, 50 - first time up the tower as a fifty year old (92nd overall ascent)
Chas A, 56 - First time up after marrying off both kids + becoming a grandad (100+ ascents)
Barry, 45- First time up of the new Millenium
Also the 31st Anniversary (more or less, I forget the exact date, though the month and year are 'On") of Chas & Jay's first time up (along with Tibor Polgar, Larry Losch and Mark Stumpf)
Jaybro
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About the Author Jaybro is a social climber from Wolf City, Wyoming. |
Comments
Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Next time bring "Russ-Bro"
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nice J-Brah!
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
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Good on ya' for the cool parenting, but harnessing up at the car?
You should be teaching better style...
Just kidding man! I wish my dad was as cool as you.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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NICE!!! Looks like you even got a little big size crack in on the second pitch.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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very cool, looks like a good time. Thanks for posting up.
Tom
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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Harnessing up at the car & mountaineer's coil thrown over the shoulder is the ultimate in style. Props to your daughter for her "Hook 'em Horns" hand gesture in the car photo.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Awesome. Your daughter and you have the same smiles - that's so cool to see. Can't wait to see your next TR
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Is that BarryBro in the Whillans ballbuster harness?
Good thing he's got the t-shirt that says: "Calm"!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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nice one Jay... looks like fun -
where's the elevator boy?
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Outstanding pictures!!
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NeverSurfaced
Trad climber
Puerto Natales
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Thanks for the inspiration! I’ve got dozens of shots of my oldest daughter (now 5 ½) on our backyard wall. Your pics are super cool. Thanks!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Aug 3, 2006 - 09:41am PT
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Since Barry and I flew in, Chas (he's a local)provided most of the equipment. Barrybro got the classic Whillians, Natalie got the original Series MM Cadillac Swami with hugger loops, Chas favored a J-rat rig.
The elevator boy is knott part of our family!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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Cool Jaybro, looks a darn site better than climbing on Diablo, eh?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hey Jay,
Does Natalie know you've posted her diaper shot for all to see?
Given that it was a Christmas card, she must be used to it by now.
Too funny.
'Nice All in the Family style TR.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Ha! I noticed that too!
But she might object even more to the top of her head being cut off in favor of some really ugly toes.
Cropping needed. ;-)
Rest of the pictures are great!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Aug 3, 2006 - 09:14pm PT
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Nat knows all, she okayed the whole post before I sent it, and she's grown up looking at the diaper shot.
Didn't realize we were Jaybro-fungus-feet-heavy, at the cost of Nat's head - it was the fault of my multi-tasking, belay and photo, not editing.
She is, at this moment, dancing around, and 'talking' with her online buds on another computer, and still loves me!
I'm saving the buns-up baby bubble bath shots for her more scary dates, or other approppriate moments of parental blackmail.
-she gets to proof read this one, too!
-we're cool.
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426
climber
☬
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Nice stuff Jaybro!
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Your pictures warm my heart and likely will be a trip that you all will remember forever.
What's planned next?
-Susan
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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I think the diaper photo is the cutest (exclamation points). Not to say the others aren't terrific, but that one just makes me smile.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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kids in diapers at the crags/gym,
man that just says something about the future and it looks good.
now that's something you didn't see 20-30 years ago (16 maybe).
hey Jay,
remember that little kid, Evan, from red mountain rock gym?
'first time i saw him he was standing in his diaper on top of of a fairly large boulder during a comp, totally rippin' the plastic and at times getting a good several body lengths off the pads.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Aug 4, 2006 - 12:39am PT
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Tar
I thought Evan's coolest trick was when he would climb on top of the kids wall (6-7' off the, padded, ground)grab both ends of one of the steep topropes and swing halfway(seemed like) across the gym on pure grip strength! at age 2!! all 'cause he wanted to!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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fuchin' little dood warmed the cockles of my heart.
i tried hard to get evolve to let me sponsor him.
we at least got him some shoes.
man he was so stoked.
(the shoes were huge on 'im, even the smallest size)
he would routinely call me over to either spot him,
or show off his other favorite trick:
essentially climbing up and taking a little intentional whipper onto his back and roll out of it, giggling.
i was bummed when i learned the gym failed.
evan's mom and dad owned it: mike and janet.
i have not seen them.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Aug 4, 2006 - 01:02am PT
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I've had email from them, positive about life, but nebulous about what they are doing.
Very good people, I was ultrabummed when the gym went belly-up.
On my stolen computer, I had action shots that Natalie took of Evan. I'll dig them up as I can.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mike prolly still teaches skiing during the winters.
Man, sumthin' compelling about Evan.
(whut isn't compelling about the promise of children).
Ya, post those snappy shots up when you find 'em.
Even cooler that Natalie took them.
cheers,
Roy.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Jan 29, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
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shameless self agrandizing bump
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jan 29, 2007 - 02:01pm PT
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Jaybro:
I consulted with the etiquette book before bumping my own trip report and learned that it is perfectly acceptable to do so. It was fun reading this time too! Thanks for bumping it.
C
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Carolyn C
Trad climber
the long, long trailer
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Jan 29, 2007 - 02:09pm PT
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Glad you bumped it because I hadn't seen it, and it's great. Mark Stumpf? - would he be the artist (at least he was an artist in the 70s) from Berkeley?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Jan 29, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
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Carolyn C -yes the same, though I've lost touch with him.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 29, 2007 - 02:47pm PT
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Very nice TR. Looks like everyone had a great time.
You've also done your bit for tourism - I have GOT to get to Devils Tower now!
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Carolyn C
Trad climber
the long, long trailer
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Jan 30, 2007 - 11:05am PT
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Jaybro - It was nice to see Mark's name. I knew him from the Indian Rock scene in Berkeley in the late 70s; he was a really nice guy, had his own painting business. Thanks for the great TR and photos.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jan 30, 2007 - 11:14am PT
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Good catch, Carolyn. I'd missed Mark's name the first time this thread went around.
I saw Mark a couple years ago. He switched from painting contractor to general contractor (Big Dog Construction).
His voice is still somewhat penetrating. Still got that big
Santa-like laugh.
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Hootervillian
climber
the Hooterville World-Guardian
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Jan 30, 2007 - 11:19am PT
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nice.
ever think about adopting? i have references!
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Carolyn C
Trad climber
the long, long trailer
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Jan 30, 2007 - 11:30am PT
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Steve - Big Dog Construction...perfect name for a Mark Stumpf business.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 30, 2007 - 11:33am PT
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Dang! 92 times up Devil's Tower? I haven't been even once. Nice pics!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Jan 30, 2007 - 03:01pm PT
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Scuff, Carolyn if either of you have contact info for mark please forward (I guess I could look up Big Dog, d'oh)
I went to High School with him. Tim Waschik, too.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jan 30, 2007 - 03:13pm PT
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I'm confused, Jaybro.
I thought you had grown up in the heartland.
Makes me wonder how many times you, Patrick and I were all
at Indian Rock at the same time without ever knowing.
Yeah, do a search for Mark.
big dog construction Oakland took me to a nice photo of him
howling with his wolfhounds.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Jan 30, 2007 - 06:44pm PT
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Family moved from Chicago (Park Forest) to Moraga in '71, when I was 15.
It's almost impossible that we didn't all run into each other around then, weird, but cool!
Googling Big Dog const.
-found the address & phone #, but no picture!?
-got it! Three irish wolfhounds, man o man, that's a lot of purina!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jan 30, 2007 - 07:08pm PT
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About 3 hits down was a SF Gate multimedia thing, Dog Ditties.
Also an article about a house he built above the Tunnel.
EDIT:
That's on Yahoo search. Google didn't get me those articles
within the first 2 pages.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 30, 2007 - 11:10pm PT
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". . . Antelope Freeway, one half mile . . . Antelope Freeway, one quarter mile . . . "
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Jan 30, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
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"... Happy (something)commons, if you lived here you'd be home by now..."
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 30, 2007 - 11:15pm PT
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NICK DANGER, THIRD EYE!!!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Jan 31, 2007 - 01:00pm PT
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WHAT IS REALITY?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Sep 30, 2008 - 05:49pm PT
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Seems so long ago...
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Gene
climber
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Sep 30, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
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Ain't being a Daddy the greatest?
Best to you and yours,
GM
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Sep 30, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
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oh, it is!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Sep 30, 2008 - 06:59pm PT
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You'll always be the big daddy to us, J.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Sep 30, 2008 - 07:00pm PT
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Jaybro has the elevated status of FATHER--he who has raised a well-adjusted, contributing member of society.
...if I can do the same, then I will know that I have succeeded.
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adam d
climber
CA
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Sep 30, 2008 - 07:02pm PT
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Maybe I'm not in on the lingo, but I was glad to see a devil's tower TR rather than your daughter's first experience in DeTox. Bon Homme Variation was my first route on the tower too...sweet line!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 30, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
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High School Prom?
Nice.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Sep 30, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
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Maid of Honor at friends wedding, coulda been, though.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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nice!
thanks for the bump, missed this one originally.
sitting in franks living room right now!
cheers,
patrick
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the museum
Trad climber
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Son-in-law Deto first timer.. hey Pat, you're back again. We can't come over this weekend. Have a super fun time! Brad
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Family and Friends....when you compress life to its finest ....that's it !
Great post Mr. JBro and Friends.
Peace and Joy on this Great Planet of F&F.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Oct 4, 2008 - 12:39am PT
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Keep you back to the wall, Pat
;)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Feb 25, 2009 - 07:09am PT
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schoolgirl (all A's in college so far) style bump
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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And Nat didn't stick her tongue out once, at least not in the photos. She must have been having a good time!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jaybro-
Ya gotta be a proud Dad! Great TR!
I'm just guessing, but you stated Bonhomme Route; then mentioned an expesed traverse. I'm assuming it was the variation with traverse across the face of the column? It's "on my list" for later this Summer (if Summer ever gets here!).
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Awesome, thanks!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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What great summit smiles!!!!
Thanks for sharing, Jaybro!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Jun 2, 2011 - 11:43pm PT
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Don't tell her I posted this one from the evil parent way way (pre-deto) back machine...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 17, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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Great trip report Jaybro.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Jun 26, 2014 - 05:53pm PT
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And come Halloween, she's gonna be 25!? How is that possible?
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California, living in The Old Pueblo
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Jun 26, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
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And come Halloween, she's gonna be 25!? How is that possible?
Blows the mind, doesn't it, Jaybro? Mine will be 22 in November.
I am glad you bumped this... Great TR that has me smiling from ear to ear.
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Jingy
climber
Random Nobody
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Jun 27, 2014 - 04:33pm PT
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thanks Jaybro.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 27, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
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Just rode the way-back-machine, but I'm glad I did. Thank gods for daughters
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Apr 12, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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Bump
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Apr 12, 2015 - 07:51pm PT
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Makes me think how someday when my kids are done with college I'll be bumping trip reports from when they were my little mountain gangsters. I've still got another decade or so before that time, trying to make the most of it!
How the time does pass.
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