Trip Report
A Day on the Nose
Thursday September 5, 2013 1:33am
My stomach shrank and my feet felt weak. Beneath me was 3000 feet of air all the way to the ground. My only connection to this world lay in a rope running up above me and disappearing over a roof. The bright white granite apron of El Capitan splayed out beneath me, and the trees far beneath looked like small bushes. A gentle breeze blew, and I slowly twirled on my lifeline, getting a 360 degree view of the scenery around me. I paused, thinking now would be a good time to take a picture, but the intense exposure of my situation put only one thought in my mind: Up.

This is an abridged photo summary of Vinnie and my NIAD a little over a week ago. The much more verbose TR and many more pics are here: https://plus.google.com/116793708900066114376/posts/j1rFMbcg6eu

We started at 11 pm to let us (hopefully) finish with daylight. This was to keep the psyche high for the last few pitches. I think it worked out!

Getting ready to hit the trail and head up there
top left corner top right corner
About to start our journey @ 10:30pm
About to start our journey @ 10:30pm
Credit: septikus
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Start your engines!
top left corner top right corner
At the start of the Nose @ 11 pm
At the start of the Nose @ 11 pm
Credit: septikus
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Fastest time to top of Dolt yet: 4:24. We did two practice runs to Dolt and p19 to get the logistics out of the way a month before.
top left corner top right corner
Vinnie gearing up for his block on top of Dolt
Vinnie gearing up for his block on top of Dolt
Credit: septikus
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Video of Vinnie sticking it on King swing!

top left corner top right corner
Riding the wave in the Great Roof
Riding the wave in the Great Roof
Credit: septikus
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Me sitting @ camp 5 and Vinnie following. Photo credit to Marlin Thorm...
Me sitting @ camp 5 and Vinnie following. Photo credit to Marlin Thorman
Credit: septikus
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Vinnie on Changing Corners
Vinnie on Changing Corners
Credit: septikus
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Vinnie heading up Changing Corners. Photo credit to Marlin Thorman.
Vinnie heading up Changing Corners. Photo credit to Marlin Thorman.
Credit: septikus
bottom left corner bottom right corner

top left corner top right corner
Heading up to the summit roofs
Heading up to the summit roofs
Credit: septikus
bottom left corner bottom right corner

Video of us at the top

top left corner top right corner
Classic shot of us in front of El Cap
Classic shot of us in front of El Cap
Credit: septikus
bottom left corner bottom right corner

We had a great time on our first full climb up the captain, and I think we'll be back for more...

  Trip Report Views: 2,912
septikus
About the Author
septikus is a trad climber from Bay Area, CA.

Comments
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Sep 5, 2013 - 07:52am PT
First time up El Cap? You guys crushed it!
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
  Sep 5, 2013 - 07:56am PT
Ditto what Mark said!

Excellent job and with those smiles it looks like you had a great time.

cheers
whitemeat

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Sep 5, 2013 - 10:25am PT
ran into you guys at the top when you did east buttreess! you guys crushed it! good send!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Sep 5, 2013 - 11:13am PT
Very nice, congratulations!
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Sep 5, 2013 - 11:15am PT
Impressive! Thanks for the TR.
Vinnie-

climber
San Francisco, CA
  Sep 5, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
It was pretty inspiring to see whitemeat and Jaysen on their way down from the Shield. Their stoke was contagious!
Jaysen

Big Wall climber
NYC
  Sep 7, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
F*#KING STOKEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!
Cant wait to have a niad go when im back in the valley, we'll see if i can match up with you young guns! ha haaa

After finishing the nose, i know you are already making new bigwall missions, maby some bigwall camping eah?

CRUSH

-jay
10b4me

Social climber
Lida Junction
  Sep 7, 2013 - 04:22pm PT
what Mark said
cmclean

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
  Sep 9, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Congrats Leslie and Vinnie! It was cool to meet you in Dogpatch. Psyched to see you cruised the Nose! You guys were way too chipper on the summit. ;-)
Go