Trip Report
6 Easy Trad Pitches on Moro Rock..Seki
Monday June 22, 2015 10:43pm


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North West Side of Moro Rock
North West Side of Moro Rock
Credit: Radish
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Sometimes its just for fun. No angst building up during the week about a weekend climb coming up. No worries about partners or pre-dawn starts. Just fun! I got to take 3 friends, who had done some climbing before , on their first Multi pitch trad route this last weekend on Moro Rock.
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Getting a late and relaxing start....
Getting a late and relaxing start....
Credit: Radish
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I offered to lead and they could just come along and manage the ropes and gear. We were also giving our friend Jen a goodbye gift for her last day in the area before moving on to Colorado.
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Easy, Pleasey but lots of exposure!
Easy, Pleasey but lots of exposure!
Credit: Radish
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We started late on the north end of the parking lot and went down the west side with the mandatory trad bushwhack. We came to the long ramp that we crab walked down for about 200’, 4th class. We got to the base of the climb and did ‘The Link’ and ‘ The Off-ramp’ routes up to the stairs in about 6 pitches.
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Real Nice Climbing on the upper pitches with good belays....
Real Nice Climbing on the upper pitches with good belays....
Credit: Radish
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Probably one move of 5.7 and the rest pretty nice 5.6 . Good Pro all the way up in a crack . A perfect day for moving on the rock!
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Ledge with a View!
Ledge with a View!
Credit: Radish
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It was all smiles when we got to the top, actually it was all smiles all day long!
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All Hands on Rock......
All Hands on Rock......
Credit: Radish
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These Smiles are for YOU!
These Smiles are for YOU!
Credit: Radish
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They were going to take me to dinner on the way home and instead we ended up sitting in the parking lot till way late, right there on the asphalt, eating crackers with goat cheese, as I drank my reward 40oz
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Opp's, there was one part I'll have to tell you about later.........
Opp's, there was one part I'll have to tell you about later.........
Credit: Radish
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and we were digging life in a big way …..Highly recommended Fun Day!!

  Trip Report Views: 2,425
Radish
About the Author
Radish is a trad climber from SeKi, California.

Comments
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jun 22, 2015 - 10:55pm PT
someone was pulling your leg? :)
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 23, 2015 - 03:28am PT
Very nice, looks like a great day out!!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jun 23, 2015 - 04:29am PT
What are those blue shoes I the last picture ? They look to be the ticket !
Nice not to chase the numbers. Seems like fine fun . Thanx for sharing.
Nanobody

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
  Jun 23, 2015 - 07:50am PT
Love it! Look like an enjoyable, relaxing climb
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jun 23, 2015 - 08:08am PT
Three stars on the fun-meter! Thanks for sharing a seldom seen route. I've eyeballed that link up for years, but have never actually been there. Good times. Mellow climbing, good friends, goat cheese. The best kind of adventure.


Scott
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Author's Reply  Jun 23, 2015 - 10:44am PT
A few particulars I forgot....The East Side of Moro has a Peregrine Closure till August. The Moro Road is closed on the weekends and accessible only by the Free Shuttle leaving from Giant Forest where you can park. They close the road at 9am so you can go early and park still. The 'Offramp' upper part of the route is also a Rap Route to Zocalo Ledge where you can access all the harder longer West Face routes. There are good anchors with the first starting at the first view West you get, just on the left.
http://southernsierraclimber.blogspot.com/ My Climbing Blog

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/ Limpingcrab's Website....Lots of Great Info.

http://www.vertical20.com/ EC Joe's Website with lots of good stuff
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 23, 2015 - 12:28pm PT
Moro is a damn great formation. Hope to climb on it more often! And wish EC Joe's routes on it were not sooooo runout! :)
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 23, 2015 - 01:36pm PT
Thanks, radish, for the excellent TR. My father carried me to the top in 1951 when I was a few months old, and claimed he was therefore the impetus for my love of the mountains. The only time I was back was about three years ago with my best friend (other than my wife), who gave me my first belay in 1967, but we were in the Park solely to hike. I now see why I need to return with climbing in mind.

Moosedrool, what route were you considering?

John
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Jun 23, 2015 - 04:14pm PT
Does Moro get climbed a lot these daze? I remeber the few routes I climbed were pretty lichey (5.8 range).
justinp

Trad climber
Three Rivers, Ca
  Jun 23, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
Nice Rene - good to see you get some fellow parkies out
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Jun 24, 2015 - 11:30am PT
Doesn't get much better!

Is that descent route you took very bush-whacky?
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
  Jun 24, 2015 - 04:01pm PT
Big ups, Rene! Livin' it and lovin" it!
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Author's Reply  Jun 24, 2015 - 04:53pm PT
Thanks! Moro gets some traffic these days and why not, you climb up and go down the stairs..pretty cool actually. But, like I said the East Face is closed and its the coolest temps this time of year for climbing. Some climbs over there that I don't hear of anyone doing are...'Biscuits and Gravy' 10....'Glow with the Flow'5.9 the First ascentist added a bolt or two after he put it up and reclimbed it. And 'Piece de Renaissance' is just a couple of aid moves away from being free. There's also 'Ladies on Top' 5.8 full value. And, down just alittle from 'Bear Damage' is 'Arc of a Biner' 5.9 alot more bang for you buck than all the top ropes in that area and rarely if ever done these days.

So, the West face is pretty hot this time of year and the best times really are spring and fall and now winter too. 'The Bottom Line' is a great and classic vertical knob climb of several pitches that doesn't get done.. 'Whistler' is a great and burly 5.11 and there's a new route thats getting some traffic that sounds like its going to be a go to place.

Limpingcrab.....Yes the bushwack is a thrash and follows a bear trail for alittle bit. The goal here is to hit the top of the ramp and its now diguised in Manzanita and hard to see but you have to be careful not to go too low!
Two Shoes....Barry...Good to hear from you and I miss seeing you!!

All this said and the biggest problem on Moro, besides some of the runouts, is the Old Bolts!! Beware and check beta before your faced with a rusty 1/4 incher over a big fall!!
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Jun 24, 2015 - 05:41pm PT
Only the routes left of and including full metal jacket on the east face are closed. There's still good climbing in the shade over there! I'll get that side on the site soon. I spent a day last week trying to get a good pic for an overlay but couldn't get an unobstructed view so I think I'll just make a topo :/
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Author's Reply  Jun 24, 2015 - 08:45pm PT
One last study of the West Face of Moro taken today....
jonnyrig

climber
  Jun 25, 2015 - 08:30am PT
Thanks for sharing!
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