Mark Hudon
Trad climber
On the road.
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Skot Richards and I climbed the West Face route in two days, car to car, during the third week of October, 2011 and had a great time. We saw an incredible shoot star and then in the morning were visited by a Peregrine Falcon who had just snatched a Swift out of the air and came to have breakfast with us on Ahwahnee Ledge.
I was really surprised at how good and fun the climbing was on the route.
There are a few deadheads and broken pins someone could remove, but all in all the route was pretty clean. We had 70m ropes and had no trouble linking the logical pitches.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Copperheads were fine sunday. Loose block is well situated on flat ground, saw the rope under it. What an incredible route, found lots of opportunities to free climb out of the aiders. Did it in 13 hour push.
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alleyehave
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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We replaced the fixed rope on the 4th class traverse on 08/20/2012. First pitch fixed gear is missing. A very reachy cliffhanger hook move got us through. Apparent fixed gear missing on pitch 5 as I had to use an inverted cam hook, super bomber though...fun route.
Afternoons in August can be hot, bring an awning!!
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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As of april 9th, no hammer or cheater stick was needed.
I just got off WFLT and rappeled the route. When I got to the base of the first pitch, I lowered the pig off of the tree just to the climber's right of the start of the bolt ladder. This worked great with 1 60m dynamic and and a 60m (200') static line. It felt like the pig went slack about 20' from the end of the rope, but it was night time so I couldn't see anything. When I took the pig off belay I didn't hear it fall either so I think it was down. Anyways, just my experience. Maybe they lowered from the tree right at the base of the climb and that is higher relative to the ground Chris? I can't swear the pig was on the ground, but I'm pretty sure it made it with about 380' of rope which is what I read somewhere. Beware of tossing the ropes since mine landed in a bush 30' off the deck but I was able to easily able to pull it down (luckily).
Rappeling the route is not so easy. On the first day I saw two guys try it, and coming down to the pitch 8 anchors they were way out in space and couldn't get into the wall and appeared to have had to jug back up and stay the night on top and go down the descent chimney.
My wife and I were lazy and didn't want to haul, so we fixed a line between the pitch 8 anchor and the pitch 10 anchor in order to rappel. We topped out and rappelled right back down the route in 3 rappels back to Awanahee. The first rappel (pitch 10 to pitch 8) I was probably anywhere from 35-50' out from the pitch 8 anchor and had to set up a full jumar (on the rope we fixed) to get back into the anchor. Pitch 8 to pitch 6 I had to keep bouncing past the overhang. I was probably swinging a good 30' away from the wall but it worked and I got two finger tips into a belay bolt and managed to clip myself in. If I had lost my swinging momentum I would have been screwed. From there it was pretty easy, but there are fixed ropes on the first two pitches to get you back into the anchors.
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Leo Houlding
Advanced climber
San Diego
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Below is an article I wrote for On the Edge and short piece with the facts. Perhaps there might be something of use to you in there.
Yes it is true that my Tower exploits began with an aborted solo attempt of Wet Denim. I was gonna do it an a push but after leading the pitch off Ahwahnee I decided that aid climbing was "Like climbing without all the good bits" so I turned my attention to the beautiful ramp pitch on the West face. Jason Pickles and Javier Sepulveda were aiding the West Face so I teamed up with them and just failed to onsight the ramp that same afternoon. Free climbing is my thing.
The roof is on of the wildest clip-up's I have ever done.
The route is of Astroman quality but a couple of numbers harder.
THE WESTIE FACE
The first free ascent of the West face of the Leaning tower by Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles
On Wednesday 16th May 2001 Jason Pickles and I made the first free ascent of the West Face of the Leaning tower. First climbed by Warren Harding in 1953 with a heavy use of bolts, Royal Robbins called the Tower "the steepest wall in North America".
Comparable in angle to Kilnsey North Buttress but a thousand feet high … you get the picture!
Harding’s rusty bolts were replaced by the American safe climbing association in 1997, good work boys.
The initial insanely steep bolt ladder remains an aid pitch and will never go free (so prove me wrong). The free climbing begins where the bolt ladder ends at a small ledge in a shallow, steep groove. The crux pitch a 160 foot, 5.13b (E7 6c) leads one on to the Ahwahnee ledge. A five star perch named after the exclusive Hotel in the Valley.
An unusual hanging ramp pitch then a full sixty metre stamina fest, both around 5.12c bring you to the big roof. It’s size is deceptive but whenyou pull into the back of it it’s scale is clear. About twenty feet of horizontal laybacking then another twenty feet of bridging up a forty five degree overhanging groove. Every hold a jug, the it’s a wild pitch. Extremly exposed E6 6c(5.13a).
A final typically steep corner completes the outstanding, sustained route. The increadible view of El Cap from obtained the summit makes the final mantle perhaps the most spectacular topout in the world.
Achievable in a day and of a semi-sport natrue this route is set to become a classic of its grade.
Several days later we made the fastest aid ascent of the same route whilst retrieving a jammed rope. 1 hour 59 minutes sheds a considerable 1.20 off the previous speed record. The same afternoon Jason caught his bus out of the Valley.
The next afternoon Jason Singer and I climbed the Nose of El Capitan. Leaving the café at 12 noon, without head torches we began climbing at 12.40. On the third pitch I narrowly avoided a monster fall by catching a tiny ledge 10 feet into the 120 foot screamer! Not the best way to start a speed ascent. In our fifth hour we passed a party who was on their fifth day. Topping out at 7.42 we made it down just before dark.
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Jim
Novice climber
San Diego
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anyone know what the descent is like if it has already snowed?
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Chris McNamara
Big Wall climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Hey Jim, the gully will be no fun with snow in it. You may have to leave some gear behind if some of the anchors are burried under the snow - all depends on how much snow. Generally, not much snow accumulates in the gully unless there have been many back-to-back storms.
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I know cuz I've done it too many times
Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Combine every 2 pitches from the start of the route - easily done w/ a 60m rope. Rapping the route is not a problem from anywhere except the last big ledge below the final 4th class "pitch" (clipping bolts down the bottom 2 pitches is necessary).
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bob
Novice climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Oops try this:
<a href="http://www.desertusa.com/mag01/mar/papr/ringt.html">ringtail cat</a>
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Steve Ehrenberg
Intermediate climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Do it in a push! No bivies! Start at midnight and carry only the ropes, the rack, and a days worth of water with a little extra for the descent. No sun for the hike up, and NO PIG!! The bolt ladders and pitches 3/4 are no problem in the dark. Pitch 5 can be tricky. We did it in 18 hours car-to-car, and my partner and I were no superstars. If your well rested and reasonably competent you should be able to shave several hours off our time as we slowed considerably once we reached Awahnee. We linked everything except 9 & 10, which would link without excessive drag if you know how to use a sling. The key is getting to Awahnee and starting pitch 5 before everyone on the ledge wakes up. This way your not stuck behind anyone.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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the second-to-last rappel station for Leaning Tower (about 150' off the ground) has a 1/4" buttonhead with Leeper backing up a small tree and that it's kind of sketchy for rapping with a pig.
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Neil
Gym climber
Here and there
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As of March 16th, the gully is free of snow. The cheater stick wasn't needed (none of the heads have pulled). The sun came on the route about 1:15.
Neil
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Did this route on June 16&17. We had the route and Ahwanee to ourselves!
I'm still curious about something. A couple guys who had done the wall in a push the day before told us that all heads were intact and that a hammer wouldn't be needed. I was a bit unsure and threw the hammer and a few heads in the bottom of the bag anyways. I guess it was a good thing.
My partner opted for leading pitch 1 and ran in to difficulties almost immediately at the small roof after the first bolt ladder. He spent a long time trying this from different angles and finally decided to bail and down aided back to to the belay. I went up to have a look, thinking that surely he must have missed something. It's supposed to be pretty easy C1F right? I was a bit stymied as well and we were burning way too much time on what was supposed to be one of the easiest pitches on the route. I saw a small groove that would take a copperhead and I could see a faint greenish oxide that indicated that a copperhead had once been there. I brought up the hammer and heads and got to place my first head ever.(Thanks for the tutorial a few months ago Chris!) We were on our way. The rest of the route went with out incident. Linked almost all pitches except 9 and 10.
So my question is...to anyone who has done this route recently, what kind of fixed gear do you remember being present at this spot?
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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I mainly asked that question just out of personal curiosity. It won't affect your ability to get up the route.
I was just interested in finding out if I successfully replaced fixed gear that had previously existed or simply added more junk to an already over fixed route. It looks like someone had drilled a shallow bat hook hole very close to where I placed the head. I didn't seem to have a hook that would work with that hole but maybe that was just my inexperience.
The route is very straight forward. The best beta I could offer is to link as many pitches as possible. This would be especially true in September when you'll have shorter days.
Oh...and as already mentioned, don't leave food or gear unattended near the base. The bears seem to love playing havoc in this location. I had 16 liters cached in a spot that no one would ever find and covered with large rocks that required two people to move. When I came back a week later, the rocks were moved, there were a couple of torn stuff sacks and 4 liters remaining. Doh!...back to the car for another roundtrip approach hike.
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Mike
climber
San Rafael, CA
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Nice work on the route, David - what a jewel, eh?
Sounds like you saw the BAT hook after the last (camo) hanger below where the head used to be. You can reach up from the hook and get a green Alien up high (in the left trending horizontal part of the crack), or even reach it from the bolt (if ya got abs of steel, I gave it up last time).
Any other spots that require trickery? Are any of the hanger nuts loose? Thanks...
Way to go, homie. Nice send. Stoked you got the ledge.
Mike
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Salami
Trad climber
Bay Area
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This is what I found on Pitch 1.
same spot no fixed gear, topstepped in aiders and found a small Horz. crack about a foot higher and to the left of where you most likely placed the head.
in that crack a 00 or 0 TCU fits, this is a body weight placement only don't expect much but (also hold it in with your hand) it gets you to where you can place another small TCU in the vertical crack before the fixed gear starts up again. All other parties that we talked to in the area just stick clipped through it.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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I just got this piece of feedback from a SuperTopo user:
There is a serious error on the Supertopos Leaning Tower topo. The error is related to the distance recorded to the ground from the base of the first pitch of the West Face route. The distance is recorded at 400 feet, however we used a 55m and 70m rope tied together, 125m (412 feet) and the ropes DID NOT reach the ground. We then returned and used a 70m and 60m rope tied together, 130m (429 feet) and JUST made the ground with all the rope stretch.
I am confident about our rope lengths as we measured them against other ropes after this incident. Please verify this information for yourself, but it seems that the rappel is definitely long than the stated 400 feet.
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matty
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Hello All-
Just wondering if it is possible to do the descent with only 1 60m rope? If so is it safe?? Thanks-
Matt
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Mike
climber
Mill Valley, CA
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The gully descent can be rapped with a single 60m rope.
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david_webb_aus
Big Wall climber
Canberra Australia
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Have just left the valley and rate the West Face of Leaning Tower. There are a few fixed heads with broken wires up there.
Just to let people know. I thought the decent was about 2.5 hours nowhere near 3 hours. That is just my 2 cents worth.
Cheers
Dave
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malabarista
Trad climber
Canberra Australia
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Ricardo,
I climbed this route in July for my first wall. I would bring the hammer (we didn't). I lost a couple of nuts that I could not clean without it.
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Mike
climber
Canberra Australia
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A tiny hammer like Pika's NutBuster is mandatory for tapping out previously weighted nuts. You can use a cam in a pinch.
No rivet hangers needed. You could bring one #3 cable rivet hanger (cinch-style is best) or wired nut to back up the loose, old SMC hanger on the bolt on P7 (loop the cable around the bolt hanger and onto the fat bolt so the cable can sit against the wall).
Forget the heads. HB/RP brass nuts, a hand-placed beak, micro cams and ingenuity should get you past any broken heads/pins, and there are several on the route. A couple of pins look pretty bad, but should hold your body weight famously.
No cheat stick either, Ricardo. You want to DO this wall, right? You'll be way more stoked on the summit without it - not to mention you won't need it, as Mel confirms.
All the pitches from Evil Tree Roof down can be rapped without monumental difficulty. The first 200' (2 pitches) are the steepest - if you rap that, have your partner lower you so you can clip short directional draws with hands free and let the "second" remove them on his way down.
Don't forget the bonus bivi at the summit ledge! Have fun...
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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going to attempt this route next week .. i have some questions .. (bear with me -- its my first wall)
1. heads .. thinking for throwing 3 of each size in the bag just in case.. (is that enough?)
2. rivet hangers .. are any needed? (i think the answer is no, but i might as well ask)
3. cheat stick. I'd like do all the moves, i'm 5'7" .. should i throw a helper stick in the bag.. or just some take some tape and rig something up with the hammer en-route?
 ricardo
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Ricardo...
Warren Harding was a little guy. This is good beta for any of his bolt ladders. ;-) You won't NEED the cheat stick. I used the cheat stick to snag fixed gear just out of my reach on the roofs. I didn't absolutely need to, so I loose style points.
I bailed from this route once before sending...The telescoping cheat stick was most useful then at speeding up my egress.
My controversial, poor style, have fun, go light choice for the route...bring the stick, skip the hammer.
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David Weaver
Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
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Anyone happened to do this route recently (ie this winter)? We're thinking of giving it a go in a week or so. What was the sun exposure in winter, and how much gnarly snow is on the descent/approach? Think we'll find the descent anchors, or are we going to be rapping off of dead-manned hexes, hammers, and a few bollards?
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Mike
climber
Orange County CA
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DW, Sun hits the route briefly in the afternoon in Winter. Gaiters and maybe snow pants on the approach; the deepest snow is usually around the base before directly under the route, but not bad unless after back-to-back dumps, then it can be thigh-deep in that area. Snow-covered talus blocks are the approach crux in Winter - try to stay on route because the blocks are pretty big off route.
Raps off the back:
You can do one shorty to the tree then a long one (nearly 60m) all the way (trending south) to some third class (100' or so) that leads to the mouth of the true gully. Alternately, there is a mid-point anchor on the slab about 130' (?) below the tree and slightly climber's right (north) at a stance (this will likely be the only rap anchor possibly covered with snow). Look for the first gully anchor on the right side of the gully on the wall. Even in heavy snow the gully anchors are all visible, mostly on skier's left (note that alternate anchors exist which enable rapping with one rope, shorter raps work better in most cases in the gully). Eventually when the gully widens, trend skier's left (possibly some 3rd) to some trees above the main face, then 3 raps down this exposed slab to the ground near the approach.
Have fun!
PS: The West Face route has not gone free as erroneously reported below.
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Cowboy
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Anyone been up there yet hows the fixed gear?
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Cowboy- theres tons! clean my wires and my black alien for me!
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Cowboy- theres tons! clean my wires and my black alien for me!
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Mike
climber
Orange County CA
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Yet? It's as good as ever.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Too bad I couldn't get out those other toys you left Clayman! Then I could have given them back to you.
Cowboy: Read the post right under yours. I could have sworn that my first sentence answered your question!
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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So is the 4 inch piece on pitch number 10 absolutely neccesary, or is there a reasonable aid trick (hook, topstep, etc) to get by that one section? Or perhaps.. any of yall know how hard this one move would go free climbing?
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taco bill
Trad climber
boulder, co
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We inadvertently took nothing bigger than a #2 camalot and were fine. There is a chopped bolt at the wide part that you can use the tiniest cable rivet hanger on to get high enough to place a #2. That said, a #3 would have been easier, but isn't essential.
Enjoy,
adam
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Wheatus
Trad climber
CA
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Climbed the West Face starting May 11th. Very enjoyable steep route with easy hauling. Lots of fixed gear everywhere on the route. Aliens and Alien Hybrids made the C2 sections easy. I only needed one 4" piece for pitch 10. Almost missed the rap anchors for the two last raps from LT gully. I kept going down the low angle ramp and ended up out on a blank face with no anchors. I back tracked up the ramp and then saw the anchors on a wide ledge off the the right (facing the gulley). The last rap from a tree could use a new bolted anchor. About ten old slings hung from the tree backed up by a thirty year old button head bolt.
We saw very few people on the route midweek. Peregrine Falcons were fighting and diving by us several times during the climb. My partner saw a five foot long corral snake in the talus just before the falls.
Dear Chris,
Thanks for all the bomber bolts by ASCA. The amount of effort in bolt replacement on the West Face is amazing. I also like the signature ASCA bolt hangers. Your work at ASCA is truly admirable. I am sending a donation today to ASCA. My family and I thank you for your efforts.
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HalHammer
Trad climber
CA
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Aye, I just did it last weekend. We were fine with just bringing one #3. We definitely could have got by reasonably with #2 camalots in those same places.
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poop_tube
Trad climber
CA
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Unless you are soloing, I don't recommend that pitches 9 and 10 should be linked due to severe rope drag.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Link 9 and 10...I just did it yesterday. Use lots of draws and long slings and be smart about it and the rope drag is no problem at all.
As a side note:
The fixed lines on the first two pitches need to be cut down. We would have but there was a party below us.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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I brought the big artillary, a 3.5 and 4 rigid friend. I wasted them on pitch 9 becuase a fixed bong was giving me bad juju. BTW, I din't see the need for many of these fixed pins to be there in the splitter crack. If those ever get cleaned then you'll need a few big pieces to go crack jugging with.
When I got to pitch 10's first roof with the chopped bolt I was ble to get by with just a #3 friend (#2 camalot) out at the lip of the roof. A big piece here would make it casual, but is not mandatory. When I weighted the next piece (good red alien) my aiders kick the friend out of its meager purchase (ow, ow my sphincter!).
Later on pitch 10 is a fat crack that would be cake with a 3.5 camalot or #4 friend, but I got by with a red camalot, #11 stopper, and a #2 camalot. I hit this about 2 hours AFTER sunset, having lead all but one of the previous pitches. Seeing a fat crack and a skinny rack made my head explode. I first tried a red alien where the nut ended up. The spot is a picture perfect bottlenecked placement I excavated form under bird crap. The bird crap must have polished it, because that red alien folded up and shot out the bottom of the bottleneck into my face three god damn times before I placed the nut in utter disbelief.
As you exit onto the summit ledge put some duct tape or something in the crotch between the final roof and the ledge. Otherwise the rope can get wedged in. I got to the anchor before this happened, and thought my partner died when it took over an hour for the line to go tight (he was jugging, but the crotch was taking all the weight).
With good planning linking 9 and 10 would not have been bad, I didn't plan. Be very careful clipping any of the bolts or pins at the pitch 9 anchor with anything less than a 4' sling. Backcleaning right above the anchor is scary when you are staring down at the ledge.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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An assortment of hooks (logan or talon, skyhook, and fish hook) makes some sections easy that otherwise would be hard. e.g. the top of the 3rd pitch getting to the belay is a couple pretty easy hook moves or you need to free climb (not so easy with hiking boots and an aid rack.)
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fareastclimber
climber
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Beta from the 5th of June. Alot of fixed gear is gone although it is possible to bypass the missing gear. A Japanese party nailed up the day before placing a number of beaks and copperheads - now making it somewhat less of a challenge for future parties. Fixed ropes connect Awhanee and Guano Ledges.
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bryan howell
Boulder climber
san diego, ca
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The very first moves off of the pitch 6 beley ( or if you are linking 5/6, then just after the intermidiate beley), looks like somebody, just recently, chopped 3 bolts that start the ladder back to the left. This is the easy 5.7 terrain where Chris Mac suggests a cam hook. That placement is VERY obvious, but its the moves after it that are now touch. We did 3 or 4 hook moves with Talans, and grapplings to get to the first bolt.
WFLT has a rep of being a great, easy, first wall for folks. These moves are not the case.
Wondering what happened to those bolts? Why did they chop them flush instead of least leaving the bolt? Why not drill the hole all the way out to make bat hooking a possibility?
any input would be nice.
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lunchbox
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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I think the some of those bolts were part of the old belay and have been gone for quite some time. Looks like they have just been consolidated into a more convenient anchor. If the first bolt of the ladder was on the blankish face above blocky terrian then you were on the right track. If those were lead bolts that were chopped then they were added after W. Harding did the FA and were rightly chopped. Maybe they should have pulled and patched the holes, but that's a different topic.
If your drilling bat hook hole then maybe you should just place a rivet. If your going to place a rivet then why not a bolt? Holes are holes and new holes on old routes is a big no no
I soloed the route about 3 weeks ago (aug.20.05) and I free climbed from the belay to the first bolt on the ladder. Must have been at least 20 feet with a cruxie move right before the bolt. Spicy, but no harder than 5.7 or 5.8. My friends did the route a year ago and reported the same thing.
I think the hook moves can be avoided if you free climb. If hooking, your looking at C2+ and would most certainly be harder than the rest of the aid on the climb, but some people would rather hook than free climb. So the choice is yours.
Sounds like you guys handled it just fine anyways.
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Dr Von Boveridge
Trad climber
ca
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My friend and I climbed this route just before Lynn Hill & Katy Brown freed it. Watching them free pitches as we tested standing on gear was quite the humbling experience.
On the way down from the summit in that gulley i dropped a #4 forged friend (blue marker tape) it was pitch black and we were working with only one head lamp (long story). Any chance anyone picked it up. Normally I would just say that’s life but this was my lucky cam and has been with me since I first started climbing (Q violins).
Anyway any info on its wear abouts would be appreciated i would be willing to swap something else for its return.
Cheers
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lunchbox
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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sorry Doc, i didn't see your cam on the way down..
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cmclean
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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I did this route on Saturday. There was enough fixed gear that no cheater stick or heads were necessary.
The supertopo suggests bringing either a grappling hook or a cliffhanger, for the last move before the pitch 9 belay, and apparently they can be used starting off the 6th pitch. These hook moves can be skipped if you're willing to get out of your aiders and do a few free moves.
This route is strenuous! Get an early start and make sure you bring enough water, because once the sun hits the wall in the afternoon it cooks you all the way until sunset.
The supertopo says for the chimney raps "the next 5 or 6 rappels can be done with 2 50m or one 60m rope." There are actually a few more raps after those loose, low-angle ones mentioned. The station that has 2 bolts next to a tree can reach all the way to the ground if you use 2 60m ropes, rather than stopping half way down the face to a hanging station with 2 bolts.
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Luvshaker
climber
eugene
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Pitch 5 was the definate crux of the route. Not much fixed on the traverse. I was ready to launch into runout free moves then the spincter tightned up, backed off, then found a sweet z1 cam placement and a hook move to get through. Could have used offset aliens many times on the route, but didn't have um.
If I went back I would try and free pitch 7 which looked very climbable at .11 with excellent pro the whole way.
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bonin_in_the_boneyard
Trad climber
Land of the Has Been
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This was my partner's and my first grade V. It was incredible. We started the approach at 1am Saturday morning and got back to the car at midnight Monday morning, and even made it in to work a few hours later. I tell you, I have new respect for aid climbers and big-wallers. Especially considering that this is a teeny-tiny little wall!
I have no beta to add for this route. I figure if a wall gumby like me can make it up uneventfully, there can't be any really bad spots on it -- although there was a lot of fixed gear that I didn't ponder having to make do without. We didn't bring anything for nailing. I also carried free climbing shoes on pitches 5-6 and 9-10 (linked). Was glad I did.
I found a single knee pad on the way out and since there was no one else on the route I just threw it in the pack. If anyone wants to claim it just drop me a line.
Happy climbing all,
-b
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