West Face, Leaning Tower C2F 5.7

Yosemite Valley, California USA

Currently 4.0/5

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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:	1 2 3 4 5	(4.0)
Average Customer Rating:	1 2 3 4 5	(4.2)
Your Rating:	1 2 3 4 5	(none)

Rating Distribution

30 Total Ratings

5 star:		(10)
4 star:		(16)
3 star:		(4)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(0)

Josh P

Big Wall climber

Santa Cruz

Oct 27, 2017 - 12:58pm

Does anyone have any beta on the alternate descent off the Leaning Tower? The one that crosses Bridalveil Creek. With this big storm coming we are thinking about switching from a Nose climb to Wet Denim to stay dry, but that descent gully seems like it would turn into horrendous waterfall with big rocks coming down it.
Or any alternate descent for that matter.

Thank yeh...

Moof

Big Wall climber

Orygun

Nov 28, 2015 - 06:22pm

On P1 at the C1F section from the bat hook or knifeblade you have to lean WAY out and get an OK horizontal green-yellow offset alien. Your feet will go into space as to commit to this cam, which is a little freaky. From there it is a black or blue alien to regain C1 happiness, then bolts. The offset alien will not inspire confidence. Heck, the knifeblade was super flexy all on its own...

One time a bailer had left his alien there and I was able to just barely clip it from the last bolt, but that is a whole other story...

P3 is the crux in my opinion as well, worse when there are no heads, but still doable. P5 has more tricky moves to figure out, but fewer sketchy placements in a row.

max kruzic

Big Wall climber

Bishop, CA

Nov 28, 2015 - 01:59pm

jrc - awesome you guys got back at it. I was the soloist above you and hope everything turned out ok with your climbing partner's medical issue. I ended up topping out to the helicopters getting retardant on my rope from the fire... To clarify, I wasn't suggesting any of you guys bail on the original attempt just wanted to relay that the section was still very climbable having done it that morning and that the bolt ladder pitch is one of the easiest on route. I think pitch 3 is the crux personally. Glad you guys had a good time on round two!

jrc

Trad climber

Bay Area, Ca

Nov 24, 2015 - 11:25am

The party in front of us a few weeks ago ran into the same problem. They got stuck after taking a couple falls trying to figure out how to get past the bulge. When it became clear they were going to be taking a while and maybe some key fixed gear had pulled, I jugged the fixed line to the left of the route (a free variation by-pass?). When I got to the top of SuperTopo pitch 2 a soloist above me said that was the easiest pitch on the route and they better bail if they couldn't get around the bulge. They bailed, and so did we after my partner developed some medical issues while jugging to ST belay #2. My curiosity was peaked, however, and with the soloist above me exclaiming how great super topo pitches 3 and 4 were, I couldn't wait to come back and try the bulge and get on pitches 3 and 4.

Finally got back on it this past weekend and lead every pitch. The bulge on pitch one was surprisingly easily passed with a medium size beak. This made me really happy! I believe there was a section on 3 or 4 where I used the medium beak again twice and distinctly remember using an offset X4 placed upside down. I noticed I used the hybrid 2/3 X4 (blue/yellow) at least twice on every pitch. Never used any cam hooks in spite of the recommendation. I took a fall on supertopo pitch 5 half way across the diagonal c2 section just after the lower out. Placed the trusty 2/3 x4 and it blew shortly after I started walking up on it. Fortunately had just placed a bomber yellow TCU. Went back in with a metolius 0/00 and it held. We brought a #5 Camelot and I used it 3 times on the last pitch. I dont know if it was 100% necessary but I used it twice in the initial roof section and buried it in the middle of the wide section half way up that pitch. I was happy to have it but think I could have made due with out.

All in all, I really loved this route. We weren't fast by any means, but we kept to the nominal schedule and I had a great time on every pitch.

Studly

Trad climber

Oct 15, 2015 - 03:35pm

Same thing happened to us a few years back. We were told that some free climbers had been working the moves, and had cleaned the heads there, so we were prepared with a stickclip.

optiman

climber

Oct 15, 2015 - 03:15pm

Disclaimer: I am not some awesome aid climber...

Has anyone climbed this lately and had any trouble on the short, supposedly C1F section between the bolts on the first pitch? A few weeks ago we had some trouble just after the first little roof after the bolts stop. There was a bathole just outside the roof that took a talon nicely, but there was no other obvious place to hook or place any gear. There were the remains of a sheared off pin just above the bathole, but I was still left ~5-8 feet below the closest seam that looked like it could take a nut or cam. There may have been a possibility to hand place a beak or two above the hook, but it didn’t look great. We saw a soloist bail from the same spot later in the day.

I’m sure this section would be no problem for someone better than I am, but I am curious if a key piece of fixed gear recently got cleaned/blew?

Thanks and roast away...

Patrick Sawyer

climber

Originally California, now Ireland

Aug 9, 2014 - 01:45am

No beta, just an observation. My first big wall. Turned 19 (May 29, 1975, had a joint but no matches or lighter) on Ahwhanee Ledge, not many fixed pins at all, very little. Several maybe, at the time. We used most of our rack on every pitch. We swung leads.

I climbed it with some guy, Rod, I met in C4. Never climbed with him before (or after LTWF). We practiced the day before on El Cap Tree then Bishop's Balcony (I led the roof, even though he was the aid climber).

The West Face of Leaning Tower was also his first big wall.

We ran out of water (inexperienced wall climbers) the second day, he ended up drinking the juices from a can of mustard sardines. YECK. Sweet to get to Bridalveil Creek, lapped that up.

Yeah, we went to light the joint to celebrate our first big wall bivvy (Ahwhanee Ledge, it is awesome, better than some places in C4 or nearby dirtbag haunts) and my birthday. As we had not taken a stove, not needing one, Rod nor I thought about fire.

"Where's the joint?" (actually three j's)

"Here, got the matches?"

"No."

"What about a lighter?" (neither of us smoked cigs)

"No."

BUMMER

Anyway, an interesting climb, but if I had to choose my first wall again, I'd probably pick Washington Column South Face - effing Kor, long reach ;-) - or The Prow, at least back in 1975.

EDIT

What is considered a big wall nowadays? At least one bivvy IMO, but nowadays, these super climbers just flash these things.

EDIT

Has the West Face of Leaning Tower become a Via Ferrata?

max kruzic

Big Wall climber

Bishop, CA

Aug 7, 2014 - 08:28am

Did the west face early may 2014 and had a blast. All but one of the fixed heads were blown on the third pitch, which made it pretty interesting and felt stout for C2. With this being my second wall and looking to up the anty later this season, I wanted to get feedback from anyone whos been on this pitch in this condition to get an idea if this is what C3 looks like.

csandova

Trad climber

Berkeley

May 13, 2014 - 12:13pm

Thinking of heading up next week. Any idea about the condition of the fixed gear?

briham89

Big Wall climber

santa cruz, ca

Jun 29, 2013 - 11:48am

Lot's of fixed gear on the route. All the heads were there. Some slings on fixed pins were starting to rot, so bring some extra leaver cord just in case. Fun route. Short for a "big wall." Ahwahnee Ledge is awesome!

Wording on the descent was a little funny regarding the last rap. It sounds like the bolts "climbers left of a tree" is the last rap, which is recommended to be done as a single rap with two 60m ropes.... Well found this rap station right when you exit the gully, and started to rap down it. I passed a tree on the way down with nice bolts and chain, but thought it says not to do multiple raps at this point (even though it looked pretty far) so I went down. Neither my 60 or 70 reached the ground, DOH! So long story short unless I did something funny, that station will not get you to the ground, and stop at the tree mid way down the steep face with bolts to the right of it.

Jacemullen

Trad climber

Oceanside

Jun 27, 2013 - 12:40pm

Did the route 6/22/13-6/23/13 as a team of three and had a hell of a good time. Pitch Three gave me some trouble as according to the supertopo topo there are three bolts on the route. When we did it there was only the first, lowest one. I also only clipped one head. I saw a dead head that looked like it was right were I would have wanted some gear as well as a placement where it looks like a head may have blown out of. Without the bolts/heads this pitch was saucy and felt more like C3- to me. Definitely some funky sh#t happening in order to get to the Pitch 3 bolts. Bring your camhooks for sure.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

On the road.

Feb 1, 2013 - 12:58am

Skot Richards and I climbed the West Face route in two days, car to car, during the third week of October, 2011 and had a great time. We saw an incredible shoot star and then in the morning were visited by a Peregrine Falcon who had just snatched a Swift out of the air and came to have breakfast with us on Ahwahnee Ledge.
I was really surprised at how good and fun the climbing was on the route.
There are a few deadheads and broken pins someone could remove, but all in all the route was pretty clean. We had 70m ropes and had no trouble linking the logical pitches.


	Credit: Skot Richards

PellucidWombat

Mountain climber

Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah

Jan 10, 2013 - 02:14am

It was my partner's rope, not mine, but he swore it has never been cut. I really want to measure that thing before we use it again! Just sayin' with a 60 it might be pretty close, so just make sure your 60 is really a 60!

briham89

Big Wall climber

santa cruz, ca

Nov 7, 2012 - 10:31am

Thanks everyone!

Spanky

Social climber

boulder co

Nov 7, 2012 - 10:25am

When we did it I definitely had a 60 and I linked 1,2 3 and 4, 5 and 6, and 7 and 8. We split 9 and 10 because of rope drag so we did the whole route in 6 pitches easily with a 60 and at the time it was only my second wall so I was definitely still kinda gumby and clipped almost everything. By the way Awahnee was a sweet ledge to sleep on too. have fun and remember. . .

Yer gonna Die!!

j-tree

Big Wall climber

Typewriters and Ledges

Nov 7, 2012 - 09:49am

Have linked P1 and P2 more than once with different 60M ropes and always was able to make it.

Both times were solo though.

RP3

Big Wall climber

Newbury Park

Nov 7, 2012 - 08:50am

I have had no issues linking with a 60

briham89

Big Wall climber

santa cruz, ca

Nov 7, 2012 - 03:34am

Any beta on linking pitches 1 & 2 with a 60m? I thought you could, but PellucidWombat has me worried...Maybe the other post lower down saying it worked were guys with 70m ropes? Thanks in advance

bil

Trad climber

south lake tahoe

Oct 25, 2012 - 12:19pm

I found a camera case with no camera just battery and memory card (mini SD) at the top of pitch 10 on Oct 19 2012. Send me an E-mail with a short description if you want it back (aegerter.nina@gmal.com). Give me a couple days to respond because I don’t check my e-mail often.

PellucidWombat

Mountain climber

Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah

Oct 13, 2012 - 10:38pm

Take care if you're linking P1 & P2 with a 60m rope. We were climbing with a 60m, and at most I left a connection to every other bolt (every third for P2). My climbing partner swore his 60m rope hadn't been cut, so keep in mind how close you might be on available rope when linking these pitches! The picture below is the view I had when I ran out of rope:

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Fortunately my climbing partner worked through this by climbing up to the first bolt and fixing the climbing rope there and downclimbing back to the ledge to lower out the haul bag. Still, hauling was a PITA as I still could barely fix the rope to an extended anchor and my attachment to it limited how high up I could stand (perhaps I should have untied as well . . .).

Moof

Big Wall climber

Orygun

Aug 31, 2012 - 12:09pm

I am pretty sure it is the rope one the traverse to the first pitch in which I say thank you. Full dice section and rope is always there and always f*#ked up. Appreciate the replacement. Good luck on your next adventures!!!
Cheers
Kurtburt

Fixing your own rope is no big deal. Just lead the thing with a modest set of cams and slings and you'll get to shuttle gear on a better rope with more intermediate gear. Maybe adds a half hour total, and adds piece of mind.

hoipolloi

climber

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi

Aug 31, 2012 - 10:38am

I understand. I stand corrected and appologize. And thank you.

I think there are some fixed lines that are "accepted". Some are ridiculous. However those that are accepted, we, as a community, need to maintain and monitor them (which you did and that's great), I know that is a major request of the climbing rangers.

The ahwahnee ones just always bother me, seems unnecessary, easy to string a line there yourself.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Aug 31, 2012 - 02:08am

you don't own any Robbins Boots! buahahaha

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Aug 31, 2012 - 02:06am

I routinely third class that section in robbins boots....

Just sayin.

Burt

Social climber

Angelus Oaks, Ca

Aug 31, 2012 - 01:57am

alleyehave

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Aug 31, 2012 - 01:50am

Seemed like a fairly common question/concern on this beta page, I must have been mistaken. Boohoo... you guys know where its at, take it down. Make sure you head over to the death slabs too...and the approaches on the west of el cap...and blah blah blah

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Aug 31, 2012 - 01:45am

Hoipolloi isn't so anonymous. :)

I think he's trying to point out that we don't need to tell the world about our trash.

alleyehave

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Aug 31, 2012 - 01:35am

Who said anything about guano or awahnee ledges? Are you always this bitter or just when shrouded by the anonymity of the internet? I might leave strew, but youre just a shrew, find something better to do.

hoipolloi

climber

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi

Aug 29, 2012 - 10:18pm

You mean you left more ugly tat strew about the beautiful ahwahnee and guano ledges?

It is a giant ledge on a rock climb, it doesn't need a hand rail.

alleyehave

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Aug 29, 2012 - 08:47pm

We replaced the fixed rope on the 4th class traverse on 08/20/2012. First pitch fixed gear is missing. A very reachy cliffhanger hook move got us through. Apparent fixed gear missing on pitch 5 as I had to use an inverted cam hook, super bomber though...fun route.

Afternoons in August can be hot, bring an awning!!

Sonic

Trad climber

Golden, Co

May 3, 2012 - 06:45pm

[Click to View Linked Image]
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RJM

climber

Plymouth, NH

May 1, 2012 - 09:29am

So hiking boots, mostly positive holds out left then back right, for 25 feet or so on 5.7ish terrain? cool thanks for all of the info guys. Heading there in late may early june, my guess is I will not be alone on the wall.

Cheers,
RJ

matty

Trad climber

Sad the forum is gone =(

Apr 27, 2012 - 05:31pm

I did it in hiking boots just fine...approach shoes will be enough.

RJM

climber

Plymouth, NH

Apr 27, 2012 - 03:46pm

Mike,
Thanks for the awesome info, another question... Climbing shoes needed for the 5.7 at the beginning of P6? or do a good pair of approach shoes cut it? and how long is that free section?

Cheers,

RJ

RJM

climber

Plymouth, NH

Apr 25, 2012 - 09:51am

Looking for info, heading to Valley in 4 weeks. Anyone been up there yet this year? Fixed lines (Catwalk, Ahwahnee), are they there? Condition of bolts on P6, any rivet hangers needed? as well as any info on the rest of the 'fixed heads' etc. and can the chimney rappels really be done with a 70M rope? Thanks for any info y'all have.

Sonic

Trad climber

Golden, Co

Aug 8, 2011 - 10:09am

Awesome route. Did it over Friday/Saturday. Fixed rope is up on the fourth class approach. Had a couple of interesting hook moves but still tons of fixed gear. I'll have a TR and pictures up within a day or so

karodrinker

Trad climber

San Jose, CA

Jun 13, 2011 - 10:56pm

Copperheads were fine sunday. Loose block is well situated on flat ground, saw the rope under it. What an incredible route, found lots of opportunities to free climb out of the aiders. Did it in 13 hour push.

Lambone

Big Wall climber

Ashland, Or

Jun 13, 2011 - 10:06pm

The chimney is full of loose rocks, but I looked and couldn't see the specific block that guy was talking about.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Jun 13, 2011 - 09:53pm

is the big 500 lb block still in the chimney ready to blow? (see beta post below)

Lambone

Big Wall climber

Ashland, Or

Jun 13, 2011 - 09:34pm

Did it 3 weeks ago with no trouble.

Panacea82

Trad climber

Yosemite, CA

Jun 13, 2011 - 08:35pm

Planning on going up this route tomorrow, does anyone know if the fixed heads are still there. I heard that some people were trying to free it and removed the heads Just wondering if there back in now or not.

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

May 18, 2011 - 12:07am

Holy Frig that #3 is SUNK!

Awesome!

jfailing

Trad climber

PDX

May 17, 2011 - 09:35pm

Did this route a few weeks ago - we were the only people on it except for some cats trying to free climb the crux pitches.

Most of the fixed gear is solid, although it takes a little bit of cunning:


	Credit: jfailing

Only the first two raps and the very last two require double 60m rappels. Pretty much every other one can be done with a 60 or 70.

Super fun!

Studly

Trad climber

May 16, 2011 - 01:09pm

Beware As we were were about to do the first of the chimney raps, a team ahead of us rapped past the second anchors and then tried to pull their ropes. (Don't do this, the 2nd anchors are obviously in that spot for a reason.) Their ropes hung on a couple very large boulders in the gully and they destabilized them by pulling on the ropes trying to free them. I rapped in and freed their ropes and threw them down to them, and as I stepped away from the boulders, they and the dirt they were setting on slid and the boulders moved a couple feet, trapping one of my rap ropes, and it was a miracle they did not go and kill the guys below. I had to cut my new haul rope, being careful not to touch the boulders. One of them is just setting there, going to go at a touch, probably 500 pounds, it will clear the whole gully when it goes. It is on the right hand side of the gully as you look down on the very first chimney rap. Piece of blue rope pinched their also will help identify. Be careful!

Knuckles

Trad climber

Everett, Wa

Oct 19, 2010 - 03:50pm

I'd second the core shot which actually isn't too bad but the rope itself is not logically fixed. The rope could/should start a few meters closer to the trail. Seems like the blocks you walk and grab getting to the rope are amongst the sketchiest on the ledge.

And it would be lovely if people would take the extra rope and rebelay off the trees, rather than just wrapping it around once. It wouldn't be pretty if anyone actually fell at any point on the traverse. You're not gonna die but it's going to suck.

Quart

climber

Oct 19, 2010 - 12:39pm

On Oct. 16th there was a big core shot in the fixed rope across the approach ramp and the rope was too short to tie out the wound. There were many 2-liter bottles of water stashed on the approach ramp. Fixed gear was thin on the route, but everything was doable without any trickery. Make sure to bring cam, edge, and bat hooks! Tons of fun!!!

enjoimx

Trad climber

Yosemite

Sep 30, 2010 - 12:13pm

As of 9-30-10 there is a good fixed line for the approach traverse.

The first pitch seam, halfway up, has a missing head that you would need to hook around to bypass. I couldnt figure it out with a beak or a cliffhanger, but I suck at aid climbing.

Slug

Trad climber

Huntington Beach, Ca

Aug 22, 2010 - 02:46pm

The 4rth class and Guano-Ahwahnee both have fixed lines in great condition as of 8/20/10. As far as the heads go, pitch 3 has enough in place to go at C2. Many others apear to have been replaced recently.

Pie

Trad climber

So-Cal

Aug 13, 2010 - 02:41am

how are the fixed heads? Thinking of getting on it next week.

cotton.jon

Trad climber

New Britain, CT

Jul 18, 2010 - 08:11pm

Climbed it on July 4 and 5. Only ones on the route!

Only been up the route that one time, so I don't know the usual condition of the route. Hope some, or any, of this helps.

-Route didn't get sun until about 3PM or so. We brought way too much water.

-No fixed line for the 4th class traverse to the start. A 60m line will get you to the first belay from where the ledge first gets sketchy (there's a cluster of trees and then a tree over a significant gap in the ledge).

-I'm a novice aid climber and had no trouble leading 3 and 4 in the dark, so I assume all of the heads are in place for those pitches.

-5.6 slab at the end of pitch 4 is totally relaxed.

-There is a good fixed line from Guano to Ahwahnee ledge. Ahwahnee ledge is an excellent bivy.

-There are three rappels off the back side from the summit. First two can be done with a single 60m. Need two ropes for the third. I'm assuming the first two can be linked as a double rappel, but not
sure.

-If you're linking where you can (or probably even if you aren't) the longest lower out for the haul bag is at the 8th belay. I didn't measure it, but I'd estimate it's about 60 feet or so.

-There is a fixed rope on the very last rappel of the gully. Has a core shot about 10-15 feet from the ground. Otherwise in good shape.

-Did the route in approach shoes, no real need for free shoes unless you're freeing:)

-Offset nuts and cams (especially yellow-blue MasterCam) were very useful

Moof

Big Wall climber

Orygun

May 19, 2010 - 01:31am

As of early May 2010:

Fixed line on the catwalk was gone.
Fixed heads on P3 were gone.
Fixed pins at the start of P4 were gone.
Fixed line from the top ledge over the notch was gone.

All passable, but a notch more heady than the last two times I went up it.

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Nov 21, 2008 - 01:20am

Here is the story of the third ascent with Layton Kor by Don Lauria - http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=725026

Brendan

Trad climber

Yosemite, CA

Oct 20, 2008 - 04:20pm

Soloed this route 8/17-8/19, here's a little condition update:
There are fixed ropes from the beginning of the "4th class" at the base, leading up to the start of the west face. It is a good idea to harness up. There were also fixed lines between Guano and Awanee ledge.

All fixed pieces I encountered were fine for body weight. Thanks ASCA for doing so much work on that route! Might want to bring a few small copperheads in case some of the old ones blow.

More beta if you want it:

Bring 2 - #3 camalots, don't bring a 4. Waste of weight when the single #4 move is easily bypassed.

0 and 00 BD C3 cams were the Tits. Much harder for my solo without them because my TCUs wouldn't fit.

Bathook and cam hooks were also the tits.

I linked pitches 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 8-9. There is a great belay ledge at the top of 9 that is sweet to hang out and sit at, enjoy the exposure, eat, and get some blood back in your legs.

STAY ALL THE WAY RIGHT (facing up the gulley) on the descent especially after the chimney widens and then ends. There are three Anchors going down the final rapells after the chimney ends at a cliff edge, the first of which is just above a tree to the right. They are approximately every 25-30 meters, so you can rap with one 60.

Great solo route. Exposed, lonley, and fun!

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Oct 17, 2008 - 04:23pm

Great photos trip report here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=699304

poop_tube

Big Wall climber

33° 45' N 117° 52' W

Oct 5, 2008 - 11:58pm

Hey Hommies,

I did this two weeks ago with my buddies Jacob Goldsmith and Ryan Moore. It was their first wall, they hadn't done any aiding or anything before this. They did friggin AWESOME! I had a blast with you guys up there, cheers bros!

AAARRRR

Kia

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZCnnMFVv46k

Steve Wolford

Trad climber

White Salmon, WA

Apr 19, 2008 - 12:21pm

Thank you for the update.

Lambone

Big Wall climber

Ashland, Or

Apr 19, 2008 - 05:26am

The gully is clear as of 4/9/08. Some snow to skirt at the very top of the notch, no big deal. But the gully itself is dry, it is south facing and gets a fair bit of sun.

Steve Wolford

Trad climber

White Salmon, WA

Apr 18, 2008 - 11:12am

Has anyone done the Leaning Tower yet this year? As would like to know the condition of the descent gully. From the looks of the webcams in the Valley, it might be snow and ice filled.

Moof

Big Wall climber

Orygun

Nov 27, 2007 - 01:27am

Clustiere,

I bailed twice from Awhanee ledge, and it is not as bad as you would think, if you know your sh#t. Going from 10 to 8 would be a bear, but 8 to 6 isn't too bad at all. From 6 to 4 would be best done without the bag first, as it is a bunch of swinging, but still not bad. 4 to 2 is a straight shot (rap from Guano Ledge), easy with bags. Most folks worry about 2 to ground.

Without bags you can get to P1 belay easily with just a few draws. From there to the bottom I used maybe a half dozen more draws (about 10 total). Again, light swinging as I didn't need to do more. Once at the bottom you can anchor the ropes and ascend the fixed line and clean the pitch. If you have a partner he can rap the second line as soon as you anchor them at the bottom, or if solo descend with the pig after cleaning using both ropes. Either way lower down to just below anchor level and haul yourself in hand over hand (have a daisy handy and ready to clip!). Lowering the bags from the first live tree on the catwalk (not the dead tree or those bolts) takes about 370-380' of rope (2 60m's left me with about 25' to spare), and they land right between the two "booty bushes" at the base of the stone.

billygoat

climber

Pees on beard to seek mates.

Nov 23, 2007 - 01:53pm

Yes, as I remember you could rap with one rope, but you don't want to. The last rap (down the vertical section after the gully) goes in one double rap; with one rope you end up at a hanging station in the middle of the face that's a pain in the ass with a haul bag. Make your life easier and rap with two ropes. Oh, and now that I think about it, the first rap might be slightly longer than 100 feet.

clustiere

Trad climber

berkeley ca

Nov 23, 2007 - 01:43pm

I can't seem to remember, could I rap the gully with one 60m rope.

clustiere

Trad climber

berkeley ca

Jul 24, 2007 - 09:04pm

Was my first solo and it is a good first wall if you are dedicated to not bailing. To bail on this would be a nightmare...

Where could one get a free topo to this route

yellow mzungu

Trad climber

berkeley, ca

Jul 23, 2007 - 02:38pm

i did this climb a few weeks ago. it was my first big wall and the route was spectacular! the bolts are solid, and there are fixed lines across the catwalk and the ahwahnee ledge (tho you might want to back up the catwalk as a section of the rope is held into the wall w/a knot).

we made the mistake of being too casual on the first day, and did not fix up pitches 5&6. i wound up leaving a bunch of nuts on pitch 7 in my haste up the wall (beginner's mistake!) so enjoy the booty! leeper cams also came in handy.

on the descent, the "tricky to find rappel" no longer has webbing on the tree. It is replaced by 2 bolts to the left of the tree (when facing the gully). from this belay station, we made it past the last rappel and to the ground w/2 60m ropes.

mingleefu

climber

Champaign, IL --> Denver, CO

Jun 27, 2007 - 11:46pm

anyone have current beta on the condition of fixed gear on this route? I intend to climb it around July 5th (holiday weekend, I know...).

Thanks. I'll post current info if I am able to send.

bonin_in_the_boneyard

Trad climber

Land of the Has Been

Sep 18, 2006 - 10:18pm

Oh, and cheers to the Brits who left my partner's shades on the rock at the base. You made his night. Good luck with the Nose!

bonin_in_the_boneyard

Trad climber

Land of the Has Been

Sep 18, 2006 - 10:03pm

This was my partner's and my first grade V. It was incredible. We started the approach at 1am Saturday morning and got back to the car at midnight Monday morning, and even made it in to work a few hours later. I tell you, I have new respect for aid climbers and big-wallers. Especially considering that this is a teeny-tiny little wall!

I have no beta to add for this route. I figure if a wall gumby like me can make it up uneventfully, there can't be any really bad spots on it -- although there was a lot of fixed gear that I didn't ponder having to make do without. We didn't bring anything for nailing. I also carried free climbing shoes on pitches 5-6 and 9-10 (linked). Was glad I did.

I found a single knee pad on the way out and since there was no one else on the route I just threw it in the pack. If anyone wants to claim it just drop me a line.

Happy climbing all,

-b

Luvshaker

climber

eugene

Sep 5, 2006 - 02:36pm

Pitch 5 was the definate crux of the route. Not much fixed on the traverse. I was ready to launch into runout free moves then the spincter tightned up, backed off, then found a sweet z1 cam placement and a hook move to get through. Could have used offset aliens many times on the route, but didn't have um.

If I went back I would try and free pitch 7 which looked very climbable at .11 with excellent pro the whole way.

cmclean

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

May 15, 2006 - 04:44pm

I did this route on Saturday. There was enough fixed gear that no cheater stick or heads were necessary.

The supertopo suggests bringing either a grappling hook or a cliffhanger, for the last move before the pitch 9 belay, and apparently they can be used starting off the 6th pitch. These hook moves can be skipped if you're willing to get out of your aiders and do a few free moves.

This route is strenuous! Get an early start and make sure you bring enough water, because once the sun hits the wall in the afternoon it cooks you all the way until sunset.

The supertopo says for the chimney raps "the next 5 or 6 rappels can be done with 2 50m or one 60m rope." There are actually a few more raps after those loose, low-angle ones mentioned. The station that has 2 bolts next to a tree can reach all the way to the ground if you use 2 60m ropes, rather than stopping half way down the face to a hanging station with 2 bolts.

lunchbox

Big Wall climber

santa cruz, ca

Sep 14, 2005 - 07:36pm

sorry Doc, i didn't see your cam on the way down..

Dr Von Boveridge

Trad climber

Sep 14, 2005 - 02:15pm

My friend and I climbed this route just before Lynn Hill & Katy Brown freed it. Watching them free pitches as we tested standing on gear was quite the humbling experience.

On the way down from the summit in that gulley i dropped a #4 forged friend (blue marker tape) it was pitch black and we were working with only one head lamp (long story). Any chance anyone picked it up. Normally I would just say that’s life but this was my lucky cam and has been with me since I first started climbing (Q violins).

Anyway any info on its wear abouts would be appreciated i would be willing to swap something else for its return.

Cheers

lunchbox

Big Wall climber

santa cruz, ca

Sep 14, 2005 - 01:53pm

I think the some of those bolts were part of the old belay and have been gone for quite some time. Looks like they have just been consolidated into a more convenient anchor. If the first bolt of the ladder was on the blankish face above blocky terrian then you were on the right track. If those were lead bolts that were chopped then they were added after W. Harding did the FA and were rightly chopped. Maybe they should have pulled and patched the holes, but that's a different topic.

If your drilling bat hook hole then maybe you should just place a rivet. If your going to place a rivet then why not a bolt? Holes are holes and new holes on old routes is a big no no

I soloed the route about 3 weeks ago (aug.20.05) and I free climbed from the belay to the first bolt on the ladder. Must have been at least 20 feet with a cruxie move right before the bolt. Spicy, but no harder than 5.7 or 5.8. My friends did the route a year ago and reported the same thing.

I think the hook moves can be avoided if you free climb. If hooking, your looking at C2+ and would most certainly be harder than the rest of the aid on the climb, but some people would rather hook than free climb. So the choice is yours.

Sounds like you guys handled it just fine anyways.

bryan howell

Boulder climber

san diego, ca

Sep 14, 2005 - 12:50am

The very first moves off of the pitch 6 beley ( or if you are linking 5/6, then just after the intermidiate beley), looks like somebody, just recently, chopped 3 bolts that start the ladder back to the left. This is the easy 5.7 terrain where Chris Mac suggests a cam hook. That placement is VERY obvious, but its the moves after it that are now touch. We did 3 or 4 hook moves with Talans, and grapplings to get to the first bolt.

WFLT has a rep of being a great, easy, first wall for folks. These moves are not the case.

Wondering what happened to those bolts? Why did they chop them flush instead of least leaving the bolt? Why not drill the hole all the way out to make bat hooking a possibility?

any input would be nice.

fareastclimber

climber

Jun 8, 2005 - 07:21pm

Beta from the 5th of June. Alot of fixed gear is gone although it is possible to bypass the missing gear. A Japanese party nailed up the day before placing a number of beaks and copperheads - now making it somewhat less of a challenge for future parties. Fixed ropes connect Awhanee and Guano Ledges.

the Fet

climber

Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La

Oct 11, 2004 - 10:11am

An assortment of hooks (logan or talon, skyhook, and fish hook) makes some sections easy that otherwise would be hard. e.g. the top of the 3rd pitch getting to the belay is a couple pretty easy hook moves or you need to free climb (not so easy with hiking boots and an aid rack.)

Moof

Big Wall climber

Orygun

Oct 2, 2004 - 11:56am

I brought the big artillary, a 3.5 and 4 rigid friend. I wasted them on pitch 9 becuase a fixed bong was giving me bad juju. BTW, I din't see the need for many of these fixed pins to be there in the splitter crack. If those ever get cleaned then you'll need a few big pieces to go crack jugging with.

When I got to pitch 10's first roof with the chopped bolt I was ble to get by with just a #3 friend (#2 camalot) out at the lip of the roof. A big piece here would make it casual, but is not mandatory. When I weighted the next piece (good red alien) my aiders kick the friend out of its meager purchase (ow, ow my sphincter!).

Later on pitch 10 is a fat crack that would be cake with a 3.5 camalot or #4 friend, but I got by with a red camalot, #11 stopper, and a #2 camalot. I hit this about 2 hours AFTER sunset, having lead all but one of the previous pitches. Seeing a fat crack and a skinny rack made my head explode. I first tried a red alien where the nut ended up. The spot is a picture perfect bottlenecked placement I excavated form under bird crap. The bird crap must have polished it, because that red alien folded up and shot out the bottom of the bottleneck into my face three god damn times before I placed the nut in utter disbelief.

As you exit onto the summit ledge put some duct tape or something in the crotch between the final roof and the ledge. Otherwise the rope can get wedged in. I got to the anchor before this happened, and thought my partner died when it took over an hour for the line to go tight (he was jugging, but the crotch was taking all the weight).

With good planning linking 9 and 10 would not have been bad, I didn't plan. Be very careful clipping any of the bolts or pins at the pitch 9 anchor with anything less than a 4' sling. Backcleaning right above the anchor is scary when you are staring down at the ledge.

Lambone

Big Wall climber

Ashland, Or

Sep 27, 2004 - 12:44pm

Link 9 and 10...I just did it yesterday. Use lots of draws and long slings and be smart about it and the rope drag is no problem at all.

As a side note:
The fixed lines on the first two pitches need to be cut down. We would have but there was a party below us.

poop_tube

Trad climber

Ashland, Or

Sep 24, 2004 - 02:46pm

Unless you are soloing, I don't recommend that pitches 9 and 10 should be linked due to severe rope drag.

HalHammer

Trad climber

May 24, 2004 - 01:52am

Aye, I just did it last weekend. We were fine with just bringing one #3. We definitely could have got by reasonably with #2 camalots in those same places.

taco bill

Trad climber

boulder, co

May 18, 2004 - 01:46pm

We inadvertently took nothing bigger than a #2 camalot and were fine. There is a chopped bolt at the wide part that you can use the tiniest cable rivet hanger on to get high enough to place a #2. That said, a #3 would have been easier, but isn't essential.
Enjoy,
adam

HalHammer

Trad climber

May 17, 2004 - 07:19pm

So is the 4 inch piece on pitch number 10 absolutely neccesary, or is there a reasonable aid trick (hook, topstep, etc) to get by that one section? Or perhaps.. any of yall know how hard this one move would go free climbing?

Wheatus

Trad climber

May 17, 2004 - 02:28pm

Climbed the West Face starting May 11th. Very enjoyable steep route with easy hauling. Lots of fixed gear everywhere on the route. Aliens and Alien Hybrids made the C2 sections easy. I only needed one 4" piece for pitch 10. Almost missed the rap anchors for the two last raps from LT gully. I kept going down the low angle ramp and ended up out on a blank face with no anchors. I back tracked up the ramp and then saw the anchors on a wide ledge off the the right (facing the gulley). The last rap from a tree could use a new bolted anchor. About ten old slings hung from the tree backed up by a thirty year old button head bolt.

We saw very few people on the route midweek. Peregrine Falcons were fighting and diving by us several times during the climb. My partner saw a five foot long corral snake in the talus just before the falls.

Dear Chris,
Thanks for all the bomber bolts by ASCA. The amount of effort in bolt replacement on the West Face is amazing. I also like the signature ASCA bolt hangers. Your work at ASCA is truly admirable. I am sending a donation today to ASCA. My family and I thank you for your efforts.

Josh Higgins

Trad climber

San Diego

May 9, 2004 - 10:57pm

Too bad I couldn't get out those other toys you left Clayman! Then I could have given them back to you.

Cowboy: Read the post right under yours. I could have sworn that my first sentence answered your question!

Mike

climber

Orange County CA

May 6, 2004 - 07:56pm

Yet? It's as good as ever.

Clayman

Trad climber

CA, now Flagstaff

May 6, 2004 - 01:12am

Cowboy- theres tons! clean my wires and my black alien for me!

Clayman

Trad climber

CA, now Flagstaff

May 6, 2004 - 01:12am

Cowboy- theres tons! clean my wires and my black alien for me!

Cowboy

Trad climber

Flagstaff, AZ

May 5, 2004 - 08:03pm

Anyone been up there yet hows the fixed gear?

Josh Higgins

Trad climber

San Diego

Apr 11, 2004 - 03:04pm

As of april 9th, no hammer or cheater stick was needed.

I just got off WFLT and rappeled the route. When I got to the base of the first pitch, I lowered the pig off of the tree just to the climber's right of the start of the bolt ladder. This worked great with 1 60m dynamic and and a 60m (200') static line. It felt like the pig went slack about 20' from the end of the rope, but it was night time so I couldn't see anything. When I took the pig off belay I didn't hear it fall either so I think it was down. Anyways, just my experience. Maybe they lowered from the tree right at the base of the climb and that is higher relative to the ground Chris? I can't swear the pig was on the ground, but I'm pretty sure it made it with about 380' of rope which is what I read somewhere. Beware of tossing the ropes since mine landed in a bush 30' off the deck but I was able to easily able to pull it down (luckily).

Rappeling the route is not so easy. On the first day I saw two guys try it, and coming down to the pitch 8 anchors they were way out in space and couldn't get into the wall and appeared to have had to jug back up and stay the night on top and go down the descent chimney.

My wife and I were lazy and didn't want to haul, so we fixed a line between the pitch 8 anchor and the pitch 10 anchor in order to rappel. We topped out and rappelled right back down the route in 3 rappels back to Awanahee. The first rappel (pitch 10 to pitch 8) I was probably anywhere from 35-50' out from the pitch 8 anchor and had to set up a full jumar (on the rope we fixed) to get back into the anchor. Pitch 8 to pitch 6 I had to keep bouncing past the overhang. I was probably swinging a good 30' away from the wall but it worked and I got two finger tips into a belay bolt and managed to clip myself in. If I had lost my swinging momentum I would have been screwed. From there it was pretty easy, but there are fixed ropes on the first two pitches to get you back into the anchors.

Neil

Gym climber

Here and there

Mar 23, 2004 - 11:29am

As of March 16th, the gully is free of snow. The cheater stick wasn't needed (none of the heads have pulled). The sun came on the route about 1:15.
Neil

Mike

climber

Orange County CA

Feb 19, 2004 - 01:02am

DW, Sun hits the route briefly in the afternoon in Winter. Gaiters and maybe snow pants on the approach; the deepest snow is usually around the base before directly under the route, but not bad unless after back-to-back dumps, then it can be thigh-deep in that area. Snow-covered talus blocks are the approach crux in Winter - try to stay on route because the blocks are pretty big off route.

Raps off the back:

You can do one shorty to the tree then a long one (nearly 60m) all the way (trending south) to some third class (100' or so) that leads to the mouth of the true gully. Alternately, there is a mid-point anchor on the slab about 130' (?) below the tree and slightly climber's right (north) at a stance (this will likely be the only rap anchor possibly covered with snow). Look for the first gully anchor on the right side of the gully on the wall. Even in heavy snow the gully anchors are all visible, mostly on skier's left (note that alternate anchors exist which enable rapping with one rope, shorter raps work better in most cases in the gully). Eventually when the gully widens, trend skier's left (possibly some 3rd) to some trees above the main face, then 3 raps down this exposed slab to the ground near the approach.

Have fun!

PS: The West Face route has not gone free as erroneously reported below.

David Weaver

Trad climber

Palo Alto, CA

Feb 18, 2004 - 02:26pm

Anyone happened to do this route recently (ie this winter)? We're thinking of giving it a go in a week or so. What was the sun exposure in winter, and how much gnarly snow is on the descent/approach? Think we'll find the descent anchors, or are we going to be rapping off of dead-manned hexes, hammers, and a few bollards?

Mike

climber

Palo Alto, CA

Sep 9, 2003 - 06:26pm

A tiny hammer like Pika's NutBuster is mandatory for tapping out previously weighted nuts. You can use a cam in a pinch.

No rivet hangers needed. You could bring one #3 cable rivet hanger (cinch-style is best) or wired nut to back up the loose, old SMC hanger on the bolt on P7 (loop the cable around the bolt hanger and onto the fat bolt so the cable can sit against the wall).

Forget the heads. HB/RP brass nuts, a hand-placed beak, micro cams and ingenuity should get you past any broken heads/pins, and there are several on the route. A couple of pins look pretty bad, but should hold your body weight famously.

No cheat stick either, Ricardo. You want to DO this wall, right? You'll be way more stoked on the summit without it - not to mention you won't need it, as Mel confirms.

All the pitches from Evil Tree Roof down can be rapped without monumental difficulty. The first 200' (2 pitches) are the steepest - if you rap that, have your partner lower you so you can clip short directional draws with hands free and let the "second" remove them on his way down.

Don't forget the bonus bivi at the summit ledge! Have fun...

malabarista

Trad climber

Palo Alto, CA

Sep 9, 2003 - 05:23pm

Ricardo,
I climbed this route in July for my first wall. I would bring the hammer (we didn't). I lost a couple of nuts that I could not clean without it.

Melissa

Gym climber

berkeley, ca

Sep 9, 2003 - 04:24pm

Ricardo...

Warren Harding was a little guy. This is good beta for any of his bolt ladders. ;-) You won't NEED the cheat stick. I used the cheat stick to snag fixed gear just out of my reach on the roofs. I didn't absolutely need to, so I loose style points.

I bailed from this route once before sending...The telescoping cheat stick was most useful then at speeding up my egress.

My controversial, poor style, have fun, go light choice for the route...bring the stick, skip the hammer.

ricardo

Gym climber

San Francisco, CA

Sep 9, 2003 - 03:52pm

going to attempt this route next week .. i have some questions .. (bear with me -- its my first wall)

1. heads .. thinking for throwing 3 of each size in the bag just in case.. (is that enough?)

2. rivet hangers .. are any needed? (i think the answer is no, but i might as well ask)

3. cheat stick. I'd like do all the moves, i'm 5'7" .. should i throw a helper stick in the bag.. or just some take some tape and rig something up with the hammer en-route?

ricardo

david_webb_aus

Big Wall climber

Canberra Australia

Aug 29, 2003 - 07:16pm

Have just left the valley and rate the West Face of Leaning Tower. There are a few fixed heads with broken wires up there.

Just to let people know. I thought the decent was about 2.5 hours nowhere near 3 hours. That is just my 2 cents worth.

Cheers
Dave

Mike

climber

Canberra Australia

The gully descent can be rapped with a single 60m rope.