Hoodwink, Harlequin Dome 5.10a R

  
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
  (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
  (4.5)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 33%  (1)
4 star: 67%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
BCD

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Jul 19, 2003 - 05:32am
 
Very fun route, and don't let the "R" rating scare you away. It's only moderately run-out (PG by Tuolomne standards).
Instead, you should be scared of the piton protecting the crux. It looks pretty solid, but if it pops you might break your back. The good thing is that the piton is RIGHT AT the crux, meaning you don't climb very far above it. I think I remember it being at my waist as I was pulling onto the ledge (with two bomber bolts).
Think of it as a boulder problem with a real nasty landing. You stand on a big ledge, pull 3-4 moves, then mantle onto another big ledge.
The rest of the route is fun, also.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Sep 9, 2004 - 10:33pm
This was a great route. a little bit of everything: crack, thin face, wild boulder problem roof. I felt the roof felt pretty stout for 5.10a. this is the one place in Tuolumne where being in good gym climbing shape comes in handy. I was surprised how there is still some short but serious bushwhacking on the descent. Definitely want hiking/approach shoes for the descent.
Shannon

Trad climber
Asheville, NC
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    Feb 10, 2006 - 12:50pm
I climbed Hoodwink back in the Fall. It's a great route with tons of variety. I didn't think it was very runout except the last pitch above the crux but it's only 5.7 at the most. I even found a pretty nice tcu placement in the roof to back up the piton. I would highly recommend the climb.
lazy bi

Trad climber
san jose ca
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    Jul 25, 2006 - 04:02am
Good route, very committing crux over the roof which can be additionally protected with a yellow alien and purple tcu.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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    Nov 12, 2008 - 01:51am
Here is a great story about the first ascent:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=88565
Harlequin Dome - Hoodwink 5.10a R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.