Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Here is a great story about the first ascent:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=88565
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lazy bi
Trad climber
san jose ca
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Good route, very committing crux over the roof which can be additionally protected with a yellow alien and purple tcu.
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Shannon
Trad climber
Asheville, NC
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I climbed Hoodwink back in the Fall. It's a great route with tons of variety. I didn't think it was very runout except the last pitch above the crux but it's only 5.7 at the most. I even found a pretty nice tcu placement in the roof to back up the piton. I would highly recommend the climb.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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This was a great route. a little bit of everything: crack, thin face, wild boulder problem roof. I felt the roof felt pretty stout for 5.10a. this is the one place in Tuolumne where being in good gym climbing shape comes in handy. I was surprised how there is still some short but serious bushwhacking on the descent. Definitely want hiking/approach shoes for the descent.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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BCD
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Very fun route, and don't let the "R" rating scare you away. It's only moderately run-out (PG by Tuolomne standards).
Instead, you should be scared of the piton protecting the crux. It looks pretty solid, but if it pops you might break your back. The good thing is that the piton is RIGHT AT the crux, meaning you don't climb very far above it. I think I remember it being at my waist as I was pulling onto the ledge (with two bomber bolts).
Think of it as a boulder problem with a real nasty landing. You stand on a big ledge, pull 3-4 moves, then mantle onto another big ledge.
The rest of the route is fun, also.
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
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