Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
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johnkitt
Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
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Just wanted to second what CT said... I climbed this route on 7/7/04 and found the route soaking wet from the crux section to the first piton on pitch 2. From there on out, the route was dry.
A storm system has parked its but over the Sierras for the past week or two. However, if you get up early and move fast, you should be okay on this, or any route in the area, so long as you make it down to safety before the storms hit, which has been mostly around 2-4 PM.
Great route! The 5.8 roof move just past the second piton was fun, reminiscent of Flower of High Rank for you Suicide Rock climbers out there.
-john kitt.
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Climbed the route yesterday, and it was every bit as good as it was built up to be. Maybe because we we're the only ones on it, maybe because I was supposed to be at work, or maybe because it was just that good. The top out and decent was one of, if not the best, i've ever experienced. For the beta, if your linking pitches, bring every bit of gear the topo says. Currently, the route is totally dry EXCEPT for a short section of finger pulls right in the crux, but if you need (as i did) you can pull on a medium nut to get through. Awsome day of climbing.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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In response to Bud Miller: we did that variation our first time up it a few years ago. The face moves past the bolt are harder than 5.8, not sure how hard though. I was on lead, that always eschews things for me. My partner, who was pushing into 5.10 that season, backed off of it. It was the hardest few moves of the route for me. A fall mantling onto the small ledge above the bolt might land you back on the block below. Having done the standard finish now, I like it better.
Above the bolt is more standard Reg Route Fairview climbing - fun and cruiser.
Those thin crimps felt out of character for the otherwise buttery route.
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Fantastic Route! Climbed this on July 17, 2011
Full value crack climbing, face climbing, roofs, stemming--this route has it all! Took my partner and me about 40 minutes to find the proper base (we started up the slab apron too early and the traverse across is a bit scary!) 6 and a half hours to top out (including linking 6 and 7, and simul-climbing after that. Jesse Climbing Ranger started about two or three hours after us and topped out about 30 seconds before me.... in approach shoes. Descent took longer than expected, we didn't skirt the base and ended up losing the trail--hard to find the road.
Topo points out four pitons, but I only found two. Doesn't matter, not runout in the least.
I was one of three parties on the route that day. Another party came to the base but turned back after checking us out.
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ElGreco
Mountain climber
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A 70m rope is unquestionably the way to go on this route.
The climbing is sustained to the crux on p1. The crux is short and is followed by immediate relief. Then head straight for the tree and belay. I found leading the crux on p1 easier than following p2 (which is also sustained)... My calves felt it.
The "large white flake" on the supertopo is one of the most enjoyable parts of the climb. I went left. Glorious hand jams below and a large horn higher up which you can sling for bomber pro and jug on.
One of the pins just below Crescent Ledge is rotten - don't trust it. The head is cut and it wobbles.
There is a stuck cam on the arch before the roof where the arch slants right. The roof itself is fun and protects well. The crack at its base will take a small-medium cam. Extend that with a double sling and then clip the pin above the roof (which seems solid). Then move right and tackle the roof on good jugs.
The remainder of the climb eases considerably. There is a glorious, comfy belay balcony next to a big tree after the long right traverse! After that, a handful of thin face/friction moves and lots of 3rd, 4th and easy 5th separate you from the top.
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Bill Whiteley
Intermediate climber
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This climb is a must do for anyone going to Tuolumne this summer. We climbed it on June 22 and it was unbelievable. The views were great and the hand jams were even better. Don't let the large dome shape fool you into thinking that the route is super easy or isn't very long. We unfortunately didn't have Chris's topo and the guide book was kind of confusing. We started about 2:30 in the afternoon and it almost wasn't enough time. After completeting the traverse on pitch 8 we decided to free solo the rest of the way in the fading sunlight to reach the top before dark. It was mostly 4th class and some easier 5th class to the top, but with the sun already below the horizon the stress to get to the top was intense. The descent was very easy even in the dark. You just walk off the back of the dome (were tight fitting shoes). I would highly recommend this route to anyone visiting the Tuolumne area and I would also recommend Chris's Supertopo it would have made our accent slightly less stressfull. Have fun and if you haven't done this route before try to start before noon.
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Will D
Advanced climber
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My buddy and I climbed Fairview for the first time a couple of weeks ago
with copies of your topo in our pockets. It was dead on down to the
individual move accurate. It was really nice to know that we could do the
route quickly without causing any traffic jams.
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Steve
Intermediate climber
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Awesome, totally awesome. Talk about a classic. Viewed from afar this is a perfect line, straight up the middle. The climbing is fantastic, hardest pitches at the bottom, but still interesting up higher. The descent is kind of spooky, long 3-4th classs slabs off the dome. When you get to the top of the climb go right, and follow the spine. I thought the 5.9 cruxes on the first two pitches were pretty easy for 5.9. The steep moves/roofs are easy too if you figure them out.
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Todd Snyder
Advanced climber
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Recently spoke with a couple Eugene climbers that had to retreat due to weather. They said they went straight down and ended up on a set of rusty, old 1/4" bolts, then had to rap from a single bolt at one point. The topo states that the condition of these bolts are unknown, so be aware the condition is NOT GOOD.
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Rob
Intermediate climber
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The rap route from the crescent ledge is much higher than the topo (the SuperTopo(free one) and Reid's book) shows. To find it look for the gold band of knobs about 150 feet up from the crescent ledge, roughly even in height with the 5th belay on the SuperTopo. The knobs near the bolts were slightly loose, but the bolts were large and had rap rings. Tend to the left for the for the second semi hidden set of bolts, its easy to find from here.
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Sam Siemens-Luthy
Intermediate climber
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This route is so great pitch after pitch of rewards. I have climbed it many times and it can totaly be done on 5 pitches. Make sure you have a 60m rope and just run as far as possible, the belay stations fall into place perfectly. Two tips for the first pitch. If it is wet dont use chalk just turns to crap. Secondly head for the belay station about 20 feet above the small tree, your belayer may have to move up a bit to give you rope. This higher initinal pitch sets you up for flying through the rest. The old bolts, as todd said, are not good, DO NOT USE. All in all a awsome route.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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This route is now in great condition to climb and has the long lines of weekend climbers to prove it. the first pitch may still be a little wet.
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Chris McNamara
Advanced climber
Mill Valley, CA
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here is my guess at what the conditions are like as of the end of May:
big snowbank at base, possibly some on route, first pitch heavily running water, maybe wet/snow patches up high. Too early for that I would think.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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I removed the three 1/4" bolts on the route yesterday.
These 3 bolts were added after the first ascent, were not needed, and the first one - 4' right of the crack at the big ledge on top of pitch 2 - was an accident waiting to happen, as it had a rap ring and was too far from the crack for most to use backup if rappelling.
All three bolts pulled very easily.
On the next trip I plan to check out the optional rap route down right from the midway ledge (down Wonderful Wino or other routes). I'll replace anchors if needed and update here.
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JB
Intermediate climber
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Get a super early start - dawn should do it! We got there at 6:30 on a Monday and were 3rd in line. Some of the parties who got there at 8 were bailing to something else.
On the descent stay right at first, then move left when you can see the bottom - don't stay all the way over to the right.
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Phil W
Intermediate climber
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A killer route with amazing views. One of the best routes I've done, fun moves with good pro every-
where and good belay ledges (with 160m rope). Almost sh#t when we caught a view of the dome from
tioga road; not so intimidating when you get close up. The summit view might be the best pamorama
in all Yosemite. We were behind one party, but they worked with us on belay ledges so all went well.
The parties behind us were moving real slow. Stay left on the descent and walk down a rib to the
bottom, right is not good. Started raining on the descent; we heard that it had rained every afternoon
for a week. Half of pitch one was wet, but no big deal.
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Phil W
Intermediate climber
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A killer route with amazing views. One of the best routes I've done, fun moves with good pro every-
where and good belay ledges (with 160m rope). Almost sh#t when we caught a view of the dome from
tioga road; not so intimidating when you get close up. The summit view might be the best pamorama
in all Yosemite. We were behind one party, but they worked with us on belay ledges so all went well.
The parties behind us were moving real slow. Stay left on the descent and walk down a rib to the
bottom, right is not good. Started raining on the descent; we heard that it had rained every afternoon
for a week. Half of pitch one was wet, but no big deal.
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steve haigh
Trad climber
palo alto, ca
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I climbed this route on saturday 24th august with Lyneaya (sp?) from YMS. Great route but COLD. The sun doesn't catch it until around noon and TM is cold in the shade. We were the 2nd of 4 parties there at about 7am. The party ahead of us was real slow and we couldn't get past until around the 5th pitch, bummer! But great crack climbing.
steve
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pbnjay
climber
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Steve, you must have been off-route on the descent---it is a walkdown and requires no scrambling at all
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Pete S.
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Conditions are already great for this climb this year, just a small and rapidly melting snowfield to deal with at the bottom, and some seeping water in the crack on the first pitch. Wear layers that you can pack away easily, we ended up baking on this route last Saturday, in the sun almost the entire time. The topo was excellent, as was the climb.
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Jim
climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Climbed it last week. No more snow at the base, a little seepage on pitch 2. Lots of fun, but the real climbing is pretty much over after pitch 4. Here are some suggestions:
Definitely use a 60m rope and extend pitch 1 to the big ledge on the left. This is much more comfortable, and allows you to do the first three pitches in two.
The topo is a little misleading for pitch 7: the ramp continues up left to a bigger tree (not on the topo), but is off-route. Also didn't see the bolt on the face. When you hit the first bush on a big platform (maybe 8'x8'), veer right up the face to the big long ledge for the traverse to the right. Pitches 6 and 7 or 7 and 8 can also be combined with a 60m.
From belay station 8 on the supertopo, it's easy to simul the rest of the way. These suggestions should speed up the climb, get you out of the hot sun (the entire route bakes) a little quicker.
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Shawn
Trad climber
St. Paul, MN
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Jim is correct. The Supertopo shows a bolt just up and right off of the corner of the ledge which starts the 7th pitch. The three in our party and the following two-some were unable to locate it. If you stray too far up the right facing corner system to the next ledge with a tree with a sling (like Jim says, about 80 feet), you will come to a ledge similar to the right one which you passed--the misleading thing is that the wrong ledge has a bolt on the face in relativley the same place as you would have expected on the earlier ledge. Don't go up--unless you want to join a 5.10 climb immediatley left of the Regular Route. After turning the roof on P6 get to the first nice ledge with a tree--40 feet as the topo says. The face where the bolt was has a dicey crack that leads, after a few short, exposed face moves, to a thin, sloping ledge system that leads to the 3rd-4th class sections.
Tremendous route with great beta provided in the Supertopos! I appreciated the topos the whole trip.
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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Yes the bolt is missing on the traversing pitch, you can get a Green Alien mid way in the seam that leads to the traversing ledge.
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WC
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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While climbing this route last week I watched the party behind us use the following tactics/belay spots to climb the route pretty quickly.
1. On pitch one climb past the belay to the ledge at 200' with a small tree on the left.
2. Climb from this ledge to the belay marked #3 on the supertopo. This is about 190'.
3. Climb pitch 4 as shown on the supertopo.
4. Climb pitch 5 as shown on the supertopo.
5. Run pitches 6 & 7 together as indicated on the supertopo.
6. The supertopo shows pitch 8 as 150' to a tree. Climb another 50' past this tree. This should land you on a nice ledge with a flat boulder. From here either solo, simulclimb, or run the rope out for 2-3 pitches to the top.
The biggest advantage of using these belay spots is that it combines the first three pitches into two. The down side is that you miss out on two nice belay ledges.
The crux was a little wet the day we climbed it, but it didn't seem any less secure than usual.
Have fun on this classic. :)
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malabarista
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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P1: Go the 200 feet to the optional belay
P2: Climb the 205 foot pitch (simul climbed up to the 5.8 pod on the topo) to the next optional belay above belay 3.
P3: From here climb to the 5th belay marked on the topo. Don't protect after the 2nd piton until you traverse back left from Crescent ledge and you will have enough rope, and prevent rope drag.
P4: Link 6-7
P5: 8th pitch as marked
We were first on the route, even with a "luxury start" around 9am. The climb took us about 4.5 hours, simul-climbing from the tree at the end of p8. I didn't see any need for a bolt on p7, even if one used to be there.
Perfect weather, great climbing and great views from summit.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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showed up aroun 7 am .. and found 3 parties already at the base, the first part jad just passed the crux on P1.
waited about 2 hours to get on P1.
The firs 2 pitches went slowly as everyone was getting the belays sorted out, first 2 parties belayed at at the ledge above the roof on p2), and the third party belayed at the proper P2 belay .. so we waited.
We belayed right below the roof at the piton. (i was running out of gear!).
After this the route opened up and we never had traffic again. We made crescent ledge barely on 200' of rope after my hanging belay for p2.
did 1 pitch from crescent ledge to another big ledge, and then linked 2 more pitches. 1 more pitch took us to the big tree. simulclimbed from here to the top, which went fast, placing enough gear to always have at least 1 piece between us and slinging trees along the way. i had put the topo away while leading the simul, so i just sort of picked my way to the top, at some points i did some 5.6 face climbing but it was no big deal.
Topped out by 2 pm. (5 hours climbing total) -- we were at the grill by 3:15 eating some well earned burgers and beer.
great jamming route, awesome views, highly recommended.
 ricardo
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Climbed the route with a buddy who was on his first multi-pitch adventure. What a day. Got an 'alpine start' from Monterey and headed up to the meadows on Sunday, 26 October. Expecting to see a few cars at the pullout, I was stoked that we were first to arrive... FOR THE ENTIRE DAY!! And what a day. The route it totally dry including the crux section on the first pitch. The moves are still a bit slick but definitly well protected. In fact the entire route was incredibly well protected and the carry an extra set of nuts advice is really good. I linked pitches as in the posts below with no problem. All belay ledges with the exception of #2 are super comfy. Had sun on the last three pitches. One point of contention with the supertopo is that it identifies the hollow flake variation as having poor pro. This is not nearly the case. It is great fun and eats solid gear on the main wall. Still a little time left to get on this classic!!
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J-Dogg
Trad climber
colorado
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I will be in the valley in two weeks (May 15th), does anyone have any beta on the snow pack up in Tuolumne. I would like to do the regular route on Fairview if possible. Thanks.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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expect alot of snow at the base .. i'm not sure what the descent might be like then ..
.. the road to toulomne is expected to open may 14th
ricardo
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Greg Barnes
climber
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I've done it in late May, there'll be a lot of snow at the base, plus the first pitch will be running water at the crux (don't even open your chalk bag). However, I found with a light tape job you can jam straight through the water at maybe a grade or two harder. Good idea to have socks or pants on so you can dry your shoes off when they get wet.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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There is a lot of snow leading to the first pitch. This is not really a big deal. A bigger deal is the crux that is wet. Right now it feel harder than 5.9. There is some wetness after the crux and then the route is dry. Fiarview dome in the sun all day at the moment. later in the summer, the sun takes a different path and the route receives more shade.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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two days ago i did possibly a new variation to pitches 6, 7 and 8. from a belay 6, instead of traversing left to the crescent arching corner, go straight up a slightly grassy crack system. Starts out well protected. Laybacking a flake that looks too grassy but is actually pretty clean. Then there is an opportunity to angle up and left back to the regular route (right at the roof of pitch 6) or make a big step right. step right to an undercling flake out left leads to a 5.10a mantel and then a roof. The crack above the roof thins out (and doesn't take gear) and you make unprotected 5.7 traverse right to a cool arête/corner. There is a 5.8 move here that is pretty runout. Then a few more feet and you are at a good ledge to belay with .75-2” cams. About 180 feet. This belay is halfway through pitch 8 on the topo. join the regular route to the summit.
PS: i'm calling it the Crowd Pleaser variation... because its a great way to avoid the crowds, pass parties, and, if you start sketching out on the runouts, you will be entertaining all the people on pitches 5,6, and 7.
Visit on supertopo.com
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Mountain Man
Trad climber
Outer space
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We climbed this 2 weeks ago. Walked across lots of snow going up, and started off snow. Crux was very wet, and the feet didn't feel too secure for a few pitches. The hard ones. I thought my shoes might be wet.
All in all, a superb climb, worthy of the top 50. There was only one party on the climb when we were there. Three pieces of pro the first ptch and we never saw him again.
The walk off is way easy. I walked straight down the fall line with no problem.
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Colt45
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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This is one of the coolest climbs I have ever done!!
On 6/14/04, there was still snow at the base but we were able to hike around it on the rock slabs. There was a tiny bit of water seeping from the crack on the first pitch in a couple of places, but it wasn't a big deal because the fingerlocks are so secure. The rest of the route was completely dry.
We started late, around 1:30pm, to avoid waiting in line. We foolishly ignored the puffy clouds that had been building since earlier in the day. Since there was obviously a storm building, we shifted into high gear: we climbed p1 as a single 200ft pitch to the big ledge, then two more simul-climb pitches to the summit. We topped out around 5:00pm, having climbed the last half-hour in the rain. On the summit our hair was standing up from the building electricity!! We speed-coiled our ropes and sprinted the descent in our climbing shoes. Fortunately this is one of the mellowest descents imaginable; it's essentially a low-angle granite highway that leads all the way to the forest!
Safely back at the car, we agreed to pay more attention to the supertopo's recommendation on looking for puffy white clouds before starting a multi-pitch route...
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ct
climber
WA
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Climbed the route Sunday, 7/4/04. Apparently there were thunderstorms all week, and the entire first and second pitches are soaking wet. The crux on the first pitch was literally flowing, and the second pitch felt tenuous with running water in the crack and slippery feet the whole way. Some water on pitch 3 and at the roof on pitch 5. Pretty much dry the rest of the way. Great route, but use caution when wet.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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climbed on 7/10 .. showed up at 9:30 am .. was 3rd on route ..
.. the crux is wet and so is the bottom section of p2 .. (if you do the alternate belays) ..
.. great route .. the 2nd roof is my favorite pitch..
ricardo
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Calm is but a Wall
Trad climber
SF
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Unless you want that perfect cool to cold temp. for sticky rubber, start as late in the day as you can. This route is more enjoyable in the sun, which, in summer, bends around the dome in mid-afternoon and shines on her face till lights out. (Clearly not the strategy if you are in an afternoon thunderstorm cycle of Tuolumne weather.) Little to no traffic in afternoon, too.
An inexperienced but strong partner and I started at 2:30 last Thursday and topped at 7 without strain. We carried headlamps and jackets just in case.
It goes at 8 pitches plus some change (30 feet), the only stretcher pitch 5 through the .9 move/roof to the good ledge where things go to the right (my guy moved up 5-10 feet on easy ground so I could get there).
If you're doing just one F. Dome route on your trip, I like Lucky Streaks -- fewer pitches, and much more climbing.
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Jacques
Trad climber
SF
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Climbed the Regular Route last weekend. There is a flake (four feet or so high) that is very loose and about to come off just to the right above the belay at belay station 5 on the Supertopo. We left it in place because we obviously did not want it to hit anyone below. But climbers should be aware of it and use caution.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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I received this beta from a supertopo user:
About Regular Route on Fairview Dome: there are no bolts, especially there is no bolt on the beginning of the traverse and the traverse itself is protectable with .5 or so cams.
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mattd
climber
Edmonton, Canada
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We landed on the crescent ledge late, and took the rappel route down. It took us some time to find the first bolts, so here's the beta on the rap off crescent:
The rap bolts (two beefy ones) are much higher than shown in either supertopo or the meadows guide. (see Rob's description of the bolts below for how to find them)... go right up the crescent ledge past two 3rd class sections and climb a few meters of 5.3 where the ledge curves up to be steep (2/3 of a rope length up and level with the 5th supertopo anchor). Look out right past knobby gold rock to see the bolts.
In the route beta below, Rob says to trend left from these bolts on your first rappel. Don't do that! The next rap station is climber's RIGHT. Even though both topos say to use double ropes (which you will need later on), the second anchor is only 1/2 rope (30m) down on a long narrow stance in the slab. For station 3, just follow the ropes straight down, you'll see the bolts at the top of a pinnacle that will appear (50 meters). 4th and final station is off the pinnacle climber's right, trend right over a corner, and find the two bolts on a ledge 50 meters down (you can see these bolts from station 3).
Have fun. - Matt
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TIM SHEA
Trad climber
FORT LAUDERDALE, FLA
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1st in line on this one. We did it in 6 hours. The crux was a little wet but no big deal. I was so worried about that before I climbed it. After reading about this in 50 classic climbs, I had blown it up in my mind's eye. Long enough to forget about climbing and just climb !
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giudirel
Sport climber
Italy
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I climbed it on august,14 with my 11 years old daughter. Altough we need to wait for a big line we enjoyed it a lot and had a great fun.
Although climbing is very easy for european standard (we are from Italy) we found it challenging: no bolts and/or piton at all and she, even if can lead 5.11 with bolts, never saw a friend and/or a nut before that time.
In Europe it would be rated V/V+ and all belays at least would be in place, maybe with bolts and chains to allow a quick raps go down that in the Alps is actually the more popular downhill style for climbers.
Anyway a big hello to all guys I met there: very nice peoples!
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climbinginchico
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Climbed this on a Thursday a couple weeks ago- nobody else was on the route the entire day! The first pitch was dry except for the crux. I used a Beal Stinger 70m rope and had huge ledges for every belay.
70m rope beta:
Pitch 1: climb to Belay 2 ledge above tree (3x10 ledge on SuperTopo)
Pitch 2: Climb past the stance belay and to the huge ledge (7x10 ledge on SuperTopo)
Pitch 3: From there climb to the Crescent Ledge and continue up left, using long slings to reduce rope drag, to the top of the easy ramp system. Belay on huge ledge, with not much left on a 70m. Good spot for a snack.
Pitch 4: Climb to top of Pitch 7 on SuperTopo, before the traverse.
From there you can simulclimb or belay pitches. Run out as much rope as possible, it's pretty much possible to build a belay anywhere you need to.
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seankirsch73
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Climbed Fairview Dome last weekend with 2 of my buds. We had 60m ropes and made it to a big ledge every pitch. The first pitch did involve simul-climbing for about 7ft on easy terrain though. The lower cracks were dry and swallowed pro. This was the first time I had used the Reverso in the self-braking method as I belayed both my friends simultaneously. It worked great having the big ledge for rope mgmt, and we climbed as fast as the 2 man teams. The weather was perfect all day long, though it was much warmer at the base than we expected. (no complaints about that)
We simuled the upper section in the same manner as the lower, which I wouldnt do again since I was continually pulling on 400ft of rope. Lesson learned; bag one rope and have the third person butterfly into the middle.
excellent job on the SuperTopo topo guide. Made the day that much more enjoyable.
One bit of advice would be to make sure you belay from the 7th pitch. The traverse has enough heinous rope drag. Belaying 7&8 together is too much even with long slings.
...(its not a sport route in Europe; its a trad route in the USA)
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Greyalien
Trad climber
NJ
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Great route, but i must say that the "wet in early season" description for the crux is total bs. We did it the start of august and other than the water flowing out of the crux of P1 nothing else in the meadows (save for the river) was wet.
So, the wet figerlocks at the crux were a pain (felt like 10-) but after that the route was cruiser. Definatly a must do, it was the longest thing weve ever done.
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sharon
Trad climber
Bay Area, CA
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Hey -- found a camera at the top of Fairview yesterday. If it's your's, drop me a note with the make/model -- swh65@yahoo.com.
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