chick_on_ice
Trad climber
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Climbed this two days ago. First on the route at 6am. I highly recommend using climbinginchico's beta if you've got a 70m rope. Did the climb in 5 pitches+350' of simul-climbing. The crux of pitch 1 and some holds on pitch 2 were kinda soaked (thunderstorms or regular seepage maybe?), but the jams are super solid. I did have to 'rescue' a guy(had 20' to go, looked shaky, & getting the affirmative, threw him a rope). Great route, but be careful if you're not comfortable on wetness!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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No beta, but Jim Keating and I did it back in 1975. Superb route. I hope that I can the chance to climb it again someday.
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D Fred
Trad climber
san francisco, ca
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did the route twice this week... just FYI, from the recent thunderstorms, monday was wet and tuesday was a river on the first two pitches
pitch 2 was underwater, with water literally flowing over my hands in the fingerlocks and down my elbows, soaking my shirt. after taking a slippery whip on the humbling 5.7 fingers, i french-freed through the wet sections and then after the 2nd half of pitch 2, the climbing is all dry and really fun again. i should have worn goggles though.
having said that, someone passed us each day casually soloing through those first two wet pitches, my hat is off to both of you, impressive wet solo
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ElGreco
Mountain climber
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A 70m rope is unquestionably the way to go on this route.
The climbing is sustained to the crux on p1. The crux is short and is followed by immediate relief. Then head straight for the tree and belay. I found leading the crux on p1 easier than following p2 (which is also sustained)... My calves felt it.
The "large white flake" on the supertopo is one of the most enjoyable parts of the climb. I went left. Glorious hand jams below and a large horn higher up which you can sling for bomber pro and jug on.
One of the pins just below Crescent Ledge is rotten - don't trust it. The head is cut and it wobbles.
There is a stuck cam on the arch before the roof where the arch slants right. The roof itself is fun and protects well. The crack at its base will take a small-medium cam. Extend that with a double sling and then clip the pin above the roof (which seems solid). Then move right and tackle the roof on good jugs.
The remainder of the climb eases considerably. There is a glorious, comfy belay balcony next to a big tree after the long right traverse! After that, a handful of thin face/friction moves and lots of 3rd, 4th and easy 5th separate you from the top.
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Ralphy
Trad climber
Green Honda Element
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This is a very good route. We linked pitches 2 and 3 which made for a nice long pitch. I felt the 2nd and 3rd pitches were just as hard as the first, but none of them were difficult. The corner on the 3rd pitch is awesome, sustained, great gear and fun moves. The top half goes by quickly, I would recommend simulclimbing or soloing the last few pitches. Classic! Crowded!
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RMLeahy
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Lucky enough to have climbed the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral and El Cap as well as Super Slacker Highway this summer and got on this route this past Sunday. This route is hands down my favorite longer route of all time. Although it was a little wet at the crux and on the second pitch it was totally manageable. We got to do the route a few days before this first storm hit and lucked out with the weather. It was pretty chilly, so we were glad to have worn rain jackets, synthetics, and warm hats. Pretty windy and shaded almost all day until the top few pitches. I would also recommend the second set of nuts if you intend to link the pitches with either a 60 or 70 M rope. We were behind one party all day and so we weren't able to link all of the pitches that we wanted to, but they were super cool folks. I led the flake pitch and would definitely recommend going right. Super fun moves to huge holds along the top of the flake. The climbing and rock quality is amazingly high quality throughout. We simul climbed from the top of pitch 8 on with a few 5.6 or 5.7 moves here and there. Excellent summit that was super fun to gain while climbing the last few hundred feet quickly. Highly recommended. Descent is as noted very straight forward. Can't wait to climb this one again.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Climbed it August 13. Still a little wetness in the 1st pitch crux jams.
We had a 60M rope and did the 1st and 2nd pitch as one with about 30 feet of simulclimbing on easy terrain at the base for the second. The 3x10 ledge at 230' is plush. .75 camalot and some nuts for the anchor.
Our next pitch was to the 7x10 ledge 205' from the top of 2. About 8 feet simulcimbing on easy terrain. Another great ledge. But it is more like one 3x10 ledge over another 3x10 ledge, not 7x10 IMO.
Our next pitch was past Crescent Ledge up to the top of 5. Don't place any pro when heading right to crescent and back left on the 5.4 ramp (easy terrain) to reduce rope drag and have enough rope to make it. About 8 feet of simulcimbing for use here too.
The top of 5 is another plush ledge. I think it's better than Crescent Ledge because it's very flat, you can dangle your feet over the edge and it's easier to look down from. We stopped there for 45 minutes, ate, and enjoyed the view. The other 4+ parties after us were well below us because the belays we used saved a lot of time.
Pitch 6 is a very fun pitch, combined it with 7, no simulclimbing needed.
Pitch 8 has some fun easy 5th class moves after the traverse.
Simulclimbed from the top of 8 to the summit.
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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@ Sabi: There was a little water flowing through the crux 5.9 bit, but it still took perfect protection and didn't affect the jams, maybe just gummed up my chalk bag a bit when I went for more chalk. Cold water felt good on my torn up meat hooks!
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Sabirila
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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@jewedlaw: was it wet or dirty?
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Fantastic Route! Climbed this on July 17, 2011
Full value crack climbing, face climbing, roofs, stemming--this route has it all! Took my partner and me about 40 minutes to find the proper base (we started up the slab apron too early and the traverse across is a bit scary!) 6 and a half hours to top out (including linking 6 and 7, and simul-climbing after that. Jesse Climbing Ranger started about two or three hours after us and topped out about 30 seconds before me.... in approach shoes. Descent took longer than expected, we didn't skirt the base and ended up losing the trail--hard to find the road.
Topo points out four pitons, but I only found two. Doesn't matter, not runout in the least.
I was one of three parties on the route that day. Another party came to the base but turned back after checking us out.
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StevenS
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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For the party below us who had to wait and watch the whole rescue on Sunday Aug 1st with lowering my partner from the 4th pitch due to a broken ankle. We are still looking for our gear (several cams, cordelettes and biners). If you collected our gear as you continued climbing please let me know the where about and email me at stesu at comcast dot net. Thanks.
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10k
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Did this route on July 11, 2010. Was some snow at the start, skirt around on the slabs to reach the belay spot to make it easy for yourself. The crack on P1 was damp deep in the crack but it doesn't affect the climbing much. Fun route. We did it car-to-car in 6 hours starting at 3pm, no crowds in front of us. 70 meter rope is almost mandatory to get to better belay spots and get the technical pitches over sooner.
I didn't find the 5.6 slab section. Instead I found this mossy face that was breaking off as I was climbing it and it was super sketch. Must have missed something, but it was the right place as we reached the summit very shortly after.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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In response to Bud Miller: we did that variation our first time up it a few years ago. The face moves past the bolt are harder than 5.8, not sure how hard though. I was on lead, that always eschews things for me. My partner, who was pushing into 5.10 that season, backed off of it. It was the hardest few moves of the route for me. A fall mantling onto the small ledge above the bolt might land you back on the block below. Having done the standard finish now, I like it better.
Above the bolt is more standard Reg Route Fairview climbing - fun and cruiser.
Those thin crimps felt out of character for the otherwise buttery route.
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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As a follow up to my last post, from belay #7 (at the 5.7 face and/or 5.6 travers), I did a little exploring and followed the block "terrace" up really far left, towards a large bush at the end of the blocks. Above the bush there was a fun looking face with a new(ish) bolt on it (5.7/8?). Clouds we're popping up in the sky pretty quick, so we decided against venturing into the unkown and took the regular route instead, but I am very curiouse as to where it leads and what the climbing is like. Since it is unlikely that I will be up that route again till at least next year, I would love to get some input on the variation. Does anyone know where/what this leads to?
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Climbed the route yesterday, and it was every bit as good as it was built up to be. Maybe because we we're the only ones on it, maybe because I was supposed to be at work, or maybe because it was just that good. The top out and decent was one of, if not the best, i've ever experienced. For the beta, if your linking pitches, bring every bit of gear the topo says. Currently, the route is totally dry EXCEPT for a short section of finger pulls right in the crux, but if you need (as i did) you can pull on a medium nut to get through. Awsome day of climbing.
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Climbed regular route on Tuesday July 21st, 2009. Fantastic climb! First on route at about 8:00. Several parties were waiting as we completed the first pitch. Used a 70 meter rope and linked several pitches. Hit the top in about 9 pitches and 8 hours. Contrary to popular belief, most of the route was in the sun. There was one party on our heels the whole climb, but they were very patient. After the roof pitch a couple of valley climbers rudely and obnoxiously passed us (and several parties behind us). View from the top was "fair"!!! Enjoy climbing this route. It's well worth it!
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Brendan
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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For the party of 3 below us (Blonde girl and long hair guy) on Sunday August 3, we have a bunch of pictures of you all leading and climbing up pitch 5. Email me at brendansharris@gmail.com for the pics. Thanks for letting us slip by you!
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Fish and the other poster nailed it. With a 60 and a little strech'in it's 4 pitches to the crescent. That silly white flake always screws with me and if you cowboy up and just go right, straight it's 5.7 c. then 4th class to the top, then sore feet scrambling down. Wonderful Climb and a true classic.Done it at least 8 times and will do it again in a heart beat. The second pitch when ran long almost gets boring after beautiful..........
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fishtrap
Trad climber
Bass Lake, CA
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7/7/08
The route was dry and with an early start (6am) we were the 1st party on the climb. Doing this route with a 70M rope was definetely the way to go. We were able to climb the first 7 pitches in 4 long pitches (see someone elses description further down in the posts) and then we started simul climbing from the top of pitch 7 to the top. I'm not a fast clmber and we were taking our time and it still only took us 3 1/2 hours. If you are comfortable on 4th with the occasional easy 5th move there is no reason not to simul climb once you are past the 7th pitch as the climbing is very easy to the top from here.
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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On pitch 4 there is a big white flake. Now that I've climbed on both sides of it, I think the right side is a little easier with a couple of 5.8 face moves on knobs to reach easy climbing, in contrast with several strenuous 5.8 moves up the left side of the flake. Take your pick!
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keith young
Trad climber
Stateline,nv
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0630 am start and first on route on wensday. before gettting to the first belay 2 parties waiting. Good fun big belay ledges but windy as hell after the 5 belay. Also my partner dropped my purple old school BD camalot. Multiple subsequent parties were told that we had dropped it and to leave it at the base. Surprise, cam was gone. Moral: Don't drop a cam!
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Lana Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sharon!
I believe that's my camera!
I have just emailed you.
Thanks so much for picking it up!
Lana
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sharon
Trad climber
Bay Area, CA
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Hey -- found a camera at the top of Fairview yesterday. If it's your's, drop me a note with the make/model -- swh65@yahoo.com.
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Greyalien
Trad climber
NJ
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Great route, but i must say that the "wet in early season" description for the crux is total bs. We did it the start of august and other than the water flowing out of the crux of P1 nothing else in the meadows (save for the river) was wet.
So, the wet figerlocks at the crux were a pain (felt like 10-) but after that the route was cruiser. Definatly a must do, it was the longest thing weve ever done.
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seankirsch73
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Climbed Fairview Dome last weekend with 2 of my buds. We had 60m ropes and made it to a big ledge every pitch. The first pitch did involve simul-climbing for about 7ft on easy terrain though. The lower cracks were dry and swallowed pro. This was the first time I had used the Reverso in the self-braking method as I belayed both my friends simultaneously. It worked great having the big ledge for rope mgmt, and we climbed as fast as the 2 man teams. The weather was perfect all day long, though it was much warmer at the base than we expected. (no complaints about that)
We simuled the upper section in the same manner as the lower, which I wouldnt do again since I was continually pulling on 400ft of rope. Lesson learned; bag one rope and have the third person butterfly into the middle.
excellent job on the SuperTopo topo guide. Made the day that much more enjoyable.
One bit of advice would be to make sure you belay from the 7th pitch. The traverse has enough heinous rope drag. Belaying 7&8 together is too much even with long slings.
...(its not a sport route in Europe; its a trad route in the USA)
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climbinginchico
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Climbed this on a Thursday a couple weeks ago- nobody else was on the route the entire day! The first pitch was dry except for the crux. I used a Beal Stinger 70m rope and had huge ledges for every belay.
70m rope beta:
Pitch 1: climb to Belay 2 ledge above tree (3x10 ledge on SuperTopo)
Pitch 2: Climb past the stance belay and to the huge ledge (7x10 ledge on SuperTopo)
Pitch 3: From there climb to the Crescent Ledge and continue up left, using long slings to reduce rope drag, to the top of the easy ramp system. Belay on huge ledge, with not much left on a 70m. Good spot for a snack.
Pitch 4: Climb to top of Pitch 7 on SuperTopo, before the traverse.
From there you can simulclimb or belay pitches. Run out as much rope as possible, it's pretty much possible to build a belay anywhere you need to.
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giudirel
Sport climber
Italy
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I climbed it on august,14 with my 11 years old daughter. Altough we need to wait for a big line we enjoyed it a lot and had a great fun.
Although climbing is very easy for european standard (we are from Italy) we found it challenging: no bolts and/or piton at all and she, even if can lead 5.11 with bolts, never saw a friend and/or a nut before that time.
In Europe it would be rated V/V+ and all belays at least would be in place, maybe with bolts and chains to allow a quick raps go down that in the Alps is actually the more popular downhill style for climbers.
Anyway a big hello to all guys I met there: very nice peoples!
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TIM SHEA
Trad climber
FORT LAUDERDALE, FLA
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1st in line on this one. We did it in 6 hours. The crux was a little wet but no big deal. I was so worried about that before I climbed it. After reading about this in 50 classic climbs, I had blown it up in my mind's eye. Long enough to forget about climbing and just climb !
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mattd
climber
Edmonton, Canada
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We landed on the crescent ledge late, and took the rappel route down. It took us some time to find the first bolts, so here's the beta on the rap off crescent:
The rap bolts (two beefy ones) are much higher than shown in either supertopo or the meadows guide. (see Rob's description of the bolts below for how to find them)... go right up the crescent ledge past two 3rd class sections and climb a few meters of 5.3 where the ledge curves up to be steep (2/3 of a rope length up and level with the 5th supertopo anchor). Look out right past knobby gold rock to see the bolts.
In the route beta below, Rob says to trend left from these bolts on your first rappel. Don't do that! The next rap station is climber's RIGHT. Even though both topos say to use double ropes (which you will need later on), the second anchor is only 1/2 rope (30m) down on a long narrow stance in the slab. For station 3, just follow the ropes straight down, you'll see the bolts at the top of a pinnacle that will appear (50 meters). 4th and final station is off the pinnacle climber's right, trend right over a corner, and find the two bolts on a ledge 50 meters down (you can see these bolts from station 3).
Have fun. - Matt
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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I received this beta from a supertopo user:
About Regular Route on Fairview Dome: there are no bolts, especially there is no bolt on the beginning of the traverse and the traverse itself is protectable with .5 or so cams.
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Jacques
Trad climber
SF
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Climbed the Regular Route last weekend. There is a flake (four feet or so high) that is very loose and about to come off just to the right above the belay at belay station 5 on the Supertopo. We left it in place because we obviously did not want it to hit anyone below. But climbers should be aware of it and use caution.
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Calm is but a Wall
Trad climber
SF
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Unless you want that perfect cool to cold temp. for sticky rubber, start as late in the day as you can. This route is more enjoyable in the sun, which, in summer, bends around the dome in mid-afternoon and shines on her face till lights out. (Clearly not the strategy if you are in an afternoon thunderstorm cycle of Tuolumne weather.) Little to no traffic in afternoon, too.
An inexperienced but strong partner and I started at 2:30 last Thursday and topped at 7 without strain. We carried headlamps and jackets just in case.
It goes at 8 pitches plus some change (30 feet), the only stretcher pitch 5 through the .9 move/roof to the good ledge where things go to the right (my guy moved up 5-10 feet on easy ground so I could get there).
If you're doing just one F. Dome route on your trip, I like Lucky Streaks -- fewer pitches, and much more climbing.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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climbed on 7/10 .. showed up at 9:30 am .. was 3rd on route ..
.. the crux is wet and so is the bottom section of p2 .. (if you do the alternate belays) ..
.. great route .. the 2nd roof is my favorite pitch..
 ricardo
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johnkitt
Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
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Just wanted to second what CT said... I climbed this route on 7/7/04 and found the route soaking wet from the crux section to the first piton on pitch 2. From there on out, the route was dry.
A storm system has parked its but over the Sierras for the past week or two. However, if you get up early and move fast, you should be okay on this, or any route in the area, so long as you make it down to safety before the storms hit, which has been mostly around 2-4 PM.
Great route! The 5.8 roof move just past the second piton was fun, reminiscent of Flower of High Rank for you Suicide Rock climbers out there.
-john kitt.
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ct
climber
WA
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Climbed the route Sunday, 7/4/04. Apparently there were thunderstorms all week, and the entire first and second pitches are soaking wet. The crux on the first pitch was literally flowing, and the second pitch felt tenuous with running water in the crack and slippery feet the whole way. Some water on pitch 3 and at the roof on pitch 5. Pretty much dry the rest of the way. Great route, but use caution when wet.
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Colt45
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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This is one of the coolest climbs I have ever done!!
On 6/14/04, there was still snow at the base but we were able to hike around it on the rock slabs. There was a tiny bit of water seeping from the crack on the first pitch in a couple of places, but it wasn't a big deal because the fingerlocks are so secure. The rest of the route was completely dry.
We started late, around 1:30pm, to avoid waiting in line. We foolishly ignored the puffy clouds that had been building since earlier in the day. Since there was obviously a storm building, we shifted into high gear: we climbed p1 as a single 200ft pitch to the big ledge, then two more simul-climb pitches to the summit. We topped out around 5:00pm, having climbed the last half-hour in the rain. On the summit our hair was standing up from the building electricity!! We speed-coiled our ropes and sprinted the descent in our climbing shoes. Fortunately this is one of the mellowest descents imaginable; it's essentially a low-angle granite highway that leads all the way to the forest!
Safely back at the car, we agreed to pay more attention to the supertopo's recommendation on looking for puffy white clouds before starting a multi-pitch route...
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Mountain Man
Trad climber
Outer space
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We climbed this 2 weeks ago. Walked across lots of snow going up, and started off snow. Crux was very wet, and the feet didn't feel too secure for a few pitches. The hard ones. I thought my shoes might be wet.
All in all, a superb climb, worthy of the top 50. There was only one party on the climb when we were there. Three pieces of pro the first ptch and we never saw him again.
The walk off is way easy. I walked straight down the fall line with no problem.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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two days ago i did possibly a new variation to pitches 6, 7 and 8. from a belay 6, instead of traversing left to the crescent arching corner, go straight up a slightly grassy crack system. Starts out well protected. Laybacking a flake that looks too grassy but is actually pretty clean. Then there is an opportunity to angle up and left back to the regular route (right at the roof of pitch 6) or make a big step right. step right to an undercling flake out left leads to a 5.10a mantel and then a roof. The crack above the roof thins out (and doesn't take gear) and you make unprotected 5.7 traverse right to a cool aręte/corner. There is a 5.8 move here that is pretty runout. Then a few more feet and you are at a good ledge to belay with .75-2” cams. About 180 feet. This belay is halfway through pitch 8 on the topo. join the regular route to the summit.
PS: i'm calling it the Crowd Pleaser variation... because its a great way to avoid the crowds, pass parties, and, if you start sketching out on the runouts, you will be entertaining all the people on pitches 5,6, and 7.
Visit on supertopo.com
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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There is a lot of snow leading to the first pitch. This is not really a big deal. A bigger deal is the crux that is wet. Right now it feel harder than 5.9. There is some wetness after the crux and then the route is dry. Fiarview dome in the sun all day at the moment. later in the summer, the sun takes a different path and the route receives more shade.
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TW#T
Gym climber
Mill Valley, CA
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seems like a bunch of speculation, spritz spritz like my buddy ousley would say. Did it the other day, but really dont want to give beta. rub a dub snow in a tub.....over and out (hint hint).
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Greg Barnes
climber
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I've done it in late May, there'll be a lot of snow at the base, plus the first pitch will be running water at the crux (don't even open your chalk bag). However, I found with a light tape job you can jam straight through the water at maybe a grade or two harder. Good idea to have socks or pants on so you can dry your shoes off when they get wet.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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expect alot of snow at the base .. i'm not sure what the descent might be like then ..
.. the road to toulomne is expected to open may 14th
ricardo
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J-Dogg
Trad climber
colorado
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I will be in the valley in two weeks (May 15th), does anyone have any beta on the snow pack up in Tuolumne. I would like to do the regular route on Fairview if possible. Thanks.
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
colorado
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Climbed the route with a buddy who was on his first multi-pitch adventure. What a day. Got an 'alpine start' from Monterey and headed up to the meadows on Sunday, 26 October. Expecting to see a few cars at the pullout, I was stoked that we were first to arrive... FOR THE ENTIRE DAY!! And what a day. The route it totally dry including the crux section on the first pitch. The moves are still a bit slick but definitly well protected. In fact the entire route was incredibly well protected and the carry an extra set of nuts advice is really good. I linked pitches as in the posts below with no problem. All belay ledges with the exception of #2 are super comfy. Had sun on the last three pitches. One point of contention with the supertopo is that it identifies the hollow flake variation as having poor pro. This is not nearly the case. It is great fun and eats solid gear on the main wall. Still a little time left to get on this classic!!
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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showed up aroun 7 am .. and found 3 parties already at the base, the first part jad just passed the crux on P1.
waited about 2 hours to get on P1.
The firs 2 pitches went slowly as everyone was getting the belays sorted out, first 2 parties belayed at at the ledge above the roof on p2), and the third party belayed at the proper P2 belay .. so we waited.
We belayed right below the roof at the piton. (i was running out of gear!).
After this the route opened up and we never had traffic again. We made crescent ledge barely on 200' of rope after my hanging belay for p2.
did 1 pitch from crescent ledge to another big ledge, and then linked 2 more pitches. 1 more pitch took us to the big tree. simulclimbed from here to the top, which went fast, placing enough gear to always have at least 1 piece between us and slinging trees along the way. i had put the topo away while leading the simul, so i just sort of picked my way to the top, at some points i did some 5.6 face climbing but it was no big deal.
Topped out by 2 pm. (5 hours climbing total) -- we were at the grill by 3:15 eating some well earned burgers and beer.
great jamming route, awesome views, highly recommended.
ricardo
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malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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P1: Go the 200 feet to the optional belay
P2: Climb the 205 foot pitch (simul climbed up to the 5.8 pod on the topo) to the next optional belay above belay 3.
P3: From here climb to the 5th belay marked on the topo. Don't protect after the 2nd piton until you traverse back left from Crescent ledge and you will have enough rope, and prevent rope drag.
P4: Link 6-7
P5: 8th pitch as marked
We were first on the route, even with a "luxury start" around 9am. The climb took us about 4.5 hours, simul-climbing from the tree at the end of p8. I didn't see any need for a bolt on p7, even if one used to be there.
Perfect weather, great climbing and great views from summit.
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