Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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I just got this beta from a SuperTopo user: On It’s Better with Bacon, the first pitch can be well protected with 3 cams (#1, #2 and #4 Metolius offsets). For nuts need 2 ea BD #4 and #5. Both the cracks are quite uniform so that’s all that is needed.
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~kief~
Trad climber
state of Awakening
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Cool quick way to do this climb,as long as you're OK
leading the thin seam.
Lead seam,skip clipping p1 anchor and clip new bolt @
start of P2 that petch recently put in,link 1-2 with 60M
then link 3-4 (bolted way) 60M makes it,barely
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cencalclimber
climber
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As others have said, the pitch lengths are off. Pitch 2 and 3 cannot be linked with a 60 meter rope, although the topo says they add upto 190 feet. With rope stretch, you can just BARELY rappel from the top of 3 to 2 with one 60 meter rope. Tie knotts and have your diasy ready.
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steele
Trad climber
CA
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One of the best Hogsback climbs IMO. A choose-your-own ending type of climb. P1 seam then some face then some crack/roof at most 5.8 and well-protected except P1. Rap if doing another Hogsback climb or hike down far side if returning to car. Petch, you guide Lover's Leap? Thoughts on Traveler Buttress?
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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THANKS PETCH!!!
I did this route on Saturday. Rapped off the single bolt and was wondering if anyone was going to replace the missing one.
I was just a day early. Thanks again!!!
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Replaced the anchor bolt on the first pitch. Also added another bolt to the start of second pitch .
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NMR
Trad climber
Berkeley
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The bolt on the first anchor is still missing, the remaining bolt appears solid but I don't like the idea of rappelling off a single bolt.
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bergbryce
climber
East Bay, CA
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As of today (Sept. 24, 2011) there is a bolt missing from the first anchor. For belaying it's not a big deal as it's basically a huge ledge, but anyone who wants to TR or rappel the route, you'll be doing it from one bolt at the top of the first pitch.
This happened recently because I was on this route two weeks ago and both bolts with rap rings were in fine shape then.
Aside from the 2nd pitch, the route was a blast. I did a rope stretcher from the top of P3 to the top and my partner and I both thought it was a great pitch. Choose your own adventure style past the last anchor, and I managed to find another fun 5.8 roof just below the top. If you're afraid of lichen though, you'd better rap.
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Brilliantly contrived! I like slab so I really liked this climb, even more than Bear's Reach and Surrealistic Pillar, but less than Corrugation Corner, and did it twice within a few days. The first bolt on pitch 2 is a bit off the deck, easiest to reach by traversing in from the left. The crux 5.8 overhang was fun, even if a bit contrived. Pitch 5 wasn't much fun, appeared to have a few options (I traversed right to the "hanging tooth" and then back left), and my rope wound up running over a disconcertingly jagged 4' edge just left of the "hanging tooth." When rappelling from the 4th anchor, pitch 4 is about 95' (best to tie a knot at the ends of a 60 m rope) and pitch 3 is a few feet longer than 100' (60 m rope ends dangle several feet above the big ledge).
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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A very fun route. The third pitch is one of my favorite pitches at the Leap. Wonderful, moderate, slab. And well-protected. I give the slab pitches four stars but the rest of the climbing is two stars. The last pitch should be no stars since its so dirty and loose. The last pitch isn't worth doing unless you want to save yourself the trouble of rappeling so many times and you want to stand on top.
I was complaining to Brent, who was on the first ascent party, about the placement of the first bolt on the second pitch. I didn't like the fact that I had to climb over a small roof on holds that felt harder than 5.6 while facing a ledge fall. He gave me the following beta: "Why are you climbing straight up? You're at the Leap, everything traverses in." The second time I climbed the second pitch, I followed his advice and it climbed like a 5.6. So obvious, and yet, it wasn't. Fun stuff.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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From an earlier trip report (5/08) on the forum...
"One party on route seemed to be worth waiting for, and before too long I was up there wishing I had some RPs or something useful. That seam is thin. I strung the 1st two pitches with rope to spare. But then Zach strung the next two pitches, which were NOT 170', contra the ST topo. CMac's topo shows a 90' P3 and a 80' P4. Now, I'm no math genius, but a 60m ought to cover that pretty handily. I stood on the bolts but figured it was safer to just move up about ten feet. Zach made it to the anchor without incident, but be advised, and Zach ran an almost perfectly straight rope. I'm also curious how many people completely miss the bolt right below the third set of anchors. Might be fun to go that way, and I suppose the route is supposed to, but if you're following your feet, the natural line definitely steers you around to the right. Seems like a silly place for a bolt. In contrast the last bolt before the 4th anchors is perfectly placed. The fifth pitch could stand to see a little more traffic (dirty), but it was fun and gave a great view up top."
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Superb Route! Hit it with a 70 and then rap it (skip the last pitch, not worth it).
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Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
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Did this climb a few weeks ago. Very fun route once you find it. Can't believe it escaped a FA for as long as it did. We did the first four pitches as 2 with a 70m rope, and didn't notice any loose bolts. Last pitch is good practice for climbing crappy rock!
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Just got a note that one of the bolts on the first pitch is loose. if somebody has an adjustable wrench and is climbing this route soon, please tighten it (firm, not too tight.)
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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