It's Better with Bacon, Lover's Leap, Hogwild 5.8 |
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA | ||
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Avg time to climb route: 2 hours
Approach time: 10 minutes Descent time: 20 minutes Number of pitches: 5 Height of route: 500' Overview
Great intro to 5.8 multi-pitch climbing. Large ledges give the illusion that the wall is not as long and steep as it actually is. The first pitch climbs cool seams that only take tiny brass nuts and cams. If you’re not confident placing tiny pro, then climb the 4th class to the right and toprope this section. The second and third pitches climb face with bolts at the cruxes. At the second belay, step left to the corner to reduce the pitch to 5.6 (this makes the entire route only 5.7). The fourth pitch climbs the main corner with a few tricky bulges and good gear. It’s easy to miss the bolted anchor on the left. Most climbers rappel the entire route from the fourth anchor with one 60m rope. However, climb the dirty pitch to the summit if you want a stunning view of Lover’s Leap. From there you have three options: rappel with one 60m rope back to the fourth anchor and down the route, hike west down to the campground, or hike east down broken 3rd and 4th class slabs back to the base. Because the first ledge has many loose rocks, manage the rope carefully and don’t knock rocks onto climbers below. Photos
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