South Crack, Stately Pleasure Dome 5.8R

  
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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The GPS coordinates for this route are shown below. See the GPS Marker Legend at right for details on each marker. Click on the Marker to see the actual GPS coordinates.

Approach
Stately Pleasure Dome is located next to the east end of Tenaya Lake. From the car, scramble up slick 3rd class slab to the base.

Descent
Traverse up and left toward the headwall and a big tree about 200 yards away. Rappel from the tree or downclimb (4th class). Hike down intimidating 3rd and 4th class slabs, generally staying near the headwall. Climb down a short 4th class friction section (beware of water on the slab!) below a big roof. Then head left through a small notch to get down a 4-foot drop-off, followed by more 3rd class friction traversing below the 4-foot wall. Then, head straight down long 3rd class slabs toward the road and lake.
You can also hike up the dome above the tree, head west, and hike down behind the huge headwall. This requires a bit of routefinding, but is an option for those fearful of the 4th class friction, and is the wiser option if the slabs are wet.

It’s also possible to hike up and north, then down the gully between Stately Pleasure and Harlequin Domes, but the bushwacking will get ugly.

Stately Pleasure Dome - South Crack 5.8R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
This line ascends splitter cracks to face moves.
Photo: Greg Barnes