wstmrnclmr
Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
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Hi Al,
I just saw your post. I'd be happy to put a good anchor at the tree since it seems everyone keeps using the tree for an anchor and top rope. Hopefully it won't get chopped. I was going to replace an old climb but Clint beat me to it. Another tree that gets used a lot for an anchor is at the top of Swan slab itself. I'll look there as well the next time I'm in the valley.
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Al_Smith
climber
Oahu
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wstmrnclmr - If you are still planning to replace old bolts in the swan slabs area, can I suggest replacing the old single bolt atop bay tree flake. There is a flake behind which cams can be placed, but its tough to make a legitimate anchor out of that. I don't know that anyone would ever fall on P2 and therefore need much of an anchor, but if you are in the area rebolting, it would likely be a prime candidate. Just a thought...
P.S. Thanks for making the effort to re-equip some heavily used routes.
-Al
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wstmrnclmr
Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
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If we could talk the masses out of using pointless convenient anchors, what a wonderful world it would be. Problem is they'll keep using the tree, and as was mentioned, said tree wont be there down the road. It is a small one. So maybe better to save it instead of educating the masses which wont happen?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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I don't have much to say about that anchor, but the first pitch anchor on the old aid route around the corner could use some love, last time I checked.
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wstmrnclmr
Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
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I'd be happy to put the anchor bolts back if the consensus is saving the tree is better then keeping climb original as I assume is the reason the bolts got pulled? I'm going to replace some bad bolts on other climbs around there and would be happy to help that tree because it does get rapped and top roped from all the time.
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JD Morris
Mountain climber
Bay Area, CA
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Grant's crack was short but enjoyable. As noted below, there are no anchor bolts as shown in Reid and Supertopo. I found two chopped and two pulled bolts and expoxy, instead. I believe I used a #2 and #1 C4 in some pockets for an anchor, which I wouldn't have brought had I been sure there were bolts and there weren't a lot of other good options if you wanted to top rope or belay up a second without lousy rope drag. The "5.5" chimney adjacent to Oak Tree Flake is probably a decent walk off for anyone that can lead the 5.9 or 5.10a route up to the chopped bolts.
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pbeurskens
Trad climber
Seattle
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I second that there are currently two holes in the rock where bolts once were. This sucks because now the tree above where the bolts were doesn't have a chance of sticking around/living given that this crag is right at Camp 4 and a great warm up.
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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There's a fun 5.6 chimney above the Grant's Crack tree. We only had up to a #4 Camalot and had to chimney with no pro for about 20 feet or so. It was easy enough as the chimney was low angle, but if you had a #6 Camalot you could probably protect this section. At the top of the chimney, we traversed to the top of Bay Tree Flake and belayed from there. For the walk off, see Oak Tree Flake.
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Matt Leonard
Trad climber
California
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Great climb. The bolts are indeed gone (as of June 21st 2008), but an easy anchor can be built. Once you hit the obvious big ledge, continue up ~20 feet on easy 5th class to the little tree. The tree had no less than 7 or 8 slings around it (from 1" webbing to 4 mil cord!), with a pair of rap rings around the whole mess. You can easily backup the tree on the crack behind it, but we rapped off the tree, as had many before us.
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Toby
Trad climber
CT/VT
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The bolts atop of penthouse cracks are in place. Im glad we didn't have to use the skecty wooden block.
As for the tree that thing looks tiny I wouldn't mess with that thing.....let it live!
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Dadat
Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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Grant's Crack,
I just wanted to reconfirm that the bolts had been chopped a few weeks ago. They were really awsome bolts for Grant's Crack yet they created a lot of rope drag for the 10a and 10c beside them. Though those bolts were chopped there is a great tree to anchor to 10-15 feet higher then the bolts were placed. But don't get cocky, it is a little sketch getting to it but no problem at all. But none the less, it was my first and one of my favorite climbs in the valley. Great 5.9 beginners crack.
good climbing to all,
Dadat
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Yes, as I have heard, the new bolts that we placed have been chopped. We removed the old bolts (pre Grant's Crack) and the hangers were given to a local to add to his collection of climbing archives, which will soon become a museum (if all goes well). The anchors above the Penthouse Cracks were also replaced but I am unaware if they have been chopped as well.
I guess even bolt choppers get their bolts chopped...
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Legion
Trad climber
The Deli
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New bolts were put in somewhere around the end of June. Grant himself oversaw the operation. Are they chopped?
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Toby
Trad climber
CT/VT
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Bolts are shown in the topo...they are no longer there.
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Swan Slab offers the highest concentration of short, moderate routes in Yosemite.Photo: Chris McNamara
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