David D.
Trad climber
California
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You don't really need a #4 on this. We found a placement for a #2 up in the initial roof. The roof move and the few feet after it are definitely the most "tenuous," after that it is cruiser hands/fist-sized lieback.
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Fishdix
Big Wall climber
Lemoore, California
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Definately use a 4 bd at the beginning(also the crux in my opinion). I used a 3 bd because I thought a 4 would over cam it. I now have a fractured wrist because the number 3 wouldn't hold my fall haha live and learn. Top rope from jamcrack, you can swing over and set up a tr for lemon.
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Osprey
climber
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Anyone ever climb the second pitch?
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Ettore
Trad climber
Grass Valley
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Did this route in mid September of 2011. Theres a two bolt anchor at top of the feature thats easy to reach and is really bomb. For a short route it was really fun. If you did Jam Crack and feel confident give it a shot. The whole thing is a big lieback with some good feet if you stem a little. If you have a number 4'' BD use it in the beginning.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Tree is still there alright...even still one bolt remains as the "anchor" although there is a second stud. Future cleanup needs to pull the tree and build an equalized anchor. I was (Sadly) not able to do it this past weekend.
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Nikki Schnupp
climber
Claremont, CA
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The tree at the top of pitch one has toppled. It's hangin', slings and all, upside down over the route.
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