Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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sol_dog, you did not mention most important part - which side you were in? Doing p3 left side in is much easier than right side in.
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sol_dog
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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The first two pitches are great fun. Lovely cracks, flakes, and knobs abound. Plenty of protection, and fun moves.
The third pitch? Different story.
The first half is a nice easy chimney traverse, very secure. A few small cracks for a 0.4 and 0.3, and the piton on the other wall up high.
Once the chimney constricts, it becomes a different animal. I tried to keep straight through, but couldn't get my hips through, and my helmet was was incredibly annoying. So I tried going up and over- it seems a little wider, but when I tried to go back down through the "wider" part, my hips got stuck again. This time quite good. The crack was about 8" wide here, as I was measuring from my thumb to pinkie tip, touching both sides. (Well below the 10" definition for a squeeze). Legs flailing in space below me, I grunted and bled on the wall for 5-10 min until I could relieve a bit of pressure off my hips and move inch by inch back up to a rest stance. Completely owned by the squeeze, I climbed back to the ledge and collapsed in exhaustion. I didn't have the second effort in me. The party behind us then tried the same routes, and we're unsuccessful in the exact same way- through maybe a bit less grunting.
If I were to try that again-no helmet, nothing on my harness, and the smallest rack possible for the belay and pitch 4. And maybe try the sideways technique other commenters mentioned.
*Edit* I was left side in - left arm forward.
One of the most humbling climbs in a while.
Super impressed by anyone over 140lbs that has done that.
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pplachta
Trad climber
san jose, ca
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Hard not to love the positions on this route with the Merced river way down below, and the Rostrum right across.
Pitch #3 was interesting: it was definitely a squeeze, not a chimney IMO. I am 6 ft, 200 pounds, large frame, and can confirm the difficulties have to do ONLY with my hip size. I ended up having to do the squeeze horizontally for 4-5 feet, in fact, horizontally downwards [otherwise I kept falling down and my hips were getting stuck]. This ONLY worked with my butt on the right wall, as facing the chimney.
It took quite a few tries to figure out the geometry. The moves did not feel insecure, i.e., I wasn't going to fall. I WAS worried I might get stuck and not be able to get out -- which was the case a few times -- so it's best to remember how to reverse a certain move.
My wife had no trouble with the chimney at all.
I did this route ~August 20th last year in the afternoon and it wasn't too hot. This year I did in the morning and it was quite comfortable (1st 2 pitches are in the shade before ~11:30am. Squeeze pitch is obviously comfortable, last pitch gets shade longer).
There was never a single person on the route, but there are real mean red ants on all trees, and on the big ledge!! They bite mercilessly, and even followed me on the rope into the chimney.
Rapping down the double-rope rap could be an ordeal because of the ants, but doing the single raps is a total pain in the ass logistically. Pick your poison.
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Quite a fun route and a great way to end your stay in the Valley. A good alternative to the Direct Route; not as stellar, but still a very good route. Thought I'd include some beta here for those who'd like it.
1st pitch: The second half felt a bit stout and commiting for 5.6. If you're familiar with Munginella, this pitch was harder (of course, this is Yosemite). There is a huge and comfy belay ledge if you break out right towards the end of the pitch, however, you have to start the 2nd pitch with some bad fall potential.
2nd pitch: After the first pitch, the second pitch was a breeze, even though its rated harder. The topo calls for 3"-4" cams on the 5.8 lieback section. I got a #3 camalot in, but didn't see how a #4 would fit.
3rd pitch: The first half is intimidating since the ground drops away into a gaping, dark chasm as soon as you enter the chimney. Once you get into the squeeze part, though, it seems like you'd have to try pretty hard to fall. I'm 6' and 160 pounds and after I dropped back down I had to chimney horizontally on my side feet first since I felt too tall. We clipped our helmets to our harnesses and had no problems with them.
4th pitch: A super fun pitch. To get into the crack, I climbed the easy broken face to the right and then stemmed over. I kept wondering how far I was going to stem up before I committed myself to moving into the crack. The hand crack was too short for me; I wanted it to just keep going. Crux felt like the finger section. You can get a good rest when the crack moves from fingers back into hands. Look for the hidden handhold inside the crack on the right. Also, I didn't notice any 5.6 at the end unless it was just one move getting up off the slab and onto the flake. And at the end, you've got an awesome belay perch overlooking the highway and the Merced River.
We were smiling all the way home.
Thought I'd add some beta here about another way to climb the first pitch that I saw some solo climbers doing the other day that's not included in the guidebook. When you get to the second half of the pitch and you enter the stout 5.6 section, look for a hole in the rock where you can squeeze through. Then its an easy chimney up to the belay. Enjoy!
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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The chimney is fun (wife loved it) but narrow (don't wear your helmet). Not sure if we did the 5.6 or 5.8, as we did move up and then down but only for a few moves to get around a narrow. My wife protected the chimney with ballnuts and small cams, mostly for psychological reasons. The fist/fingers 9 after the chimney is relatively short. That moves into a ramp, and then you see the 5.6 around the corner. It's an edgy vertical flake that doesn't demand protection. Nice view.
More importantly, we did the Direct's last pitch on toprope afterwards. This really needs to be led. My wife did it much better than I because I foolishly worked on it as a full-on offwidth with my back to the main wall. (That was spicy.) I should have looked around. The ow (right side) does not need to be climbed using stacking, chicken wings, etc. much. In fact, there are small places for RPs and cams on the wall as Chris says in the book that can also be used for toes and fingers. After the 9 up the nobs from the ledge, move up and clip the pin and webbing moving up into the top of the corner. Face the main wall, and move diagonally 10'+ to the edge (where the chimney closes up above to the ow). Scoot up a little and then use the little cracks and divits on the main wall, and pull up through that section. Then you can use left foot heel-toe moves to finish off the ow. (Next time we'll surely lead it, but we had to get a move on yesterday.)
ml
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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I probably made the tunnel sound worse than it was. I had a water bottle on the side of my harness and it worked its way behind me and jammed. Also it wasn't trivial to find a secure way that fit, but when I did, I fit no problem.
There was a fixed pin in the middle of the tunnel on the south side that I missed (either I climbed above it, or was just facing the other way). I only learned about it when my second clipped something to it as a handhold, couldn't unclip it, and sent me down (from the top of the pinnacle) to retrieve the gear. Anyway, I'll look for it next time. Gotta be good for both climbers to have pro there.
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Sir Run-it-out
Trad climber
CA
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I'm 6 feet tall, and did this route in a party of 3 with another fellow who's 6'4", and a 90 lbs, 5'2" girl. It was most amusing to hear her curse and swear about not being able to fit through, after the two big guys made it without issue. No doubt poop*ghost will make a snide comment about my "hips like those a 14 year old Vietnamese boy," but Daniel weighs in at 200 lbs and is built like football player.
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Colt45
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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It gets really skinny about 2/3 of the way through, but if you sneak up a bit you can drop down again through a wider slot. This is one of the most adventurous pitches I have done in recent memory!
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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I'm 5'9" and less than 140lbs, and I had a helluva time getting through the tunnel. I made it though, and eventually, so did the somewhat larger follower. Don't try to take a helmet.
An alternative noone has mentioned is to traverse around the outside of the pinnacle. I haven't done it, but a friend of mine who is large enough that I can't imagine him fitting through the tunnel has done the traverse across the face. Couldn't guess how difficult it is, but it looks fun & sporty from the rap anchors.
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Matt M
Intermediate climber
CA
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Did this route yesterday. Fun climb - Great view! When you hit the HUGE ledge after the 2nd pitch, you get a great view of the Merced heading out of the valley.
Main reason for this post though is beta on the 3rd pitch "squeeze" chimney. I wouldn't recomend this pitch for anyone with less than an athletic build. I weight 178 am 6' and in good shape. I BARELY made it through. We're talkin take the helmet off, let the air out of my chest tight squeeze here. If you get stuck (chimney narrows as it goes down) you're in a world of hurt. When in doubt on this one, rap or do the .10a direct finish. Its a great adventure if you can fit though!
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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ANCHOR CONDITIONS
The following anchor conditions are provided by <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/'> The American Safe Climbing Assn.</a> Please support the ASCA. so that they can continue to replace dangerous anchor bolts on classic climbs throughout the United States. Find out how to help at <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/help.html'>www.safeclimbing.org</a>
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Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route - 2 bolts replaced at lower rappel station (above and behind chimney, bolts above 5.11c top-rope arete). You can do two rappels with one 60m rope, it just makes it to the ground at the start of the climb. Thank you Greg Barnes and ASCA.
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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