Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Did this climb after "Reed's Direct." I agree with spyork, the start was definitely the crux for me as well. I just faced straight in and did some grunty chimney moves.
After that, somewhat good feet appear on the flake and the crack to the right shrinks down to a large hand size (not quite fists for me). It felt a bit awkward getting out of the chimney at the top, but then the blessed chicken heads appear.
On the lieback section there are a few places to get smaller cams to about a #1 camalot since I also used up my larger gear in the chimney.
I was worried about our rope getting stuck in the chimney so after rappeling we made sure our rope ran down the face when we pulled it and, voila, no stuck rope.
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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The start for me was tricky. Once I got above my 1st piece the difficulty eased. I arm-bar/knee jammed the left side and fist jammed the right and it went well. I ran out of #3/#4 cams and ended up a bit runout at the top.
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