Arete Butler, Royal Arches Area 5.10a

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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  (3.0)
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Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 50%  (1)
2 star: 50%  (1)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Mar 9, 2013 - 12:28am
 
I had figured it was solid for the grade way back in the 90s when I lead it onsight. But last time I was on it, was a TR, so it felt pretty good even though I thought it was hard to get past the initial bolts. For some reason I recall that if you misread the sequence you could make it really hard. Kingpin, were hitting Table Mtn tomorrow if you're down.
kingpin

Trad climber
methdeathsto ca
Mar 8, 2013 - 10:04pm
 
Am I the only one who thinks this route is sandbagged? I fell on the ground a couple of times before reaching the mantel and then fell on the last bolt. Has it gotten slicker?
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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    Sep 14, 2008 - 06:32pm
This climb was harder than I thought it would be. The first 40' consists of sustained 5.10 slab moves, with the exception of an easy mantel. The lower half of the 5.6 crack is stellar but the upper half is rotten with marginal protection, though fortunately easy. The final 10' is a tricky, nearly holdless 5.8 trough, but fortunately it is well protected by a solid 1" cam at its base (I apparently overlooked the slot for threading a sling), and is the first bomber protection for about 40'. The hanging belay is miserable.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Redwood City
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    Jun 5, 2005 - 11:33pm
as of two days ago there was an intrusive tree branch that was scraping against the first 15 feet of unprotected slab climbing on this route. i was about 10 feet up this going full blast for the bomber ledge when said tree branch reached down and plucked my left contact lense from my eye . i didn't feel a thing , i just couldn't see sh#t . i was infuriated at the malicious branch , i jumped down in a fit of rage and ripped the foliage from the tree so that it could bother no one else.
i came back two hours later with a new lense and fired the route .
Royal Arches Area - Arete Butler 5.10a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.