the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Very nice. They way we did it, it seems you must clip the 3rd bolt, then back down a couple feet, go a little left, and pull the "5.10b slopey" crux. Then move back onto the arete for the "5.10b arete" crux at the 7th-8th bolt. Then move left to the 9th bolt.
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dude
Novice climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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i know since the mcdevitts did the new line with good bolts and the trough bolts sucked until last year (yep, asca, just checked their site)
actually knuckleheads probably would've got chopped if it was someone else on the FA or the new line wasn't so good
the right finish (trough) is more run-out, maybe you did something completely different?
you go up clip a bolt, then move right at 50', clip a couple, then move totally around the arete to a couple more bolts up super-steep knobs/mantels to the top
knuckleheads clips those same bolts at 50', then moves left past maybe 3 more bolts, a bit run-out but no biggy (just don't fall at that last move into the groove)
maybe you went left and did a new variation?
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Jason
Novice climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Sorry for the mixup, but I don't understand how you know which is which Dude? Staying to the right is consistent with the moves on the arete below and has more bolts. Going left continues to be runnout like the lower section on Trough and has similar moves.
To suppliment the pro on Trough you can bring a double runner for a knob about 45'. But yes, it is VERY runout (55+' grounder potential without the knob sling and 45' with!), yet that's not indicated in Reids guide, so beware. I did this climb thinking it was Knuckheads (serves me right for not looking at the guidebook). I was a little freeked, but it was easy terrain. Careful of the semi-loose jug at the bolt, yikes. Not ready to blow yet, but may get really loose over the years, or with a big pull. Actually I was glad I did it, it's a good route (2, maybe 3 stars), just be careful.
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dude
Novice climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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actually Knuckleheads crosses Trough, the line is correct
Trough ain't no sport climb, you clip 4 or 5 bolts in 120' including only one in the first 50' bolts are good now at least
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Jason
Novice climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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The picture on the beta page is inaccurate. The red line on the picture shows to work left of the arete about 2/3rds the way up, when in fact you should climb the right side of the arête. The left side is another 10b sport climb called Trough of Justice. The two climbs do share the same anchor (pair of ASCA bolts).
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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