Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Is it just me or does anyone else think the 5.5 right side last pitch has a death flake on it?
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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After 6th on the Saturday of Memorial Day. Now, everyone knows how crowded the Valley can get weekend holidays, and so the typcial strategy seem to defer the trip to the weekend prior or afterwards. Consequently,we had the entire route to ourselve all day.. Temps were perfect: mid to high 60's. I think this was one of the few dimes I've every been able to climb the Valley before Labor Day, and both partner and I were stoked!
Due the slick passage created by thousands of feets, I'd rather go out have have fun on some quality 5.10 then to grovel up that 1st pitch book/face, allegedly 5.6 – 5.7. Turns out that about 150 feet right is a 3rd right-facing, left trending Class gully, with a few face mores left and up to the tree ledges.
I haven't TR'd in a few years, and it's been longer then that for the Lead. Very nice season warmup. Lots of small stoppers, Aliens, TCUs, for the abundant but small pin scars.
While I was setting up shop base of the 4th, I notice that the 40 foot, or so, face climbing, rambled through some rather well preserved plates of glacier polish/striations. The only other remarkable specimens I've ever noticed the the Vally are over just east of Rixon's Direct West Face, about at 1/2 height.
When we got back to the car at dusk, the section of The Captain was out of the direct sun. And to the right of the East Buttress, I noticed in the somber dusk that the steep, 1,000 foot orange walls above and below East Ledges exhibited thousands of parallel, horizontal, glacier striations, east to west. I was pretty amazed, since I've been under the impression that the Wisconsian Glaciation quarried and repolished The Meadows about 10,000 years ago, and didn't extend too far down Valley. This leads to a speculation that the specimens we're seeing in the Valley dates from the Illinoisian Glaciation of 40,000 years ago, which have been subjected all the while to a scorching sun and heat.
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Park
Trad climber
Reno
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After Six is a great intro climb into the 5.7 realm and was my very first 5.7 lead. With only the 1st pitch rated at 5.7, the climbing is fun and very enjoyable. The 1st pitch of After Six is definitely the crux of the route. It starts off with sustained 5.7 hands and stemming on super polished granite. The crux is halfway up and feels super slick and even pumpy at times. Once you battle your way through the 5.7 crux, it's feels great to get to the tree and the big ledge. The remainder of the route is fairly casual with just a few 5.6 slab runout moves on the 3rd pitch to grab your attention. The 6th pitch of the route was the most exciting as you can feel the summit to the final belay tree.
Awesome climb, just be prepared for the 1st pitch and go after it!
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Todd Townsend
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Just a quick question, since the topo is a little unclear. For the 5.8 variation on the last pitch, do you traverse out left under the roof, or is there a way to pull straight over the roof directly?
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sfdben
Trad climber
san francisco
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Just finished doing After 7, C.S. Concerto and finishing the last part of After 6 and just wanted to give the heads up that there is some nasty bee activity just as you climb up on the ledge of the top of pitch 4. Looks like a nest got started under one of the rocks, tried to go around got stung anyways.
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nothingmuch
Trad climber
Israel
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I might just have low standards but this was one of the best climbs I've ever done.
We did the nice zigzag crack system on the the last pitch under the roof and then to the left over the arete. Beautiful and delicate, I would guess maybe 5.7 or 5.8. Be careful when you protect this though, some of the flakes sound choppy, I think taking a fall on a small cam might be enough to dislodge them.
The first pitch was the crux for me, the third was great (except when i thought my belayer was pulling me off the slab ;-), but the last pitch was the highlight for me, really delicate and interesting, weird mantles and invisible handholds with the occasional jug or lieback to let you rest.
I think the topo makes the second pitch look like it's going very far off to the right, but it actually wasn't that much. We did the nice lieback/face a bit to the right of the class 2 start, and ended up looking for pitch 3 way off to the right.
I also think that having duplicate cams is a bit excessive, as is the 3" cam. There are some really good nut placements all along the route. I had dups but ended up only using a yellow camalot c3 and a set of omega pacific link cams (purple, green, red, yellow) running out a bit over the really easy part.
On a personal note, today was my somewhat rude introduction to crack climbing, I had to keep remembering what I read on how to do it but eventually gave up and rested on gear... No redpoint for the 1st pitch, but who cares ;-) Eventually I realized I should take out the cam that's using up that great foothold and made it through.
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BoKu
Trad climber
Douglas Flat, CA
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I did this with my daughter on 8 November 2008, except that we did the first pitch of C.S. Concerto and then traversed onto After Seven (the second pitch of which some folks seem to consider part of After Six). That is probably the easiest way up the Manure Pile.
If you feel inclined to do this, note that the traverse along the ledge between first belays "C" (After Seven) and "E" (C.S. Concerto) on the SuperTopo is much shorter than it appears on the topo. It's as if the two tree symbols shown on the ledge depict the same tree. Maybe it was drawn that way so as to make room to show Just Do-do It in adequate detail.
The route was not crowded, but had more traffic than I would have expected, considering that Southside drive was closed and you had to walk in from Camp 4 or El Cap Meadow. We climbed with a party from France and one from Eureka, and a good time was had by all.
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Climbingaggie03
Trad climber
The road
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That first pitch is slick and tricky. It seems like there are maybe a couple of jams in the crack, and maybe a little stemming here and there. My opinion is the easiest way up the first pitch is after 7, the next crack over to the right.
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Josh Nash
Social climber
riverbank ca
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Hey guys I am new to climbing and especially trad climbing. My cousin's husband took me and a freind on this route for a first trad climb and I had the dickens of a time on the first pitch. I felt like a retarted beached dolphin flailing my way up. Nothing is as much a confidence wrecker as having to grab pro and aid climb some of the harder sections. It says that you use hands and stem but when I stemmed I couldn't really get good purchase. Anyone have any solid techinque that works? Would lie backing have worked better than jamming and stemming? Thanks.
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maestro8
Trad climber
San Hoser, CA
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Sorry for the cross-post, but I wanted to share a stellar ending variation. From the ledge at the top of pitch 5, start up a right-leaning crack near the left-facing corner and take it all the way into the corner at a roof. Climb left under the roof, placing .5 and .75" cams in pockets while smearing on the face. Looks hard, climbs easy, goes at 5.8fun!
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steele
Trad climber
CA
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after 6 is a classic but you might be waiting in line if you start climbing after 8. a lot of good variations, the further right, the more runout and exposed and funner.
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Climbed it with my 14-year-old son and another friend over Labor Day weekend. Expecting crowds, we started climbing at 7:30 am but nobody appeared to be on the rock until several hours later. Pitch 3 was definitely my favorite; we used (and endorse) the optional belay recommended by others below. However, I was puzzled by the description of the pitch in SuperTopo being the "psychological crux" with "poor protection." It protected very well and there was no need to stay left of the exposed wide crack for more than a few feet (there was a great crack for pro on the right side). My son led pitch 4, which we thought was merely 5.0 rather than 5.4. For me the "psychological crux" was the short and fun 5.6 traverse across the left side of the exposed face at the top of the climb (pitch 6). It wasn't run out but the prospect of a pendulum over the edge of the arete on the left was a bit unnerving (my last pro was a sling on a horn on the edge of the arete at the start of the traverse). ADDED MUCH LATER: I later watched others top out by climbing a corner to the right, which may be an easier "standard" finish.
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matty
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Just did the route 2 days ago. Great condition no wet spots, no bees.I suggust using the alt. belay station at the top of 3/start of 4. It is a larger ledge and has better placements for anchors. Lates-
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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its been like that since i started climbing (2 years ago)
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meg
Trad climber
Bellingham, Wa
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On March 17 I climbed the first pitch and expected to rappel from the rappel anchors (above Hayley's Comet) as indicated in the SuperTopo guide. However the bolts do not have any chains to feed the rope through. Does anyone know if it has always been this way, or were the chains removed?
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orbusrex
climber
The desert, Arizona
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My first Yos climb and I lead every pitch! Did the After Seven start and 5.8 'roof' finish. I totally recommend doing it that way. Belays are nice and easy but it was warm (July 17, duh!) Just the right amount of exposure for someone in the 5.8-5.9 trad range. Awesome welcome to the Valley...
ps... no bees
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dougs510
Trad climber
The desert, Arizona
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I did this route on 06/15/03 with my new friend Laura from So. Cal! The 1st pitch is the hardest and all 5.7 with good hands and pro in a right facing corner. Anything outside of the crack is very polished and slick. The best pitch is the third. It is very exposed and airy. What a great route.
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From over the Pond
Trad climber
England, UK
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Hi There,
I am comming over from England to climb in Yosemite in September - does anyone know if the bees still resident on this climb?
If anyone wants to suggest some quality 'must do' routes that will be most welcome. I will be in the Valley for a week and climb upto English HVS 5a (about 5.9) but don't want to push it on my first (of hopefully many) trips. I haven't done any aiding yet but would like to do some - planning to practice a bit over here first with mates who have. The mate I am climbing with has done some and has a double portaledge. Any suggestions you guys.
Looking forward to a great adventure!
If any of you guys need info on British climbs in return just ask.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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Climbed this on 3/22/03 -- i led the first pitch and also led pitches 4 and 5 ..
.. the first pitch was the hardest -- there are some fixed pieces just at the right moment though -- including a WELL stuck friend about halfway through ..
.. loved the huge belay ledge on the 1st pitch -- i used the bolts to belay my 2nd ..
.. tride to run pitch 4 and 5 together -- (my partner neglected to tell me it was 55m rope) -- but ran out of rope about 3 meters from the end of pitch 5 -- i was stuck on the easy nobby face -- sunk a 3.5 cam behind the large flake on the right .. and asked my partner to simul climb -- (alot of confusion followed, since we hadn't discussed the option beforehand -- and i ended up giving him a belay from 1-CAM! .. while he climbed about 5 meters) ..
.. finally got up to the end of pitch 5 .. belayed of a tree ..nice ledge!
 ricardo
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smitty
Intermediate climber
San Francisco, CA
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I did this route about a month ago. It was great fun, but the only bummer was the amount of people. There was a traffic jam similar to the bay area. However, I met several interesting people at each belay. Be careful of the cam eating crack on the third pitch...use a runner! Another word of caution. Right at the top of the regular 5.6 ending is a block just under the tree. My girlfriend stopped there as I belayed to cast a smile and give a high five when the whole thing rocked and shifted... I would hate to see that thing go down on the crowds below!!! The top is a great place to be, and the gully down is horrible...this is a good example of a time when NPS should cast some attention toward some of the more popular climbers trails...before erotion ruins it.
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Wall Kid
Novice climber
San Francisco, CA
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On the second pitch use runners like all hell. i found the rope drag horrendusly bad. After you get out of the big flake chimney and you start the little crack before the ledge the bottom of that crack is the best stopper placement I have ever seen you could hang a bus off of it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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VirginiaErik
Intermediate climber
San Francisco, CA
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My wife and I intoduced ourselves to Yosemite Valley climbing on this route. The first and last pitches were my favorite. At the belay just before the last pitch I saw an older gentleman casually dressed with a ball cap free soloing the route. He arrived at our belay just as my wife joined me there. I immediately recognized him as none other than Royal Robbins. Maybe for Valley regulars he is a common sighting, but for someone who grew up in New Mexico and now lives in Virginia it was a treat indeed. (I bought a copy of "Basic Rockcraft" back in 1974 just to date myself). While he caught his breath he mentioned that the left variation (5.7) which is a dihedral that leads to a roof is more asthetic finish as compared to the more commonly climbed (5.6) righthand finish.
Of course we climbed his recommended finish!! Thanks RR!!
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steel
Intermediate climber
San Francisco, CA
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As 4/25/02, the tree on the first pitch is gone. Dirt, grease and absence of tree make it feel like 5.7. I did it with my father several 4 years ago and it felt like 5.5! Pitches 2-5 seemed too easy if you're 5.10 or better. A good alternate ending-- go left at last pitch up 30' of thin flake that goes about 5.7 and tight pro. After that, try a mantel up short, overhanging 1" crack(5.7) that is to left of mentioned flake. Easy, exposed scrambling to summit makes for a more exciting final pitch. Ryan from Pacifica-- call Steel, it was a pleasure leading you up your first multi-pitch!
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Nathan Lunstrum
Trad climber
South Bend, IN
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As of Nov. 21, 01 the tree on the first pitch is gone and the crack in that area is very dirty, we found it easier to step out right on the face and up a couple of moves, then back left to the crack. I was expecting the 3rd pitch to be really mentaly challenging but found it not so bad, if you're an ok 5.7-5.8 leader the moves feel very secure. We belayed from the upper alt. 3rd belay, and found we could link the last of the climb in two pitches, with a 60mm and some rope drag. Overall a great climb, very enjoyable. Buy the supertopo! It made our climb alot more enjoyable.
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Jer Collins
Advanced climber
South Bend, IN
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Joe Metz! that was my wife and I on that route when I was stung by bees. It was day 5 of our honeymoon! How funny to find our little epic reported here. Those buggers were in my ears, my shirt, and my pants. We bailed to the merced after that and cooled of my wounds. Were you the one who said he was extremely allergic to bees; but when asked if you had any epinephrine you shook your head and said "nope- left it at home"? That made me laugh...and worry. Glad we didn't have to haul you out...
Too Funny!
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oldguy climber dude
Intermediate climber
South Bend, IN
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Most of the tree in the first pitch has fallen out, a little branch is left
but is easy to climb past- the branch could impale you if you fell on
it though.
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Harry
Intermediate climber
South Bend, IN
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As advertised, the first pitch is greasy and it was a push for me (a novice leader). Also, the dead tree part way up pitch 1 is loose. My climbing partner and I agreed that the 1st, 3rd, and 6th pitches were more difficult then the 4th and 5th (pitch 2 is an easy 3rd class). The optional belay higher on pitch 3 was the ticket; the rope drag was not bad. My #4 BD cam came in handy below in that wide crack. I found the psychological crux to be the face climbing on pitch 3, when you move out to the right above and away from the exposed wide crack. I also found that higher on the route the moves were easier but at times not well protected. On pitch 6 you need to stay to the right, and head right when you see a nice little ledge heading to a larger ledge with a bush on it. From there it's easy moves to the top and a great view. A wonderful climb!
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Chris Strouthopoulos
Advanced climber
South Bend, IN
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If you are feeling warmed up, a 5.8 alternate provides a spectacular finish that picks up where the first pitch left off. At the top of the 5th pitch, move left onto a large ledge with several trees. Ascend the lieback flake up the back wall with positive moves on great holds. From a rest ledge on the left, either ascend the sparcely protected but moderate arete directly above or step right and continue up the face for more sustained climbing. The flakes can can be thin, sink pro as deeply as possible.
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Joe Metz
Advanced climber
South Bend, IN
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While waiting to get on After Six Friday afternoon (July 27, 2001), we watched the leader ahead of us set up a belay in the tree at the top of the first pitch. As his second started up, he was attacked by bees. The situation was bad enough that he had to lower his partner back to the ground and move the belay to the ledges above. He was stung more than a dozen times. We avoided the problem by bypassing the tree on the face to the right.
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Steve Fettke
Novice climber
South Bend, IN
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I'm glad to see this rated 5.7 here not 5.6 like other topos. The first pitch is 5.7 and the rest easier. You can bail to the left after the first (best) pitch. When descending don't go all the way to the top of Manure Pile. Just go to the left (facing upwards) at the top of the climb. And look for the worn scramble to get into a gully right next to manure pile. Then after a few hundred feet look for a trail out of the gully to the right. We missed this the first time and slid down the gully the whole way, (it was getting dark and no head lamps, dumb).
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After Six is the left start.Photo: Todd Snyder
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