Archie Richardson
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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First pitch has a pretty burly 5.9 move. Don't feel bad if it shuts you down. Many of us have been shut down here over the years. Just because RR thought it was 5.8 in 1962 doesn't mean it will feel 5.8 to you.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Climbed this for the first time today. That first pitch is 5.8d haha. All three of us in my party did it differently. I used more OW arm bar technique, my girlfriend did a lieback stem combo, and my buddy climbed left of the wide section and kind of bear hugged his way in via the face. As someone said earlier about the second pitch cat walk, I found it easier to traverse about 5 feet farther left and then mantle up to reduce catwalk time (I hate thin catwalks)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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A very nice Variation heads straight up the ramp/RFC above the 1st belay ledge.
On P2 you do the wandering ramp moves and continue up rather than making the 1st traverse left.
190ft pitch
5.7 ish, most of the pitch is fingers. 2 bolt rappel + a fixed nut and tat.
The corner grabs ropes that are >9.0mm so be sure to thread the rap with the larger rope.
Never done and really good climbing, especially if the 3rd P on LJ is backed up.
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Like everyone else says, the crux is pulling through the little roof on the first pitch. Luckily, I was able to rest in the chimney after the crux. I got the first pitch clean, but I felt brutalized by the time I got to the bolts.
For me, the mental crux of the second pitch was the 5.7 mantle. I'm taller so I mantled over on the left side of the ledge where the hands were better to avoid the short catwalk traverse. I'd be interested to know what other people thought of this mantle. For the thraverse higher up, once your feet are on the slopey bulge, there is a bomber knob down and to the left. As I stepped across I kept my right hand on the rounded corner until I could reach into the left crack. Everyone in my party said the footholds were more bomber than they looked.
One other thing: every pitch has its own unique character so you get a good dose of variety spread out over three pitches. Unlike Charles and Jason, I have yet to do Braille Book and Hailey Dailey. But I agree that this climb is definitely harder than Bishop's Terrace, Nutcracker, Ejesta, and I'd say maybe even the Regular Route at Reed's Pinnacle. For me, it's the physical and insecure nature of the first pitch crux.
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sling512
Trad climber
Chicago
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Did this route Saturday, fun and in the shade in the morning. I admit I climbed too far on the second pitch to step over... strange little section. Over all it was fun! Beware of the roosting mystery white bird in the crack next to the rap station!! My '96 Reid guide showed the 1st belay in the wrong spot, strange.
-sling
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Duke-
Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
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I have been on this route several times, and enjoyed it each time. I took two whips onto a nut at the crux first pitch (I don't care who you are or how hard you climb, when it is hot out, this is a slick section.) Fun!! The fall is short and well protected, though my partner Dice-K's eyes were like water melons. Ha ha ha. Another time I was on it, a freak snow storm blew off the Cap'n and blindsided Mellisa and myself. We shivered up and rapped off. Super fun lil' number!
-D
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Finally got on it after twenty + years of walking past it, exceptional fun and most of the chimney down low can just about be avoided with stems. Recommend doing the route in 2 pitches, belay just before the step left ( only obvious knobs going sideways, don't know how the party above us missed it?) at the angle and protect the belay before stepping across, actually the step moves are easy compared to the little bulge in the first pitch and getting into the '5.7' hands on the last pitch. Try to get a few peices in for the second or they might get hurt as they bang left 40 feet. Fun little adventure, wish it was thirty pitches longer. Bail on fixed lines or feed your own, wear a helmet, there is a lot of beautiful stuff above you.
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KarlP
Social climber
Queensland, NorCal, Iceland
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Charlie has it right. My partner and I just did, and ended up continuing up to the belay at the start of Dorn Direct instead of traversing. Follow the crack up above the pod at the right end of the sloping one foot wide shelf that rises to the original belay (read the reid book, and belay there, not at the bolts above Sunday Driver) There's a piton in the back there, and it's a pretty decent belay stance. Up from there, and slightly above where the crack to your left stops being vegetated, there's some fairly obvious knobs. It's easiest to traverse on these with your feet, not your hands. It's a bit of a step, but just push over, and grab the crack with your hands.
Continuing up is in my opinion, 5.9, not 5.7lb, as both Chris Mac and Reid say. Anchor up there consists of a 1/4" rusty jewel, two and a half old tiny fixed nuts, and a beautiful 3/8" bolt. There's one bit of tape on the good bolt, and rat's nest of tape connecting the rest of it together. A knife and a quicklink for the good bolt would be a good deed for anyone interested. Getting down from here you _need_ _two_ 60m ropes to get back to the bolts above sunday driver. (or scramble sideways on the easy ground above the slot unroped on 50s)
Oh yeah, and if "stout adventure over three pitches" wasn't warning enough, this is very stiff 5.8, compared to things like Harry Daley and Bishop's Terrace.
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DS
Novice climber
Queensland, NorCal, Iceland
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I did this route last week. It is very fun for a short 5.8 route. I know Chris warns against going too high on the second pitch. I found that going a bit higher and using what Charlie(post above) describes as hand holds for foot holds instead was pretty straightforward.
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Charlie
Novice climber
Queensland, NorCal, Iceland
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Great route. The crux for me is the bulge 30 feet off the ground on the first pitch - not pretty. Second pitch is great; starts off easy enough then the psychological crux - the traverse. Go up to the second piton; then a little higher. You will see two hand holds. Switch feet then reach out far with the left foot to a depression. Once you get your left hand into the crack you have it made and can place a piece for your second. Third pitch begins with a bulge - jam it, reach high and pull through - then beautiful jams in a low angle crack. Only problem with the third pitch is that it is too short. I did not find the rock to be as polished as I thought it would be. This is a little gem of a climb. Higly recommended.
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Charles
Intermediate climber
Queensland, NorCal, Iceland
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The comments in the supertopo are a little deceptive: on
the second pitch, do not "go left at first chance" -
if you do so you will encounter a series of run out face
moves. Follow the crack up until you see a second piton
(not marked on the topo). Looking left, you will see some
small foot placements. Traverse here.
The third pitch, which has an overhanging off-hands crack,
is very slick at the crux. The move is well protected, and
there's even a piton just beneath the overhang.
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Jason Hassing
Intermediate climber
Queensland, NorCal, Iceland
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I was pleasantly supprized how good this climb is. The second pitch is really awesome. It features interesting travers moves and the very best 5.8 finger crack you'll ever see. Too bad it's only 20 feet long and has a loose block right next to it.
A stiff 5.8 compared to Braile Book or Nutcracker. Anchers are solid. Aliens and TCUs worked great for all sections, especially the final 30' of the first pitch (or beginning of second depending on where you set the belay).
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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ANCHOR CONDITIONS
The following anchor conditions are provided by <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/'> The American Safe Climbing Assn.</a> Please support the ASCA. so that they can continue to replace dangerous anchor bolts on classic climbs throughout the United States. Find out how to help at <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/help.html'>www.safeclimbing.org</a>
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Little John Right – anchor is now bomber.
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The base routes are scattered to the left of the SE Buttress.Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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