Meat Grinder, The Cookie Cliff 5.10c

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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   Sep 21, 2010 - 12:14am
Meatgrinder rules!
Climbed it once over twenty five tears ago now. Got to lead the second pitch, stands out crystal clear in my minds eye today.
Golden, burly, leaning and excellent. Watched Werner climb it without a rope once. Jehayzuz!
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Sep 20, 2010 - 09:50pm
 
I luv Meat grinder... I did the first pitch while a friend was working on the first pitch of the "great " climb just to the left.....Finger something 11+.... then Werner and Merry show up and WB climbs the 11 with about 3 Pieces, crazy sh#t man.
Then a tree cutting buddy from my home town shows up and leads Meat grinder with about 2 Pieces on the second pitch, Crazy Bastard......Beer is good and God is great.....
casey

climber
oakland
Sep 19, 2005 - 02:15pm
 
"sustained at 5.9", ha, awesome. the 1st pitch felt 5.9. the 2nd one did not. i ran into merry braun at the base who gave me the following beta:
"you'll be fine, just don't fall. whatever you do, don't fall. also when you get up there, don't fall."
sweet!!

so i didn't fall but i brought lots of wide stuff, for once more gear than was recommended in supertacos if y'all can believe it. i brought a 6 friend, a new c4 #5, 3 #4s, a 3.5, 2 #3s, assorted smaller gear, and placed all of it. there is a section nearer the top that's super wide and *scary*. i'm guessing this is where merry told me not to fall. supertacos recommends doubles up 3.5 and a 4.5 i think. if you like having security on wide stuff, i'd bring more.

anyways, i thought this was really fun and an ass kicker, but definitely cookie classic.
The Cookie Cliff - Meat Grinder 5.10c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Todd Snyder
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.