martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
|
 |
I believe when I did this route it was 5.9
|
Sir loin of leisure...
Trad climber
I'm from Idaho..bitch
|
|
it's a fine route....if your tears don't get the rock all wet...sheez..
|
PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Draperderr, by Bangerter, Utah
|
|
Lower half is pretty tricky, but protects by sliding a #6 C4. Upper half protects by sliding a #5 C4, and you can leave some backup gear in the blocks inside the top of the pod just before the crux. I placed pieces a little too high and the slings got in the way of my legs on lead, so it is probably best placing a #3 or #4 C4 lower in the blocks instead. Save #4 C4 to protect the exit if you have one. You're not far above the #5 at this point, but the exit is a tad awkward and very easy to protect with the right piece.
The route gives you a great workout on your right arm and it is easy to get pushed cams stuck on both sections (doh!). Great for doing laps.
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
this route is felt way harder than 10a if you have med size fists ( small fists is even worse). been spanked on lead - later figured out on TR that calf locks with hand stacks is the ticket on crux section
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
I think this is a great OW problem to work, the crux is up high and if you don't have orangutan strength, arm span and natural ability you actually have to have good OW technique. I can't think of a better place to work on that...
here is scuffy b in the crux
[Click to View Linked Image]
more beta here: http://www.widefetish.com/routes/doggie_do/doggie_do.html
|
scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
|
|
Are you sure it's sarcasm that you're dishing?
|
maestro8
Trad climber
San Hoser, CA
|
|
Does anyone on this site have a sarcasm detector that's in working order?
|
scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
|
|
That's a pretty harsh evaluation, for a climb you couldn't do.
Is "absolute dog shit" simply a synonym for "too hard?"
|
maestro8
Trad climber
San Hoser, CA
|
|
What's the problem Rhodo, couldn't find a little kid to steal lunch money from? Can't find a puppy to kick?
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
|
|
Translation: waaah.
|
maestro8
Trad climber
San Hoser, CA
|
|
This climb lives up to its name... it's absolute dog sh*t. Total fvcking garbage. Set up a toprope and put someone you hate on the climb. Then sit back and get munched by mosquitoes while you belay.
Both sides of the crack flare, making foot stacks quite difficult. The armbars feel totally insecure. Thankfully, this climb isn't dead vertical... it's a bit slabby. Your only reprieve are a few knobs here and there to help your progress, should you even get close to them... they aren't exactly near the crack.
Just as MikeL promised, below, I got nowhere. The only way to progress on this climb, my partners told me, is to move a millimeter at a time. I was trying to inch up... I just don't get the metric system. Looks like I need to go back to OW school.
|
MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
|
|
Terrific workout. At the top (crux), you need long arms (longer than mine--I'm 5'8"). This climb will force you to learn technique--heel-toe, cambering feet, arm bars--otherwise you'll go nowhere. I got very frustrated at times. My wife thought that getting over the block midway up was the business; that's where she lost her feet on the climb; above that arm bars and double fists.
|
|
|
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
| | | | | | | | | | | | |
