Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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WOW WHAT A ROUTE!!!
Did Silent line variation. Crack climbing pitch 4-8 is one of the most enjoyable free climbing I have done in the valley. Liked it more than central pillar of frenzy (p1-5). Wildest imaginable tunnel through a chimney, hand crack that was better quality than Reed's Direct, crack almost as fun as lunatic fringe (but less sustained), and 2 superb 5.9 varied hand cracks with a 10b roof thrown in. GREAT route.
Approach was easy to follow if you keep your eyes opened. Not as bad as approach to braille book IMO.
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jclimb1
Trad climber
Moab, UT
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Thanks for the beta. I kind of figured it wouldn't be ideal, from what I've read and looking at the topos. Without being able to see it for myself, I just needed someone to confirm my concerns. I don't think I'm going to be too stoked about getting out of my aiders for some solo 5.9 thrutching at that point.
Sorry for pluggin up the beta section. I should have asked this question on the main forum.
Thanks,again.
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Erik Sloan
Big Wall climber
Yosemite Big Wall
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Hi J,
As someone who has aided way more free climbing than most folks would admit, I would say that the Gold Wall is not the best solo aid route. The 5.9 offwidth right off the belay on pitch 9 doesn't have any pro unless maybe you had a couple 10" pieces, and even then I'm not sure. That section is a flaring water groove thing that you thrutch up for 10' to a ledge and then get in more continuous cracks.
But GW/SL is characterized by flaring or deep cracks, which are the worst for aiding. Your cam is always back in the crack a little bit so don't gain much vertical per move and getting your last piece out can be a pain as your weighted aiders lie on top of it. And besides the pitches are mostly 10aish so you would be jonesin for a belay and easy pluggin/cruisin.
Beautiful spot. You won't be disappointed by the location.
e
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jclimb1
Trad climber
Moab, UT
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I'm looking into aid soloing this route in March. I'm wondering if the "5.9 ow and chimney" on pitch 9 and the 5.9 chimney stuff on pitch 11 can be aided or if they are required free climbing?
Thanks.
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hobo
climber
PDX
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The second pitch takes either small wires stuff or #5 camalot size. Really. The camalot makes the aiding much quicker on this pitch. (if your aiding) Just a tidbit.
Alex
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Erik Sloan
Big Wall climber
Yosemite Big Wall
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I wrote the strategy section for this route and believe it needs a little touch up:
Now that the Silent Line free variation is clean and the preferable way to go even if you're aiding it is pretty unfeasible to bivy on the ledge. A ledge for one doesn't do most parties too much good anyway. The best strategy for this route now is to fix two or three pitches and bivy at the base--more like an alpine wall. If you fix three it's all splitter cracks with a little wide to the top (much easier than the first two pitches).
Pitch 3 Silent Line anchor now has 2 bolts, as do anchors 5 & 6 (pitches 6&7 in the Supertopo book as per the aid line).
I think pitches 7 & 8 are pretty similar, didn't find the 10b move on P7 the last time i was up there.
Awesome, sunny, splitter route.
enjoy it
e
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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great trip report here
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=565515
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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a pretty minor point here, but on your GOLD WALL supertopo, the 2nd belay has a note next to it that says "205' to ground"....i'd have to say it's more like 220-225'. i had to build an intermediate belay and have my partner go to the 1st anchor and rescue me...
also, in the middle of the 7th pitch, there is a large horn that can be rappelled off of that will get you to the ASCA bolts at the top of the 5th pitch on the Gold Wall.
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durban
climber
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Run-it-out,
We belayed at that same ledge with the one rusty bolt you mentioned. From there we made it in one pitch to the bolt below the chimney/roof pitch. I definitely think this is the coolest way to do it, and the perfect hands past the tree are a just reward for the vegetated groove below. The belay at that ledge is ok with some small gear backing up the worthless bolt, but if anyone's running up there anytime soon and wants to replace it, I'm sure future parties would appreciate it!
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Sir-Runitout - awesome job!
You report: "P4 very heavily vegetated."
We went too high on p3 (oops) and belayed at the Gold Wall p3 belay. We ended up swinging into the crack on p4 as we were above the traverse. From where I swung over, I found very little veg. There was a little grass right where I started the crack on p4. Perhaps the veg is lower down(?). Once you get into the big shallow groove on p4, it's clean/beautiful/amazing 5.10 fingers all the way to the tree belay. Yeah, the alternate tree belay sucks - go higher if you have enough gear left. Perhaps the swing over up high is the way to go, avoiding veggies. Only problem is that you get some bad rope drag unless you don't put in pro until you're well above your belayer; you can just back clean.
"Topo shows anchors at the top of the free variation of P3 as being below that of the aid line... Only found a single, old, rusty bolt at the small ledge 15' above the traverse..."
We never even saw this bolt.
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Sir Run-it-out
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Tried Silent Line on 6/9/6. P2 awkward and burly. P4 very heavily vegetated. Topo shows anchors at the top of the free variation of P3 as being below that of the aid line, yet the pitch length is shown as 40' longer. Only found a single, old, rusty bolt at the small ledge 15' above the traverse where topo shows two. The Reid guide shows a belay considerably higher. Is there an error on the topo?
You can indeed rap from the top of P2 to the ground with two 60m ropes, assuming you weigh enough to stretch the rope sufficiently. Don't let go of the rope when you touch down!
Bring a jacket for the belay on the ground - you're in the shade, and the mist from the falls can be a bit cool. Feels great once you reach the sun!
The trail is not entirely impossible to follow.
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
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Beta on wetness from the falls (if they are going):
Silent Line does not stay dry all day long, but it does most of the day. The lower parts of Gold Wall and Silent Line get wet after about 7PM (when the sun goes around the corner). However, it dries out over night. By the next morning - dry again and climbable. Don't try climbing the lower pitches after 6/7PM. In other words, do not try to fix a rope up to the top of p2 the night before, if the falls are going. You'll get really wet.
Seems to be some kind of phenomenon with the head of the sun and the water spray. Really cool.
If falls are going, you can fill up from the creek (if you have a filter or iodine). Hike down 50 feet from the base, then cut over. Don't try to fill up right below the falls or you get really wet, and it's more of a bushwhack. You can get right under the falls if you want - amazing to see 1000 feet of water coming right at you, esp in the moonlight.
Also, the free variation (Silent Line) is one really awesome line - better than south face of the column. One of the few 5.10 sustained routes in the valley (w/ good quality rock).
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Let's not forget 'Laughing At The Void' (V, 5.9 A3+)....just right of the Gold Wall route. Quality route....save for the ugly 2nd pitch OW.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Justin, see Mike Dahlquist's comments. Big gear for the first two pitches. Except for the short bolt ladder, it's mostly 5.10.
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NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
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Question...Are the first 2 pitches of 'Gold Wall' the standard start to 'Silent Line', or does that route have its own distinct begining?
If SL has a unique start, how is it? Free...aid?
If not, how is the aid on GW, does a standard free rack suffice?
Thanks,
Justin
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BDizzle
climber
Albany, Ca
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Gold Wall is fun, but not as classic as the South Face. 2 bros and I did it a week ago in a single push and had a good time. We did rap after pitch 10 due to darkness, fatigue and a mungie looking pitch 11. I believe the funest pitches were 1, 3, 5, 6, and 7. My favorite being pitch 6. Some tips for the climb would be that all the belays after 5 are fixed gear(ie.nuts,pins,etc.) with supplemental personal pro. To rap the route with 60 m ropes you go from 10 to 8, 8 to 6 (barely), 6 to 4, 4 to 3, 3 to 2, and 2 to the ground. There is very little fixed gear on the route. The ledge on top of 4 is excellent for one person and the location of the climb is unique and fun. Be prepared for some chimneying and you'll have a good time.
Word.
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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Attempted this route over the 4th of July weekend, if you're not going to free the 5.10 or so flaring chimneys and offwidths low on the route, be prepared for a lot of work trying to get aid placements in pin scars in the back of these cracks, not to mention how much work it is to stand in your aiders when they're shoved way in the back of these cracks. Big cams (#3 camalot and up) proved very helpful, as did offset aliens.
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no nickname
Trad climber
yosemite
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Go around the backs side of the block. There's a three foot gap that will spit you on the face.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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What's the real beta on getting around the block in the middle?
Almost pretended to do this with some friends awhile back. Did the first pitch and realized I didn't want to haul.
LOL!!!!
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clustiere
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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?????????????????????
Whats this , new routes?????
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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