Dihedral Wall, El Capitan A3 5.8

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 9, 2009 - 12:12am
 
Here is a great article on the first ascent of dihedral wall:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=439672
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 25, 2008 - 09:59pm
 
Tommy Caldwell's account of freeing Dihedral Wall in AAJ 2006

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=731370
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 14, 2008 - 10:23pm
 
Here is a great trip report on a clean ascent:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=619541
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Sep 2, 2004 - 11:17am
 
Tommy Caldwell just sent me the beta for the free Dihedral Wall--which is maybe the hardest big wall free climb in the world right now. Here is the free climbing SuperTopo:

http://www.supertopo.com/topos/yosemite/dihedral_free.pdf
Paul Brunner

Advanced climber
Mill Valley, CA
Aug 10, 2001 - 01:16am
 
Thanks, again, for your great topo you sent me in December. And, thanks for re-bolting the belays! Truly wonderful! I just got back from soloing Dihedral and wanted to give you some feedback on your topo:

 From p4, it is 3 ropes (50m) to the ground with two good (3/8" rawl) bolts at each station (sb). From p5, it is 4 ropes. All the bolts are on the face. There is also a variety of other mystery bolts on the face (some button-head, others 1/4" expansion).

 I put nuts on all the rivets that had screwable heads. I think only 3 rivets are now w/o nuts.

 I left a Petzl hanger on your p18 bolt. I did not place any bolts on the climb.

 On your topo, you may want to indicate to go to the higher belay on P19 (Black Cave) and show the Horse Chute merging climb + (lower) belay.

 Pitch ratings (mine are conservative, sort of like Brad Jarrett's/Tom Evan's):
P1: 5.7, A1+
P2: C2
P3: A2+
P4: A2
P5: A1
P6: A1
P7: A1+
P8: A2
P9: A2 (lower) & A1 (upper)
P10: A2
P11: A2
P12: A1+
P13: A2
P14: A2
P15: A2
P16: A2
P17: C1+/5.9
P18: C1+
P19: A1
P20: 5.10 chimney, then A1+
P21: 5.10 gully to Thanksgiving ledge

 To W.Buttress is 180m. 4th class DOWN (or rap fixed lines) for 20m, then up along the ledge.

 Rack
6 LA's: 1 #1
2 #2
2 #3
1 #4
Angles: (Lucky short angles work well)
1 1/2"
2 5/8" (one which is sawn)
2 3/4" (one which is sawn)
2 1" sawn
1 1.25" sawn
1 set brass offsets
2 sets of offset nuts
1 set blue/green/yellow regular aliens
1 set off-set aliens
cams: 2 ea. to 3.5"
1 ea. 5"
hooks: Pika big hook & cliff hanger
Big Leper cam hook
2 aluminum heads
8 rivet hangers
4 wingnuts
El Capitan - Dihedral Wall A3 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Dihedral Wall is route number 2.
Photo: Tom Frost
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.