jugander
climber
Seattle, WA
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Small correction on the descent beta in the guidebook: For the descent off Paisano and Burgundy (on both page 205 and page 213), the guidebook says “…look for a lower anchor above a small slab on the lower end of the far northeast wall There usually are anchors here.” This anchor is in fact on the *southwest wall* of the sub-peak, visible straight ahead of you if you’re descending down off Paisano. The rap goes into the northwest running gully, not the northeast running gully, and reaches Burgundy col down and to the west of the col’s high point.
If you study the topo for the north face of Burgundy route, page 215, this is all very obvious, but we had only photographed the Paisano topo/descent pages, and were thrown off by the “northeast” direction. All went well, we trusted our instincts over the guidebooks directions!
Other beta for the West Face of Paisano: The approach is long. The start of the route is indeed hard to find. The "5.8+ funky" variation of P5 has pretty crumbly rock overall but hides many solid placements, and climbs well. The P7 "mental crux" gear is not at all bad if you have some micros.
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Paisano Pinnacle West RidgePhoto: Ian Nicholson
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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