Needle and Spoon, Pywiack Dome 5.10a R-

  
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

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Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
Jul 2, 2013 - 03:02am
 
"There’s a bulge near the start of the pitch that is easiest to pass far to the right, where there is an old bolt."

The "old bolt" in the route description was most likely placed by Vern Clevenger and Kevin Leary when they started the line that eventually became "N&S". When Dennis Oakshotte and I went over to Pywiack, we already knew about the bolt being there and used it to protect the first couple of drill stances, but dispensed with it later. If you do use it, make sure you use a long runner to avoid rope drag.

Shoot me if I'm wrong, but I seem to recall that Randy Leavitt was involved in one of the attempts on this route (?)
nouveau

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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    Jul 1, 2013 - 12:33pm
On the second pitch, I found the "old bolt" to be out left (rather than right) after the first bolt.

I suspect you may have been on another climb. I just did this climb and found the bolt to be out to the right of where the pitch went.

Well protected for the hard sections but run out on the easier stuff up at the top.
July

Trad climber
San Francisco
Jun 18, 2012 - 01:33am
 
On the second pitch, I found the "old bolt" to be out left (rather than right) after the first bolt.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Pywiack Dome - Needle and Spoon 5.10a R- - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Needle Spoon is just left of the Dike route.
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.