Super Chicken, Medlicott Dome, Left 5.9

  
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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  (3.0)
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razmonster

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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    Sep 24, 2011 - 12:30pm
Nice route! It's a great handcrack that takes gear almost anywhere. The first half of the crack is significantly harder than the second half, so if you're getting pumped just keep going, it'll ease up. The upper half is very cruisy. I'd recommend doing a really short pitch to get to the bottom of the crack where there's a big blocky ledge for belaying and stacking rope. After climbing up on 4th class ledges a little left of the crack, go left of the blocky roof (5th class) and then back right to the start of the crack. Definitely trail a second rope for the rappel.
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Aug 13, 2007 - 12:59pm
 
This thing was great, a stellar handcrack. The route continues up from the bolted anchor on some lower angle knobs, but I think there's like no pro for a full ropelength... too bad (for me at least!) because it looks really fun!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Medlicott Dome, Left - Super Chicken 5.9 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.