Ciebolla, Medlicott Dome, Right 5.10b

  
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
  (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  (3.3)
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Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 33%  (1)
4 star: 33%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 33%  (1)
Ted Baker

climber
Aug 28, 2011 - 01:36pm
 
The final traverse seemed like quite a ways between bolts. 15-20 feet between the 2 traversing bolts to the anchors. Kind of inconsistent with how well most of the rest of the pitch is bolted.
Tyler Durden

Trad climber
Yosemite Sam, CA
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    Aug 10, 2011 - 04:43pm
There was nothing special about this route.

And it is the worst sandbag I have ever climbed. 10a first pitch? Give me a break. Get real.

We didn't even do the 2nd pitch because we figured it was more of the same BULLSH*T.
jhog

climber
south lake tahoe
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    Dec 1, 2007 - 11:15pm
90% of the moves are 5.10b I guess, I found it daunting just to follow. I was scared for my friend as he lead the hard to protect first pitch and some of his pieces popped out. The second sport pitch is a study in smear faith and sequence reading. After climbing this your footwork will be light years better. We finished on the route out to the right about 25'. This meant a scary horizontal traverse for the follower as the first couple of moves are faithy and falling would mean a pendulum swing across a near vertical slab. I have some great pictures I'll try to submit if I can figure out how.
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Jul 7, 2006 - 06:03pm
 
Two descriptions of P1 - Grease Fest and Sand Bag. Pick one.

Bring a micro nut to pro the starting move (we didn't have one). Otherwise a few aliens, and a few hands size pieces will get you up.
Sir Run-it-out

Trad climber
Northern California
Jul 19, 2004 - 06:16pm
 
There are rap slings on the 2nd last bolt before the anchors on P2 of the original route, so that you don't need to make the traverse on the tiny ledge at the end if you're scared.

Could not spot the new bolts/anchors that continue straight up from the ledge as are indicated in the topo.

You can make one rap to the ground from the anchor at the end of P2 with two 60m ropes.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Medlicott Dome, Right - Ciebolla 5.10b - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.