pcg
climber
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This route can be protected well on passive gear alone although I would take some cams if you plan on doing the 5.9 crack (which we didn't do). The area at the beginning where the topo says there is no pro can be protected well with a pink tricam in a horizontal upwards facing crack. At that point we moved up and to the left and a solid single bolt appeared on the polished granite just when we needed it. Being new to Tuolomne and granite, we took a double set of BD nuts, a single set of BD hexes, a few tricams, and #1 thru #4 Camalots. This was my son's first multi-pitch trad lead and he sewed up the route from the bottom of the 5.9 corner (we took the traverse and yes, rope drag was a bit of an issue) to the top with nuts, hexes, tricams, and a single cam (#2 Camalot). We used the smaller nuts, medium and large hexes, and a pink, red, blue, and a big green tricam. The big BD #11 hex is bomber in the top of the offwidth crack mentioned below.
I rated this four stars because we are new to climbing and used to chossy basalt and our first time on Tuolumne granite was like an outdoor climbing gym with solid jugs and holds seemingly wherever you needed them. What fun! Would have given it five stars except we aren't used to the polished stuff and when that appeared (short section on first pitch) it sketched us a bit as it was slippery and our shoes slid on it. The bolt was nice (aid) for that!
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Congrats pud, you have unlocked the definition of "may." :)
After waiting in line for an hour, I didn't find this route worth the wait. The 5.9 spot looked fun, but I didn't do it. Walkoff was kinda long also. I think we went down the water cracks and we found a cairn near a clump of trees, then some switch backs down to the road and around the base to the parking lot.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb
Did this route again in July. Really fun as usual and the best warm-up for TM in general. I've never seen any "anchor bolts" on this climb, or a need for them.
EDIT:
The walk-off is short. When you top out, head up then right a few hunded feet, then down the slab and to the parking lot
I'm guessing jewelaw took the hikers route East halfway around the dome. No need for that. The downclimb in front is 3rd class.
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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The 5.9 variation is a bit awkward but short, fun and well protected (with a few large cams). Look for a hand traverse to the right near the top of the crack system.
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Wrath
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Sunday July twenty fifth I took a party of three (including myself) up this route around half past ten in the morning. At the picnic tables we were all about the sunscreen, from the optional belay on it was on and off heavy rain with a few spats of hail.
Luckily we had no rain gear and got to ride the semi-epic.
Could of used a surfboard for the descent. Fearing a slide down we went long and missed the easy fourth class. At that moment we came to a soaking drop off and noticed a few slings on a tree & added a light D.
Our middle climber is new to the outdoor & took her time on the awkward 5.5 just past the tree belay. This with the monsoon put us back at the car sometime around four thirty.
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Bill Becher
Trad climber
Westlake Village, CA
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I've climbed this several times, a good way to introduce people to multipitch climbing. Notes:
Easiest start is just to the right of the tree on the first pitch, otherwise not much pro at first. (avoid section shown on topo as 5.0 no pro. Good looking bolt below the mantle ledge.
Be careful of the slippery trough as you go around the bend on the first pitch (shown on topo as "polished").
To avoid massive rope drag on the second pitch do a quick belay at the tree - shown as an optional belay spot on the topo.
When walking off follow the ledge about 100 ft? to a wide ledge then climb UP to the top of the slabs and THEN angle right to avoid a steep descent.
Bill
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Floyd, it looks like it will protect really well. I think the crack varies from 1-3 inches, but generally around 2 inches. I've been wanted to try that way too!
Go into the forum if you want to discuss it more, this is more of a beta area. I know we're talking beta, but discussions are better in the forum.
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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Is the 5.9 variation really that bad? I've done the original climb a few times, maybe I'll give the 5.9 a go. Does it protect well? Might be a fun way to spice up an otherwise mellow climb.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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A trip report is here http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=404636&msg=405202#msg405202
There is a pic too of the 5.9 variation.
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BrianRI
Trad climber
North Kingstown, RI
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DO NOT go by the red line in the photo. This is the 5.9 variation. I did the variation because it looked like the logical way up and remember thinking that this felt hard for a 5.6. The photo on Mountain Project is correct.
Brian
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luca
Trad climber
milano italy
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I did in august roped with my wife and ours two daughters roped together: their first route in this manner. unfortunetely we met two very very slow parties so, if you see people, come back. you can climb the route in the later afternoon with sun and no people.
any case a good start to the area climbs
luca
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ikellen
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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My partner and I had an interesting (but not bad) adventure on this route. We had a hard time finding the 3rd class ramp, and then got bad beta from a party who thought they were on the start of the beginners route but were actually on the 3rd class for our route. They told us the next ramp/slab east was the start. We scrambled up a ways on 3rd class ramps and slab, and then roped up for one mostly 4th class/5.2 or 5.3 pitch. I then led a pitch and followed a traversing ramp to an 8ft block with a slightly flaring fist/offwidth crack in it. Climbing the block was probably 5.8 and I was able to get in a #3 camalot down low, but the 5.8 move was well above that. A fall from there would be akward and you might smack the slab below.
From here I belayed just before the corner with the 5.9 crack and the 5.6 traverse. We picked up the route from here. It was hard to protect the traverse for the follower and avoid rope drag. I belayed at the optional belay at the tree. For those wondering, the tree is still there and very bomber. Fron there, the next pitch was relatively easy, but spiced up with an offwidth that looks intimidating, but is really a one move wonder. After that, its easy climbing on blocks. You can belay at a multitude of different ledges, but none of them offer great pro. I belayed on the medium ledge right before the 12' ledge in the supertopo, up on a small block that had small cracks. It may be possible to sling a large horn there. The last pitch is anywhere from 5.8 to 3rd class, depending on how you get up the top. The easiest way is to go way left on the 12' ledge and then up 3rd class blocks. One note: Pro is pretty scarce on this pitch. Once you get over the blocks, pro can be placed in various pods and overlaps, but from the belay through the blocks, its essentially free soloing. The big 12' ledge should catch you should you slip. I belaying from a wide overlap, and then we walked down the 3rd class descent.
An interesting variation, especially good for those confident on 3rd class up to easy 5th looking to pass parties on the first pitch.
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thedeuce
climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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This is a fun route, but beware of rope drag on the second pitch.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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There was a party on the first pitch when i tried this the other day. so, as a variation, i traversed about 80 feet left on 4th class ledge-slab and set a belay. then did a short pitch with a 5.7 mantel (protected 3.5" cam) to the belay ledge shown in the supertopo.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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BR
Trad climber
The LBC
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Yeah, the red line in the photo definitely follows the 5.9 variation ow/lieback on the second pitch. The 5.6 climb moves up and right from the end of the first pitch lieback, and connects a series of small ledges and stances. The variation is fun, if you're into that grunty, wide stuff, but it's definitely a LOT harder than the original route.
Once you get to the top of this climb, be sure to head for the high point of Lembert Dome. Sure, it's only a small dome next to the road, but the summit still counts!! (and there are some great views from up there).
br
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AA
climber
Boston
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We did this route on June 24th. I agree with the supertopo - a beautiful introduction to the area with spectactular views of Mt. Dana, Cathedral, and the meadows.
Just a general note about Tuolumne - the base of most climbs are at about 9000 feet or higher. Two pitches may not sound like much, but if you live at sea level, it is going to give your lungs a good workout for a first climb.
The picture shows the red route line going straight up after the layback. Careful - I can't be sure in the picture, but I believe the route actually cuts to the right, either across a small ledge, then up, or straight up to the right. The line shown may be the 5.9 crack indicated in the topo.
Also, when you reach the big ledge at the top of the route, keep walking straight across the ledge (away from the top of the route) and around to the left you will find the class 4 walk UP to the top of the dome. If you do not explore around the corner, it looks like a class 5 climb from the ledge. (We had roped up for a class 5 climb before we found the route around the corner).
Also, after you cross the top of the western dome (right after the class 4 walk up), keep going east to the top of the eastern peak to pick up the trail down. Don't go left (north) down the col - it becomes class 5 quickly.
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A fine route to introduce yourself to Tuolumne climbing.Photo: Greg Barnes
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
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