bschust
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Just got back from Tuolumne; a friend of mine pulled the fixed piton on the second pitch in the crux dihedral while taking a lead fall. He placed a green/purple C3 in the crack to protect the moves between the lower bolt and the bolt underneath the roof. Be aware when you climb, that piton no longer exists!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Last fall I replaced all bolts but one on the two 5.11 routes right of By Hook or By Crook.
Sausalito Archie's Overhang has 3 bolts and 1 fixed pin on the first pitch. The first bolt is on the overhang before the (very loose) roof jugs and is super hard to spot (it's slightly easier now than it was when it was a rusty 1/4" with Leeper, but still very hard to spot - that's why it wasn't in the guidebook). The 2 pro bolts on the last hard pitch are horizontal and 4 feet apart, and located horizontal from the belay. I replaced the first one but not the second, but there's a good crack another 3 feet left, and it's a clean fall in case the bolt blows.
Third World is much higher quality. First pitch has a fixed pin then bolt, a traverse to a second bolt, then a fairly important fixed pin that isn't super great (rock quality). You can get pro below it, but it's not great. The belay is on top of the pillar and is two bolts with rings (didn't want to see slings accumulate). There is one pro bolt near the top of the next pitch, and that's it on bolts. There was a two-piton belay that was totally bunk at the top of the second (pulled one with fingers, dug the other one out of the dirt). Good pro is available, and the crack is a bit larger than it was when the pins were placed, so that fixed anchor has been removed (not that anyone would have dared rap off of it). Some very loose, very large blocks on the top pitch.
Anyway, some more options for those climbing at the grade.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Getting to the first bolt is 5.11, and the pro is hollow (the continuation of the broken block). Stick-clipping the bolt is a good idea. A very short stick (2 foot) can be used while standing on the good hold before the bolt.
The piton just above the crux roof on the 2nd pitch fell out, but there is good thin pro, and the horizontal just under the roof (to the right) takes bomber cams.
There is one piton about 2/3 of the way up the 3rd pitch. Also, for the 3rd pitch, a double set of finger-hand size cams is a better recommendation than a single set.
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