Hogwash, Daff Dome, South Flank 5.10c R

  
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

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Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Apr 24, 2005 - 06:18pm
 
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/tuolumne.htm

"1 in 1 out - route complete[ly replaced] ('one old bolt FELL out when I clipped in the funkness but before I jerked!! This protected a fairly run 10c section.') All funky aluminum hangers replaced, too."

...but it being April and all, I haven't verified this personally.
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
Apr 24, 2005 - 12:54am
 
The so-called two bolt rap station on Hogwash is not a rap station at all. On the first ascent I blew the bolt placement and Dennis Oakshot went up a placed a second bolt next to my bad bolt and led on and placed a 5th bolt above. Why haven't these all been replaced with 3/8" by now?
Ray

climber
Templeton, CA
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    Aug 17, 2004 - 11:58am
The topo for this route is not very accurate. The fourth bolt is actually a two bolt rap station, so you can rap the route with one rope. The topo notes a .10c section down low, between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, but the real crux is between the 5th and 6th bolts (counting the rap anchor as the 4th bolt), and is definitely more difficult than anything down low on the route. There is also an 8th bolt up and slightly to the left; this leads to slightly easier, but still.10bish, climbing, as opposed to going directly up and over the smooth bulge after the 7th bolt. It also diminishes the runout nature of the climb, making it a reasonable lead. It was my first on sight lead >5.9, so I was very happy to discover that 8th bolt!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Daff Dome, South Flank - Hogwash 5.10c R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The South Flank routes are located in the tree-filled area in the center of the photo.
Photo: Greg Barnes
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.