Sand Felipe, Whiskey Peak 5.10a

  
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Red Rocks, Nevada USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
  (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
  (3.0)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
5 Total Ratings
5 star: 20%  (1)
4 star: 20%  (1)
3 star: 20%  (1)
2 star: 20%  (1)
1 star: 20%  (1)
TheHip

Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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    Nov 24, 2004 - 12:18am
well-bolted is an understatement! I'm a pretty cautious climber and was skipping bolts because I didn't feel like clipping twice from the same stance.
bones

Trad climber
San Diego
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    Mar 10, 2004 - 04:04pm
This thing is a joke since being retrobolted. You'll spend more time clipping bolts than climbing rock. Seriously, it's a bolt ladder and would still be perfectly safe and not runout at all if every other bolt after the second bolt was chopped. Someone should really fix this mess.
Matt M

Trad climber
Alamo City
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    Oct 28, 2003 - 05:39pm
Yep - lot of bolts on this one now. Two ropes to get down from the chains. Good route though.
HandCrack

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal.
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    Oct 10, 2003 - 05:29pm
The current state of affairs as of Oct. 9, '03:

There are 16 bolts to the first anchor (two bolts, slings and rings). Then there are three more bolts to a chain anchor. Thus if you clipped one bolt at the lower anchor you'd need 20 draws plus something for the top anchor. Set up as is, you can descend with one short rap and one long one with a single 60 meter rope.

It seems a bit odd, this sport climb amidst all these trad routes. The bolts didn't bother me, I clipped'em all. The climbing was great sustained edging up a beautiful varnished face.
HandCrack

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal.
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    Oct 10, 2003 - 05:27pm
The current state of affairs as of Oct. 9, '03:

There are 16 bolts to the first anchor (two bolts, slings and rings). Then there are three more bolts to a chain anchor. Thus if you clipped one bolt at the lower anchor you'd need 20 draws plus something for the top anchor. Set up as is, you can descend with one short rap and one long one with a single 60 meter rope.

It seems a bit odd, this sport climb amidst all these trad routes. The bolts didn't bother me, I clipped'em all. The climbing was great sustained edging up a beautiful varnished face.
HandCrack

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal.
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    Oct 10, 2003 - 05:27pm
The current state of affairs as of Oct. 9, '03:

There are 16 bolts to the first anchor (two bolts, slings and rings). Then there are three more bolts to a chain anchor. Thus if you clipped one bolt at the lower anchor you'd need 20 draws plus something for the top anchor. Set up as is, you can descend with one short rap and one long one with a single 60 meter rope.

It seems a bit odd, this sport climb amidst all these trad routes. The bolts didn't bother me, I clipped'em all. The climbing was great sustained edging up a beautiful varnished face.
Greg Barnes

climber
Oct 5, 2003 - 09:49pm
 
Anyone been on this route this fall, and know if the added bolts are still there?

Greg
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
Phantom Fugitive

Social climber
Misery
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    Feb 22, 2003 - 10:05am
that's too bad.
I climbed it a couple years ago with the 9 bolts. It was a memorable climb and had great character. Sounds like someone didn't like it's great character.

PF
BCD

Trad climber
Misery
Feb 14, 2003 - 12:54pm
 
Yup,
Looks like this route has been SERIOUSLY retro-bolted. The guidebook lists 9 bolts, Supertopo lists 10, I counted 16 to the first anchor, and it looked like the route kept going....
At one point I was able to clip TWO bolts from the same stance (with a long reach).
I'm not sure what the ethics are in Red Rocks, but I wouldn't be surprised if someone chops those bolts in the near future.
Archie and Deb

Intermediate climber
Misery
Nov 4, 2002 - 08:00pm
 
Nice face climb on varnish.
Note that your topo is apparently out of date. There are now 18 bolts on the pitch. It appears that new bolts have been placed between the first 8 shown on the topo. Now a very secure lead (if you brought enough draws)!
Whiskey Peak - Sand Felipe 5.10a - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
Located in Black Velvet Canyon, Whiskey Peak Wall is packed full of amazing climbs.
Photo: Greg Barnes
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.