Chicken Eruptus, Ragged Edges Wall 5.10b

  
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Red Rocks, Nevada USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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  (4.0)
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2 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 100%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
Oct 21, 2009 - 05:58pm
 
That Bachar route- Sheep Trail, is about 40' right of Chicken, and yeah, its pretty spicy at .10a (and originally rated 5.8!). I got good gear in the whole way, but had to work for it more than I did on Chicken.
ionlyski

Trad climber
Polebridge, Montana
Oct 19, 2009 - 09:55am
 
Don't remember anything too difficult in finding pro. Route has a few moves you need to do or you'll take a little fall, which is why people like it maybe.

For real excitement though, try the Bachar route a bit left of Chicken. Be ready. You're going to climb at least 40 feet before you find any pro.

Arne
vegastradguy

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
Oct 18, 2009 - 01:43am
 
imho, the gear on this route is BOMBER, but not immediately obvious, especially the piece that guards the start of the crux section.

this is definitely not a beginner's .10 as you are doing moves well above gear, but not dangerously so.

also imho, this is probably the best route on the cliff!

(for the more enthusiastic, instead of going to the top, stop at the horizontal break about 15' above the last bolt and head right to a stance and build an anchor, then lower, setting up a top rope on the test piece Aikido Gun Boy, .11d!)
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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    May 11, 2006 - 12:37am
All I kept thinking was....boy, I'm glad I didn't try to lead this. Great climbing for the second, but for the leader (I suspect and heard from my partner) that the gear is a bit hard to find and questionable. Route was great fun, but make sure you know what you're doing before jumping on. Be a solid .10 leader and experienced with placing pro before setting off.

Then.......enjoy!

-Susan
Matt M

Trad climber
Alamo City
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    Oct 28, 2003 - 05:45pm
Cool, spicy climbing on small varnish edges make this climb a stark contrast to the incut chicken heads and flakes found elsewhere - Be solid at placing small pro because there are runouts (not Tuolumne or Squamish Apron style). Be prepared for "Hey! Look kids! A climber!" calls as this cliff is near a popular trail - It's great climbing though so don't miss it.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Ragged Edges Wall - Chicken Eruptus 5.10b - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
The Ragged Edges area in Willow Spring is the most accessible crag in the main canyons at Red Rocks.
Photo: Sarah Felchlin
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.