TIM SHEA
Trad climber
FORT LAUDERDALE, FLA
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A Must do climb. The layback on the first pitch is the way to go. I liked the face climbing on the second pitch a lot. A perfect afternoon climb.
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outdooreric
Trad climber
Mammoth
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The route is only four stars if you climb the original first pitch in the dihedral, not the runout face. It's easier than 5.9 (more like 5.8-), takes excellent pro and is the obvious feature to climb. Take the standard rack listed and you'll be fine. The runout face variation seems to be a poorly protected, contrived line that shouldn't be included in any book. Climb the second pitch as shown in the supertopo with an optional 5" piece for the crux lieback section (more comitting than the 5.8 slab move).
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Great route. I recommend taking a pair of fatty cams. My #4 camalot walked too easy and scared the crap out of me, but my #5 tech friend had strong enough springs to stay put in a couple key super parallel spots.
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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One of the fabulous three 2 pitch 5.8 climbs in Red Rocks, The Great Red Book, like Ragged Edges and Lotta Balls, is home to some unique and adventurous climbing.
The top is bolted now, and the second pitch now is home to three new bolts where there used to be none, somewhat diminishing the adventurous nature of the route.
The climbing, however, is good and exiting the first belay is still pretty spicy.
Have fun!
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