nipun
Sport climber
lucknow,up
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i am very excited to take knowledge climbing route and soon i will grasp it with my hard work
citylink Gold
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Sabirila
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Superb route. P2 is more awkward than it looks and also quite long. I doubled up on #1, #.75 and #.5 and ended up using almost all of it in P2. P4 is also quite long and can use a lot of gear. Even though it has a wide section, the wall is quite featured so one does not need to be OW climbing expert at all. Crux at the end of P4 is delicate and requires finesse (and you are tired too at that point), but it is fun. From P5 up to P7 the climbing eases quite a bit. I could not finish remaining 3 pitches (4th class and two 5.9s) unfortunately since there was a slower party ahead. The remaining pitches look like a lot of fun. In short, the route is excellent and well worthy the time.
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Colin Little
climber
San Francisco, CA
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We only did the first five pitches as it was getting very cold and very windy. Once the snow started falling we decided to bail. It was a great route though. We're going to have to come back and finish it off.
The approach was pretty easy, but we made the mistake of leaving the creek bed too early. Wait until you are pretty much even with the climb before heading up. There are earlier climber's trails that lead up, but several of them seem to lead to other areas of the cliff and require some bushwacking to get to the base of Dream.
Coords for the base:
N 36 02'06.6"
W 115 27'55.8"
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Photos of pitches 1 - 7 in this general RR trip report: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=613224&msg=613224#msg613224
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clustiere
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Great route have done it untill pitch 6 and to the top and let me tell you that the top is worth it as the climbing and scrambling is fun. Yo put up some photos, eh.
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TheHip
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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yummy. Climbed this on the 7th day of a week long trip.....my feet were soooo sore by this point
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Great route, absolutely outstanding.
Well worth going to the top on, and thanks to the ASCA, the bolts are all new (with the exception of the last two) so you can rappel safely from near the top of the climb.
Watch your raps on this one. If rappelling, make sure to be aware that the crack on the 4th pitch is a rope eater and set your raps accordingly.
Also, as of Oct, 2004 the slings @ Turkeyland are new. The bolts are okay. One is somewhat new, the other is an old 'double-clip' Urioste bolt.
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dmitry
Trad climber
the evil empire
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A world class climb!
Pitch 2 will seem longer than it actually is: very stimulating.
Do not overprotect the easier sections of pitch 4: that would tax the leader on the 5.10 slab exit. Your second will not apperciate the pitch 4 anchor being five feet directly left of the crux moves (not a very thoughtful belay location).
Pitches 5 and 6 combine with a 60 m rope.
Cheers!
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Doug Hemken
climber
Madison, WI
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We did this route last week, to the summit of Velvet Peak.
I can't believe more people don't do the four pitches from the Velvet Throne up to Turkeyland! Even the fourth class pitch was pretty rock (for it's grade).
I'm a little surprised that SuperTopo doesn't include the 12th pitch (or I guess it would be the 11th according to ST). If you are going to stop short of the summit, then Turkeyland is the logical place to turn back. This is where the bolted belay/rap stations end, and the climbing on the 12th pitch is consistent in character with the previous pitches, albeit 5.6-5.7. *This* is the top of the Velvet Wall, and that is clearly how the Uriostes thought of it, based both on the bolt evidence and the Red Guide.
The 6 pitches beyond Turkeyland are fun, too, in a mountaineering sort of way (reminded me of arete climbing in the Sierra). Mostly easy 5th class, with an occasional harder move here or there. We ended up getting 18 pitches out of the day, and feeling very satisfied. The descent is then the same as for Epinephrine. I think it is Peter Croft who says "Summits count!"
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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ponchovilla
Advanced climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Recommend the Yellow Brick Road (straight-up) variation and don't be a pussy and rap off - climb the whole route. You want shorter climbs go swap semen with the sport fags at the base of the Gallery.
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prodigal tradster
Advanced climber
Mill Valley, CA
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The route speaks for itself. Unbelievably good climbing. The 9th pitch is one of the best on the route and I think it's a shame that it was left out of the Swain guide. If you have 60-meter ropes you can combine the 8th pitch (4th class) with the 9th pitch.
Just a note on the topo -- the last pitch seems to be missing. From the point where the Swain guide tells everyone to rappel off (i.e., where Prince of Darkness ends), I remember there being four additional pitches (including the short 4th class pitch). The last pitch (which leads up to the Turkeyland belay ledge) is probably about 5.6 or 5.7 and climbs up a face on mostly huge holds with a vertical crack and one old Urioste bolt for pro. The anchor at the top of this pitch does leave something to be desired -- one bolt looks relatively new (but I'm no expert) while the other is this really neat Urioste bolt with two clip-in points. When I last climbed this route there were some slings and rap rings on this anchor, but some of the webbing was looking a little iffy. The last pitch is certainly worth doing, if for no other reason than getting up to Turkeyland. Just be careful pulling your ropes on the rappel -- they can get stuck in the crack or on the huge holds!
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Over 1000 feet of amazing climbing on Black Velvet Wall.Photo: Greg Barnes
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
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