ncw1911
Gym climber
Roseville, CA
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To see how to avoid the "beached whale" at the end of the second pitch, check out this YouTube video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdupR-sTsLA
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The fake McCoy from nevernever land.
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awesome route, did this the 29th of last month with a buddy of mine. 2nd pitch was pretty amazing as all say, but due to the increased exposure 3rd pitch was perhaps even more enjoyable. unfortunately my buddy was unable to retrieve a #3 bd c4 camalot from our anchor in at the top of p2 archor spot ledge ( in the floor of the ledge right before start of p3 chimney ).i encouraged him to post his "fixed" piece here on the off chance someone was willing to return. he didn't, so i figured i would, just in case there is a kind soul out there, please message me and i can pass on to him.
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Roald85
Trad climber
Los Gatos,CA
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Cool route, just climbed it this weekend. The second pitch is the classic pitch. I heard a lot of people saying you lose contact with the leader on the last pitch. If the follower leans out and looks up you can see the the top and the leader if they are looking over the edge. No reason to split this pitch into two due to lack of communication. You do get a little drag on that last pitch though, so place gear nicely, I had to remove a couple pieces to reduce drag. A must do though. It was an overall enjoyable day.
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nate2655
Trad climber
gardnerville, nevada
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lost a purple TCU on the first pitch if you get it out and feel up to giving it back email me
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Simmeron
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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I agree, the best 5.7 I've done anywhere. The only other 5.7 that might come close is Surrealistic Pillar.
And thanks for getting that old #2 out Evdawg. Setting up an anchor at that third belay is much easier.
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Amicus
Ice climber
Bernal Flats, CA
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Great climb. Hands down the most exciting 5.7s I've climbed anywhere. We finally did this as a team of three on double ropes in mid-august. Plenty of room at the belays for 3.
Photo below is of the beginning of the second pitch.
[Click to View Linked Image]
More images of Corrugation Corner and the link up with Surrealistic Pillar
Bring extra water if you're moving slow because it gets hot in the afternoon sun.
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maestro8
Trad climber
San Hoser, CA
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I found a bail anchor about 1/2 way up the 1st pitch... a slung piton backed up with a nut, plus a quicklink. Looked pretty new...
There's no need to "bellyflop" onto the ledge at the top of P2. Using the lip of the ledge as a hand rail, traverse in low, using a seam below the ledge for feet. Once beneath the ledge, you can do a smooth and easy mantle to get up and onto it. It's much easier than the "beached whale" maneuver, and you get bonus style points in the process :)
A couple variations:
Skip the P2 ledge / chimney altogether and continue up the corner until you re-join the route after the P3 dike traverse. 5.9
The "Corrugation Buttress" variation: Instead of following the P2 arete to the ledge below the chimney, climb up and left across a gulley, through some large blocks / flakes, onto another ledge, almost even with the chimney ledge. You'll be about 20 feet up the 3rd pitch of Traveler Buttress at this point. 5.8
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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did this one last sunday, 4/14/08
the route was dry and climbable but the decent was still all snow...
it's pretty good, and the highlights are definately the aret and getting onto the ledge..
we unfortunately lost the nut tool and had to leave a BD nut and a Walnut on the first and second pitch, and also a red .75 RE cam towards the top of the 3rd pitch..
if anyone comes accross these, i'd love to see them back!
[Click to View Linked Image]
ps: i got rid of that old #2 below the chimney
[Click to View Linked Image]
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Taylor Jaime
Trad climber
south lake tahoe
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Climbed this route today and it was my 2nd time ever climbing before(1st time I did Bear's Reach on the East Wall). I was following an experienced leader.
P1:The first pitch was the easiest of the three. Great dike holds for the hands and feet, but it can be difficult in some spots where you cant figure out where to grab. Overall it is really quite easy.
P2:The second pitch starts off much like the first until you have to step out to the left onto the arete. There were plenty of hand and foot holds but the exposure can be a little overwhelming.
I finished off the second pitch with a belly flop move onto the belay ledge(not difficult).
P3: My leader and I actually broke the long 180' pitch into two parts so that the wind wouldn't interfere with our communication.
-P3a. The chimney started off kind of frustrating as you try to wedge yourself into the crack upward, but the chimney is not very big(maybe 10 ft) and once you get up a little bit it becomes very easy. A backpack makes the chimney more difficult but not at all unmanageable. Once out of the chimney there comes the ledge crux.
Just stem out and once you reach the other side theres plenty of holds to reach the ledge.
-P3b. Normally the leader would keep ascending at this point up the dikes,but b/c of the wind noise and the bad view the leader has of the follower, my leader chose to anchor directly above the ledge crux and belay me from the ledge. This allowed for the leader to see me and speak to me as i did the crux. After reaching the ledge the last part of the third pitch is fun fun fun dike climbing to the top.
Conclusion: Really fun and challenging route. Highly Recommended!!!
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jpdreamer
Trad climber
San Carlos, CA
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Great position and cool rock, but the moves are a bit repetitive.
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Chugar
Trad climber
Mariposa, CA
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Great climb. I'd only add that on P2, after the arete crux, you get to the place where the book says to go left and do the "beached whale" technique (just before the chimney). If you feel uncomfortable doing that move, you can climb two feet higher where you will then see a bomber placement for a medium nut that will protect the beached whale. Save the whale! ;)
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gooth
climber
San Francisco
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Did this route on 10/1/2006. My partner accidentally left a nut on pitch #2, about 1/3 of the way up (it slid deeper into the crack as he was cleaning it but should be rattling around). If anybody picks this piece up, I'd love to see it again! I can ID it if necessary.
Take anything you hear about this route being "scary" or "runout" with a grain of salt! It's definitely a great climb. Although the exposure can be either exhilarating or scary (depending on your personality), I thought there were ample opportunities to get good pro with a reasonable selection of gear (i.e. no micro-nuts or anything crazy). In fact, one of the parties ahead of us with a beginning leader was able to get peices in every 4-6 feet!
Anytime the climbing feels harder than 5.7 just look around ---
you'll find something, a dike, incut hold, etc.. and the climbing goes very nicely if you use the two corners to stem.
Won't add too much to the beta, but here's something I thought nobody's posted yet. After negotiating the short chimney that starts off pitch 2, make your way to the traverse. I think the key is to stay low here; there is a system of several dikes that angles down towards crack on the other side of the traverse. You can use one for your hands and another for your feet. If you go too high, you might be standing on the handholds with nothing for your feet!
Protect this traverse well for an inexperienced follower. I did the following: clip the manky bent piton (I also had a small nut in a seam behind it for backup) and then make your way through the traverse. If you can, place your next piece as high up in the crack as you can stomach (so as to cut rope-drag and, more importantly, reduce the risk for a big pendulum into the corner for your 2nd). Alternatively, use double ropes! The party ahead of us did and the traverse looked super-protected for the 2nd. He used one rope to protect the traverse and crack, then placed another piece of pro higher up for the other rope that gave a nice top-rope for his follower.
The last part of the pitch is just gravy -- lots of dikes make the end of the pitch very enjoyable and there is plenty of pro if you want it. If you can, go all the way to the top if you have a 60m rope. If you've protected the traverse well, rope drag will hopefully not be an issue. Also, make sure your 2nd is positioned as close to the start of the pitch as possible and not using too much rope (we had about 2ft. of rope left).
Since communication can be difficult (long pitch that takes you out of view of your 2nd, wind, etc..) make sure you have a system of rope-tugs worked out so that you're belayer knows when he's on/off belay, etc..
Have fun! A great route and highly recommended!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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I did the 5.8 finish to pass a slow party last week, and it is some quality climbing in it's own right. Definitely recommended, especially if you've done it the regular way before.
After the chimney on p3, you step out onto the face, clip the pin, make one face move up and into the crack. It's some fun crack moves, some jams, up to the large dikes. YOu pull over the corner and onto travellers. YOu can belay from the good ledge, or what we did, you can make it to the top w/ a 60.
Ups the difficulty a bit, and it runs vertically, so no rope drag issues.
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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Great route, if you do bring a back pack up the route, when you get to the chimney just attach it to the belay loop on your harness with a shoulder sling and drag it up below your self, no choice words needed.
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The Jackal
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Live in South Lake just haven't done the route since I was 17. Now 26 it's just as awesome as I remember. My buddy Aaron and I linked up Surrealistic Pillar which made for a sick day. Great exposure!!!! You will use every move in your bag of tricks. (stemming, crack climbing, lieback, smears ect....)
Only 5.7 but doesn't feal anything like it. The only beta I would have is if anybody is wanting to bring a backpack, don't. It makes the chimmney section on the 3rd pitch a pain in the ass. It's not that it doesn't work you just might have a few choice words on the way up. It's definitely one of the best climbs in Tahoe if not one the best 5.7s anywhere.
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Climbed this on Wed Sep 28, and I think we were the only party on the route all day. Perfect weather.
Lots o' beta below, more than anyone should need, so skip it if you want to maintain a sense of adventure.
First pitch is straightforward and fun, although not dead easy - some good Leap high steps and stemming.
Second pitch is about as good as it gets. The crack leading up to the flake traverse is easy and protects well, and before starting up the arete I plugged in a pretty good green Alien. I also found plenty of gear out on the arete - a 1" cam, a .75", and several nut placements - so I wasn't worried about the mankiness of the pitons. Two 3" cams definitely seems like overkill, but I think it would be worthwhile to take two 2" and three 1" cams. Reason is that the best piece of gear prior to the traverse was a 1", then there is a great 1" placement a little way up the arete. And you still want one more 1" for the belay, along with a 2" and a .75". A 3.5" cam seems like unnecessary weight.
More pitch 2 beta....it is quite runout (25'?), though easy, from the end of a small crack on the arete to the finish. Look for good small-med nut placements prior to this runout. The finish protects great with a 3" cam. If you want to avoid belly-flopping, swing your feet out onto the left face below the ledge - there are some footholds - and mantle with authority. The ledge itself is slick from foot and water polish.
We got off in one looong third pitch - probably 180'. I followed and couldn't stop smiling the whole time - great rock, awesome view, fun easy climbing. The chimney is pretty trivial if you get started correctly, and a 3" cam at the top protects the follower. We put a double-length sling and a Revolver biner on that piece to limit the rope drag. The piton after the chimney isn't in great shape, but the traverse is pretty easy - one thoughtful move, then the rest are no problem. If the leader heads up the crack for a while prior to putting in another piece of gear, that will offer better protection for the follower.
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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We climbed this route on Sunday Sept 25th, topped out by 1pm. We lost a #1 camalot, I think it fell off of a harness after we topped out and possibly on the way down, if you found it I would appreciate the courtesy of having my cam returned. I can ID the tape color, if the tape was still on, their also may be laser engraved initials on the lobes, but I can not recall if I engraved that cam or not.
Please email me at tradisrad@hotmail.com.
Thanks
Rob
I am happy to report that my lost Camalot has been returned. Thanks To Tim C. I recieved an email this week (1/4/06) from Tim, who had found my cam just after it was lost, a few months later he found this post and returned my cam to me. It worked out well as he lives close to me. Thank Tim.
-Rob
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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The piton right after the chimney can be backed by placing a nut in the crack just above the piton.
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bgreenlee
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Did the route for the third time just yesterday (weather was perfect). The piton right after the chimney was looking pretty manky. Any chance of replacing it with a bolt? What's the bolting policy at the Leap?
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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This was my first real 5.7 lead. We climbed Deception, Harvey Wallbangers Right, and Pop Bottle the day before.
I led pitches 1 and 3 on 7/23. Pitch 1 was very straighforward. I had a camelback on and it caused me problems in the chimney at the start of pitch 3. I placed a zero cam at the top of the chimney in the horizontal crack, which gave me the courage to move out onto the traverse. I clipped the piton on the face to help my partner, then the rest of the pitch was straightforward.
I was glad my partner led pitch 2, because it looked hard to protect when you moved out onto the arrete and rather scary as a result.
No rocks but a nalgene bottle was dropped by another party. I thought it was a rock and bellowed ROCK, ROCK, ROCK!
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Fields
Trad climber
CA
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Rockfall on this route Yesterday.
Bowling ball sizes.
Couple of nice people on Traveler's Buttress informed us as we were roping up. (we just missed it)
Maybe the heat?
So we passed on the route.
Be careful the next few days.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Cool route! Love that second pitch!!!!!
Shot of the route line from Main Ledge...
[Click to View Linked Image]
And a shot down at my wife coming up the steep second pitch...
[Click to View Linked Image]
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Jake
Trad climber
Dublin, CA
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This climb definitely deserves five stars.
Pitch 1 is a wake up call. If your head wasn't in it while racking up, it sure will be by the time you're building an anchor.
Pitch 2 is wild and airy. Moving out toward the arete is something you'll remember forever. If possible, back up the rusty pins and pitons with gear. Be cool and try not to belly flop onto the belay ledge, although this technique is a perfectly viable option.
Pitch 3 starts with a chimney (that can easily be climbed with a backpack) then traverses climber's right towards the corner. Traverse low to avoid the frightening "look ma, no hands" technique. The leader should run out the corner after the traverse as much as comfortably possible and place gear with a long sling for the following two reasons. (1) A fall from the follower on the traverse will result in a nasty pendulum into the corner. (2) You'll need all the rope you can get. It's a long pitch, so less zig zag, more up. You'll also reduce rope drag.
Oh yeah, ENJOY!
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whatsupdoc
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Awesome climb, just amazing with the unique rock and tremendous exposure.
P1 is fun and easy rests on the horizontal dikes are never more than 1 move away. It eats nuts.
P2 is just classic. Great exposure. Scary traverse to the arete but the arete was very cool and not too difficult to protect.
P3 has a somewhat scary traverse to a corner right after the chimney, due to the difficulty of getting bomber pro and the need to watch rope drag for the rest of the pitch. The pin looked terrible but I clipped a #3 RP that was "fixed" there. My partner mistakingly removed it afterwards. Avoid pro in the chimney or you're looking at tremendous rope drag. Dike hiking to the top after one or two moves in the corner.
We didn't use the #3.5 camalot that was recommended. I don't think you need 2 #3's either. One should do. Definitely bring a few extra nuts as this climb just sucks 'em up. Have fun.
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TIM SHEA
Trad climber
FORT LAUDERDALE, FLA
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Because of the unique "corragation" on the P2 arete this is fasinating climb. When I was standing below this after the flake traverse all I could say is "WOW" how cool.
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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It is a very nice climb. I've climbed at the Leap now and then for the past ten years and believe it or not, last week was the first time I climbed Corrugation Corner. I've climbed Traveler Buttress a half dozen times but I must now admit that I think Corrugation Corner is actually a better route up Main Wall than TB. Strolling up Surrealistic Pillar first lets you hike dikes instead of talus most of the way to the base of the route.
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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What a great climb, I got to lead the second and third pitches. The second pitch is steep and awesome. While it is exposed, there is good protection on this pitch. I had to beach my self to get to the belay ledge. The third pitch was also exciting at the traverse, the crappy old piton can be backed up by placing a bomber nut right above it, then the down sloping dikes lead to good pro and a fun romp to the top. I will go back to this climb. I used only one #3 and one 3.5 Camalot on the route it took lots of small to medium pro.
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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One of my favorite climbs anywhere. A couple of times I've climbed it, different friends who were beginning leaders took the first pitch. That seems like a great pitch for that. I suspect many beginning leaders might not appreciate getting the second pitch.
If you're wondering whether to take your single or double ropes, P3 protects better for the follower with doubles.
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ttoshi
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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The first pitch was the first sustained 5.6 lead for my wife, and it gave her plenty of excitement. I led the second and third pitches. The scariest part for me was going across the flakes to the exposed arete on p2. There are some holds that will probably blow anytime soon, so go gingerly. On pitch 3, the chimney is wide enough so I didn't have to remove my small pack. After clipping the piton after the chimney, beware of some bad rope drag unless you back clean after you place pro in the corner after the traverse. Committing to the traverse was the worst part. I wasn't bad once you get on it.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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Nathan Lunstrum
Trad climber
South Bend, IN
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A fun 5.8 variation to the 3rd pitch is to climb the crack that starts right above the chimney.(don't traverse right back to corner). Mostly jams, some great finger locks, and laybacks. There's enough dikes on the face for you feet to make it reasonable. The pro gets better the higher you go. You can hook up with the belay for the regular pitch or move left out on to the face, and find some stances there(not always good pro though). A short pitch of dike hiking gets you to the top.
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Juggler
Trad climber
Earth
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1st pitch: Don't underestimate this pitch. Beta says it is the easiest pitch of the climb, which it may be, but it was sustained with a number of memorable moves. It is well protected, though.
2nd pitch: Sustained 5.7 except for the very top. Use the pitons on the arete for protection as there is little else. About six feet after the first piton on the arete there is a perfect spot for a .2 micro camalot. Enjoy the exposure.
3rd pitch: Beware the 5.7 traverse. Go low to give more hand holds. I went high and there was nothing for the hands. For three moves I felt that I could have just as easily fallen off as stayed on. The low angle dike hiking at the end had some memorable moments, but there are dozens of ways to go and some are more difficult than others. We cleaned a #7 Wild Country stopper too difficult to be removed with hands but came out easily with a nut tool.
A memorable highlight: Glistening in the sun for much of the first two pitches, thousands of rainbow threads filled the air -these were tiny baby spiders traveling on strands of web.
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beth
Novice climber
Earth
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I really enjoyed this climb, especially the exposed arete on the second pitch and the fun crazy dike-hiking/hand-foot matching on the last pitch!
Just so you know, though, the topo's mention of 80' for the last pitch seemed wrong for Corrugation Corner (perhaps it's meant for the last pitch of Traveler Buttress?) It was more like 180' for us, and I was glad we had our 60m rope.
My other advice would be for 5.7 move right after the chimney: I stayed low, hand-traversing on the ledge, and using a vertical crack for my right foot. It was pretty solid with my foot stemmed into that crack, and it felt better than trying to get high and use the ledge for my feet (although I of course didn't do it that way in the end, so it may be fine that way too.) Have fun!
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Jason
Novice climber
Earth
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This was my first 5.7 lead some years ago. Since then I've done all the classics up to 5.9 and most of the 10s, twice. And I think the Corner is the best climb at the leap.
Some beta: You can use the sport climbing anchors to the right as a rap station in case there's too much traffic or you need to bail (~30' 5.4 downclimb).
And if you're up for an extra 5.8 starter pitch, do the original 1st pitch of Travelers to gain Main ledge.
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Sam
Novice climber
Earth
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Lovers is rad right now. A little more windy than usual. but still way warm enough to climb happily in. Did Hospital Corner last weekend, awsome climb. Highly recommend it.
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The the longest 5.7 at Lover's Leap.Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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