caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Thanks for the beta Chris. I don't know anyone who has done this route, except for buchanan. I think that route to the right is Up From The Skies, didn't know it had an anchor half way up. Could you rap to that anchor from the Blue Cab anchor, and thus descend with one rope and two raps?
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Blue Cab is that 5.9 just right of Corrugation Corner (actually just right of the 5.11 sport route), and the pro recommendation is simply:
cams 2 ea .5-2"
However, the route is definitely 5.9 R without at least a single set of RPs - preferably, a double set of micro nuts. Even with micro nuts it might deserve an R.
Also, key beta for the rap: it's 115' if you stay left, but 125' if you swing right.
And also, there is a 2-bolt anchor in the middle of the face about 80' up (one cold shut, one regular Metolius hanger). This appears to be a retrobolt of the 5.9 R face route with the single 1/4" bolt about 25' up, 15' right of Blue Cab.
Some beta for the first pitch of North Face - the one-old-bolt, one-old-pin anchor is way left and only 6 feet from the anchor for Blue Cab (in other words, the Blue Cab anchor is so close that it's basically just a replacement of the original anchor, but in a better location for modern bolts - on the wall above instead of on the horizontal ledge). North Face first pitch is excellent but has super-thin (breakable thin) dikes in spots. A 5.7 leader would want at least triples in 1.5-2" cams, my recommended rack might be three 1.5" cams, four 2" cams, one 3" cam, one 3.5" cam (nuts, single cams below 1.5").
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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