Mel-NER
Trad climber
California
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(I will stop posting about this climb I promise)
Climbed deception (5.6 version) again today and good news! Its still awesome!!! Just a few points on climbing it in 2 instead of 3 pitches and a bit of beta on avoiding being deceived by the route. I led the entirety of the route today in two pitches with a 60m rope. At the top of each pitch there was about 10-20ft slack to take up before hitting my second. I set the first belay station at the fixed cam (purple BD) on the little ledge. I spoke to several groups today that planned on doing the climb so I thought I would mention, that the short traverse to this belay station is NOT the ominous traverse about 40ft above this point. After talking to a couple people that have gotten off route on this climb, it seems this is one point where it happens. (for the 5.6) follow the dihedral to the mantle to the crack system left of the dihedral and skirt the left side of the flake. Above the flake there are two cracks that diagonally move left upward, follow these cracks to a slot/crack system and move up until you can do the one-move traverse right to the belay station (You will see the obvious right foot on the rounded knob). From this belay station move up the crack system util it becomes devoid of gear placements just bellow a tiny roof. Look right and you will see the dikes that move across to the opposite dihedral, and lay back to the ledge. I set the second belay station at the tree at the top. If you do this climb do yourself a favor and climb it in 2 pitches.
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Mel-NER
Trad climber
California
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As far as the fixed piece on the direct route is concerned: I climbed the 5.6 but looked for it several times on the direct route, just to try and spot it but I couldn't find it. But that doesn't mean it isn't there.
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Mel-NER
Trad climber
California
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I posted a much more detailed description in the trip reports section, wanted to note here that the bd cam is still stuck between the first and second belay stations, also a nut is buried just below the traverse back to the crack just about 20ft below the second belay station. The second pitch from about halfway up to the belay station was the blankest section of the climb as far as gear placements are concerned, but they are there. Was able to place a couple offset cams and a couple offset dmm nuts, but wouldn't say these are necessary pieces to do the route safely.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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BTW the Direct (5.8/5.9) now has a fixed pin at the crux. Protection was tricky but solid, it now has a bomber piton for those more dubious about thin pro. I have no idea who placed it but found it there last year. There's also a new fixed ring angle on the last pitch alternative (out right) up from Bushy Ledge on the East Wall.
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ryanentwistle
Trad climber
American Canyon, CA
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labrat: My comment was sort of tongue-in-cheek, I honestly didn't avoid the traverse on purpose, just never saw where I thought I was supposed to go over and ended up in sketchier territory protection-wise. Most likely would have been better WITH the traverse, I'll give you that, lol.
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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"I managed to avoid the traverse left-right on 2nd pitch"
Why? That's the best part of this climb.
Erik
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ryanentwistle
Trad climber
American Canyon, CA
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Much quicker/easier as 2-pitch, not much rope to spare with 60m rope, so use slings on gear to avoid drag. I managed to avoid the traverse left-right on 2nd pitch but only by going up the awkward 5.7 direct variation on smaller somewhat sketchy gear, so not sure I recommend it. I think this was my 2nd multi-pitch lead when I did it.
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crasic
climber
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Did this route first weekend of June 2012.
Overall Impression: Loose rock, and a little run out in the variation I did. Deceptive, more difficult than other similarly rated climbs in the leap. Two stars, for the variation I did, but three stars if you follow the official topo, as the book says- follow it closely as its easy to go off route.
1st pitch: Easy climbing, basically exposed scrambling, easy to run out the first 5.2 section, but make sure to place something early or there is a long tumble waiting for you if you slip.
2nd pitch: Climb up from the belay and traversed left across on the obvious fissure. Traverse wasn't too complicated or scary. Watch out for rock marked with chalk x's, these will pull out. I accidentally missed the traverse back right to the second belay, ended up continuing up the 5.7 "face/stem variation" and traversing right underneath the small roof to belay on a ledge about 10m above the second belay station (about 5ft above the top of the stacked blocks and just underneath the giant blocks at the top). Would not recommend - very loose, hollow, and dirty rock, terrible placements, mostly small.
The alternative belay was good though, bomber placements. Makes pitch 3 rather simple and short, potentially a good variation to keep pitch 1 and 3 easy to train new leaders.
Pitch 3: Short and easy with this variation, top out belay from the tree at the top, easy peasy.
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nate2655
Trad climber
gardnerville, nevada
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Did deception on 6/22/11.... was an ok climb, did every variation on it just about. Can be done in 2 pitches, just put slings on every peice,or your rope drag will be a bitc*.
break down
P1: if you want less rope drag only need one peice on the staircase walk-up put a double sling on it then climb up onto the ledge you can belay from here if you want to make the climb 3 pitches with the last pitch only being 20 or 30 feet or keep climbing up to a nice flake stance about 10' low and right were the 3x3 flake that came off. for the anchor use a #13 stopper #3 cam and a #.75 or #1 cam
pic of the first belay station
P2:if you want to keep the route 5.6 go left or if you want to work on somthing just a little harder go right up the large flake to a 5.7+ finger crack place pro shallow or you might lose it, so to keep it from walking in by putting a long sling on it. after the finger crack go left to the normal crack and follow it up. also about 50' from the top there some fun but run out 5.7 face moves on nice dike,after the face moves go back right were you will get you first piece after the face moves. from here go to the top to a nice 10x10 ledge for your belay.
top out anchor
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OrganicByte
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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A flake on the second pitch has broken off making the climb a bit easier. The flake was on the second pitch in the section described in SuperTopo as the "tricky 5.6 traverse left".
Previously, you could get some finger underclings under the flake as you reach across. A piece of the flake about 3x3 has broken off exposing the wider crack underneath making the traverse a little easier. A photo has been posted on the route photo section.
I've climbed this route several times over the past few years and the wide crack in this section may be getting wider. Going from memory, the crack seems wider than it was in the past. The coloration of rock within the crack also seems to indicate widening. If so, several large piece of rock on this section could be moving.
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Matlogg
Trad climber
sacramento, CA
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When climbing Harvey's Center on 6.25.08, I noticed a piece of a slab perched perpendicular to the wall. I have never seen that before and don't remember that last year when I did that route. This one should be carefully removed.
Early summer in 2007, during a warm up on Knapsack, we witnessed the 2nd of a 3 person team knock one of those loose car-hood-sized slabs off. The 3rd dove right and was clear. The slab exploded on impact near him and showered those on the ground below. No one was injured as they dove behind the tree.
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Travellinjack
climber
Napa, CA
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My friend and I climbed this yesterday. Really fun climb. I left a number 8 or 9 nut on the second pitch...it's stuck pretty good. If you can get it out it's yours.
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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first time did it 3 pitches (the green)
after that i just did it 2 pitches. (red)
it's just possible with a 60m rope
[Click to View Linked Image]
we skipped the first 5.6 crack left cause of a very loose block [there were ppl below us.. didn't want it falling on them] so the pic above shows the 5.8 variation after the REALLY BIG flake
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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For a 5.6 this is a great route. I've done it 3 times in the last 2 weeks. It's a great route!
I've heard this route done in 3-4 pitches...
PLEASE save yourself the trouble and climb it in just 2 pitches if you have a 60m rope.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Followed this route yesterday.
The stuck cam was still there, and looked kind of mangled.
The flake noted a couple of posts below with the new crack through it is apparently detached and unstable - beware ! It's just above and to the left of the stuck cam.
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Chugar
Trad climber
Mariposa, CA
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Nice enjoyable climb. Got a Trango cam stuck just before the alternate belay (to complete in two pitches). If anyone can get it and would return it, I'd be very grateful! Else enjoy the booty!
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Evdawg,
Pretty much the gear is your standard leap rack. Yellow alien to #3, one set of small to large stoppers. The route is generally pretty forgiving as to gear selection, so bring what you've got and you'll be fine.
Be warned that like much of Hogsback there are sections of less than stellar rock. You'll encounter chunks of secure, though unattached rock on the route.
Start the route at the small but stout tree that is easily scrambled to. Starting lower can result in short roping the leader.
The old guidebook shows the first belay at the top of the cruddy 4th class section. I've yet to find much solid stuff to belay in there. I continue on to a decent but small ledge another 50' higher, into some of the real 5th class climbing. There are runouts greater than 8', but nothing scary. Knock on things to make sure they are solid before you yard on them or put gear behind them. For example there is a sucker hold on the 4th class section that is cemented in place with moss (may be gone by now). Just know what you are yarding on.
With a 60m you can topout in just one more pitch. There will be zero communications from the top, so plan your rope signals in advance, and extend the belay back over to where you can WTF is going on.
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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what size and quantitiy of gear is used for this climb?
are there runnouts more than 8 feet?
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harmonydoc
Trad climber
Rohnert Park, CA
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Did this route yesterday, let the middle pitch, my second lead. Didn't find it too scary, enough decent stances for me to fiddle around with my placements. Some very loose rock, though, watch out. The most intimidating part is the traverse right at the top of the second pitch, but there is a little edge there for your feet and there were only about 2 or 3 steps without much for your hands. A fun climb (and a popular one, there were a lot of people on it).
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highminded
Mountain climber
Forks, Washington
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This is a nice step up from Knapsack. The first pitch is easy and a good tutorial for new leaders. Begin moving in a gradual diagonal left as soon as you start seeing the ledge system develop on top of the book (this will help minimize rope drag). If you're climbing with a 60m rope, you can go about 15-feet higher than the belay ledge marked at the top of P1 in the topo and belay from a pod made up by several blocks (the blocks are shown on the topo). I had trouble finding nice anchors on the ledge, so I went a bit higher and found the pod nicely protected. If you do this, be sure to use long slings on any pro you place between the ledge and the pod -- or just climb up to the pod without placing pro (a little run-out, true, but it's pretty much a staircase). The blocks that make up the pod provide totally bomber pro: there's a place to girth-hitch a long sling around the block at the top of the pod and there are two places to thread a hex sling behind blocks on the right of the pod. It's a reasonably comfortable, semi-standing belay.
On Pitch 2, watch out when placing pro beneath the large flake at the beginning of the pitch -- there's a big crack starting through it. Long runners are especially important on P2, since it wanders left, then back right. The slabby right-traverse at the top of P2 is mentally intimidating, but not too bad if you've got nice smearing shoes on and trust your feet.
After you do the traverse, work your way up the book to the block directly above and belay your second from there. Any higher and you'll get too much rope drag.
The third pitch is short, blocky and easily protected.
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ttoshi
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Definitely a fun climb--must do if on Hogsback! First pitch is trivial. Second pitch is wandering and the best. Great topo. Beware of rope drag. I used 2 ft slings on all pieces, but maybe 4 footers would have been good on a couple. The traverse is low angle and not bad as long as you trust your feet. I did this climb leading up 2 others, and it was great because the belays had plenty of space on the ledges.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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steel
Intermediate climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Try Pip's Pillar Left Side(5.8). This is to the right of Deception and left of the large pine tree. 2-3 pitches of flakes, 1" hands, edging crux on miniscule knobs and several easy bulges at the top of Hogsback. Diversified climbing that was lots of fun for "Psycho Monkey" and myself.
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Nathan
Intermediate climber
Mill Valley, CA
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This climb lives up to it's name. I wouldn't recomend it to a new leader. My partner who's solid at 5.9 had a hard time comitting to the traverse on the 2nd pitch. Small pro at your feet with low angle, smearing, slab moves. Watch out for loose flakes, alot of them are spooky.
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The route as seen from Highway 50.Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
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